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mattm
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Jun 16, 2018
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TX
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,885
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Sam Wilson
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Jun 16, 2018
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Asheville, NC
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 105
The scarpa vapor lace may be a good alternative. I have a similar foot shape (narrow heel, wider toes) and wear the instinct VSR, and I’ve met a few instinct wearers who also love the fit of the vapor lace. They’re also not too pricey
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Mike McL
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Jun 16, 2018
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South Lake Tahoe
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 2,090
yeah try the Vapor lace. It's less pointy than the Miura, flat, and very versatile. It performs well but is still very comfortable for the amount of performance. It can edge well, smear way better than a super downturned shoe, and it holds its own in cracks. Not the same as a TC Pro in cracks but it holds up to some jamming. I like it as a face climbing shoe for granite. I've been using it along with my TC Pros as a 2 shoe quiver for granite.
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mattm
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Jun 18, 2018
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TX
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,885
Thanks guys. These were off my radar for some reason but look to be exactly what I’m looking for. I have a 45.5 inbound now. Will report back. Cheers
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Paul Dlug
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Jun 18, 2018
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Bend, OR
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 35
I had a similar experience with the Maestro Low. For me the width was great but my toes too curled up and pushing uncomfortably against the rubber in my regular Scarpa size but if I sized up I ended up with too much flex in the toes and a very baggy heel. It's a shame because as you said the shoe is so close, it just has such an odd fit. I had used the Vapor Lace a while ago and found it was great initially but quickly became too soft and loose. I'm sticking with the TC Pro and Katana Lace.
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Doug Chism
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Jun 18, 2018
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Arlington VA
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 55
You all might want to see consider the 5.10 Quantum Lace, 1/2 down from street size. I have the same wide duck feet narrow heel and it's a great match.
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ShanJ2me
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Jun 18, 2018
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Black Hills, SD
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,145
The Miura was my go to shoe for everything until Black Diamond got into the game. The Aspect is now my favorite shoe! Street shoe size for all day comfort, 1/2 size down for single pitch hard granite cragging. I still love my Miuras for limestone and dolomite pockets , but for cracks , slabs and edging the Aspects are the $%#t!!
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Nick Drake
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Jun 20, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
Mike McKinnon wrote: I used to swear by my vapor lace on everything but have slowly transitioned over to the boostic on hard granite face climbing and a large boostic for crack climbing. I have not tried it on slab but I use a pair of old instinct slippers for slab. Look at the boostic it is not that miuch more aggressive than the vapor and edges like no other shoe I have climbed in. Don't the boostics knuckle your big toe up fairly aggressively? I've only tried on the booster S, but I thought the last was similar.
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Ben Kraft
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Jun 20, 2018
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Mammoth
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 99
Nick Drake wrote: Don't the boostics knuckle your big toe up fairly aggressively? I've only tried on the booster S, but I thought the last was similar. I'm not mike but I have a looser-fit pair of Boostics and yes the shape of the shoe somehow forces my big toe to knuckle. Painful in cracks for me.
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Nick Drake
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Jun 21, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
Mike McKinnon wrote: hmm I dont get that knuckling that you talk about. Mine are super comfortable on my feet and I could leave them on for extended periods if I needed to. Do you have a significant mortons toe?
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Tim Parkin
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Dec 5, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
I ended up with a pair of Maestro's myself after trying on 14 pairs of shoes in Keswick last month. My previous shoes were the Scarpa Helix, just like you, and I found them incredibly comfy. The Maestro's were the best by far of everything I tried though. I don't tend to knuckle my toes and hence have a slightly larger fit but I did get them so they were slightly tight on my toe (I have one foot larger than the other by about a half size, the larger one fitted tight but not painful - I could wear and walk around the shop without problem. The other, smaller, foot was quite tight and I had to remove it after about 3 or 4 minutes. However, once I got them home and kept wearing them for a while, I did get a little stretch but not quite enough. Then I bought some shoes stretchers and managed to make space for my big toe. Now I can wear them for most of a session, taking them off for a few minutes here and there when I have a rest or belay (I don't have to do this but it certainly feels nice!).
The only slack I have in the Maestro is above the toes, which I presume is the space provided for people who want to knuckle their toes.
My feet are quite narrow, long and completely flat and a prominent big toe.
I have to say I love the Maestro's now although they do fart occasionally (I take this to mean they are fitting particularly well most of the time?)
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Nick Drake
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Dec 7, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
Farts mean dead space, it's not a good fit.
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Tim Parkin
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Oct 29, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
Tim Parkin wrote: I ended up with a pair of Maestro's myself after trying on 14 pairs of shoes in Keswick last month. My previous shoes were the Scarpa Helix, just like you, and I found them incredibly comfy. The Maestro's were the best by far of everything I tried though. I don't tend to knuckle my toes and hence have a slightly larger fit but I did get them so they were slightly tight on my toe (I have one foot larger than the other by about a half size, the larger one fitted tight but not painful - I could wear and walk around the shop without problem. The other, smaller, foot was quite tight and I had to remove it after about 3 or 4 minutes. However, once I got them home and kept wearing them for a while, I did get a little stretch but not quite enough. Then I bought some shoes stretchers and managed to make space for my big toe. Now I can wear them for most of a session, taking them off for a few minutes here and there when I have a rest or belay (I don't have to do this but it certainly feels nice!).
The only slack I have in the Maestro is above the toes, which I presume is the space provided for people who want to knuckle their toes.
My feet are quite narrow, long and completely flat and a prominent big toe.
I have to say I love the Maestro's now although they do fart occasionally (I take this to mean they are fitting particularly well most of the time?) I've since bought a second pair of mid's to complement them as I loved them so much. The farting stopped after a while (as the shoe conformed to my feet). The mids also didn't have as much space above the toe so they fit even better. Very, very happy with them and the second pair fit slightly better once new (or my feet are less sensitive now)
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