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John C
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Jun 5, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 1
Hi everyone,
I've been searching for this topic and haven't been able to come across anything. Please let me know if I'm an idiot and link me to the page if there is. I'm just getting into outdoor crack climbing and one thing that I've been thinking about is with crack climbing, the chance of the rope going behind the leg goes up exponentially right? I think about how you're always going to need to step over the rope with your feet since you're climbing on the same crack/direction that you put placement in and could flip over when falling. Please let me know any safety protocols/things to think about with this topic that I should know. As we all know, rope behind the leg and falling is a recipe for disaster and any way to mitigate that would be great (besides avoiding crack climbing altogether because crack climbing is awesome!).
Thanks in advance.
Edited: terminology for 'rope behind leg'
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Marc801 C
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Jun 5, 2018
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
John C wrote: Hi everyone,
I've been searching for this topic and haven't been able to come across anything. Please let me know if I'm an idiot and link me to the page if there is. I'm just getting into outdoor crack climbing and one thing that I've been thinking about is with crack climbing, the chance of backstepping goes up exponentially right? I think about how you're always going to need to step over the rope since you're climbing on the same crack/direction that you put placement in. Please let me know any safety protocols/things to think about with this topic that I should know. As we all know, backstepping and falling is a recipe for disaster and any way to mitigate that would be great (besides avoiding crack climbing altogether because crack climbing is awesome!).
Thanks in advance. "Chance of" backstepping on a crack??? Don't know that I've ever seen that as every backstep I've done or seen has been intentional. Maybe clarify how you're using "backstepping"?
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James Schroeder
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Jun 5, 2018
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 3,171
Marc and mountainhick-
There's been a trend these days of misusing the term "backstepping" to refer to getting the rope behind one's leg. I agree that this usage is wrong, and that correct usage of "backstepping" is as a name for the process of placing one's hip against the wall and combining a front-foot inside edge with a back-foot (often high) outside edge. Unfortunately this modern misuse is reportedly being perpetuated by gym staff in some locations.
Imagine that, the twenty-two year old gym employee taught by a twenty-three year old gym employee has no idea what he or she is talking about...
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Colonel Mustard
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Jun 5, 2018
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Rope behind foot?
Some ways to mitigate:
Sling the pro so the rope can swing out of the way
Don’t place much pro, bro
Make sure your heels clear the rope
Really, I don’t worry that much more about hamburger flipping when I’m crack climbing except minding the rope runs inside the heels. More often the problem is pinching your rope with your feet.
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Lena chita
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Jun 5, 2018
·
OH
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 1,757
John C wrote: Hi everyone,
I've been searching for this topic and haven't been able to come across anything. Please let me know if I'm an idiot and link me to the page if there is. I'm just getting into outdoor crack climbing and one thing that I've been thinking about is with crack climbing, the chance of backstepping goes up exponentially right? I think about how you're always going to need to step over the rope since you're climbing on the same crack/direction that you put placement in. Please let me know any safety protocols/things to think about with this topic that I should know. As we all know, backstepping and falling is a recipe for disaster and any way to mitigate that would be great (besides avoiding crack climbing altogether because crack climbing is awesome!).
Thanks in advance. I think you are using "backstepping" to mean " getting your rope behind your leg". Backstepping is actually a climbing move, where you use the outside edge of your climbing shoe, and turn the hip to the wall.
As to rope management, keep the rope to one side, not between your legs.
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Petsfed 00
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Jun 5, 2018
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Snohomish, WA
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 989
Lena chita wrote: As to rope management, keep the rope to one side, not between your legs. And be prepared for that side to change early and often
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Lena chita
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Jun 5, 2018
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OH
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 1,757
Petsfed wrote: And be prepared for that side to change early and often True.
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Hamilton Kibbe
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Jun 5, 2018
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Somerville, MA
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 72
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budman
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Jun 5, 2018
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Moab,UT
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 11
Backstepping? Isn't that a dance move?
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nathanael
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Jun 5, 2018
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San Diego
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 525
As you start leading crack climbs you may find that yes, the rope gets in the way, you step on it, in front of it, behind it, pinch it in the crack, etc. Causes a hassle. But with a little mileage you get used to dealing with it, sometimes you need to pull it to the side with your hand, or nudge it with your knee or toe before making a move, or other little techniques that don't really warrant a description or even much thought, but are what make the difference between struggling with the rope and almost not thinking about it. Just be careful and thoughtful while starting out, and before long it will feel natural.
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Colonel Mustard
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Jun 5, 2018
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Also, allow me to be the nth person to derp out on an improper term when I knew what you meant.
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John C
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Jun 5, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 1
Sorry for any confusion, edited the wording in my post. Now I need to know, what exactly is a belayer supposed to yell out when the climber has rope behind the leg while climbing? 'Rope behind leg'?
Also, thank you for those who responded with sound advice, I definitely learned a lot from this post.
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Trad Princess
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Jun 5, 2018
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Not That Into Climbing
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 1,175
This would nerver happen at mound woodsen
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Evan C
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Jun 5, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 326
John C wrote: Now I need to know, what exactly is a belayer supposed to yell out when the climber has rope behind the leg while climbing? 'Rope behind leg'? Something like 'bad foot' or 'watch the rope' is what I usually go with
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Case
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Jun 5, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 0
Avoid letting the rope hang straight down from your harness between your legs when possible and if you do try to keep it in front of your ankles as you climb. I will often place it to the side (over the top of my leg), which way the dihedral faces and which way you are leaning can matter which side you choose. I also say watch your leg when appropriate as a belayer.
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Sam Sala
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Jun 5, 2018
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Denver, CO
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 82
John Wilder wrote: "Watch your leg" is the general term I've used for the last 16 years or so. This.
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James Schroeder
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Jun 5, 2018
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 3,171
“The rope’s behind your leg.”
“Watch your leg.”
“When you get a chance; fix that rope around your leg.”
“If you’re going to keep doing that with your leg and the rope; I’m going to take you off belay.”
Just some thoughts.
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James Schroeder
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Jun 5, 2018
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 3,171
Only, Locals wrote: This would nerver happen at mound woodsen I feel like there should be a certification card for locals we can hang off our harnesses. Like: “Braj, I’m a local, not here, but back home. If I lived here; I’d totally be a local.”
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Trad Princess
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Jun 5, 2018
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Not That Into Climbing
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 1,175
James Schroeder wrote: I feel like there should be a certification card for locals we can hang off our harnesses. Like: “Braj, I’m a local, not here, but back home. If I lived here; I’d totally be a local.” Great idea. As far as how to handle the rope behind the leg, I usually fight the person.
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Nick Drake
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Jun 5, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
I think the rope management between the feet becomes the most difficult on cracks that are overhanging. You have to drop your hips out slightly to move the next foot and so the rope comes out with you, trying to toe flick to always keep the rope in front of your shin is a royal PITA (and good way to pump off). It's best to just pick a side of the hip to keep the rope on so that you're only having to deal with that toe flick on one side. If you're in a corner make it the hip that would be into the wall if you need to go into a layback.
Great examples of rope behind the foot on a steep crack abound: mountainproject.com/route/1…;query=rattlet&search=1&type=route
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Colonel Mustard
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Jun 5, 2018
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
A wandering band of nomadic locals set fire to their own pubes in protest of sand bagging below the crag warmup while a scared and somewhat strange man managed to burger flip himself with a bit of rope buggery.
“By gum!” Colonel Mustard muttered to himself. “I do believe there’s some sort of game afoot!”
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