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Speed climbing is stupid and dangerous.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
GDavis wrote:

If it's a race, probably not. If you are like me and run very far solo into the back country, absolutely you can die. 15 miles out is a terrible place to break an ankle.


#stopspeedrunning

#runnerspraydown

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

New record on the Nose... 2:01:50! 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I am just waiting for them to invent a pair of Spock's boots... I will have the fastest nose speed run time with them. Not like they are free climbing it so they would count as long as I am touching the wall the entire time right?

J Squared · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

you might say... speed climbing is a slippery slope mentality.

speeding a bigwall in a day to avoid having to porta/bivy is like running laps around the Guggenheim just to say you saw all the art in one visit.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Stole this from a different thread:

"Speed climbing is like making love and seeing how fast you can do it."

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote: Stole this from a different thread:

"Speed climbing is like making love and seeing how fast you can do it."

Naw I would say it is more like the rush of running from the cops if you have ever done that... used to get chased by the cops for riding bikes where we weren't suppose to growing up. One of the businesses that used to call the cops on us for using a hill in their parking lot as a quarter pike ended up leveling the hill after a while. It was alot of fun having the cops try to chase us because we could get through the woods way faster than they ever could.

Bill Flaherty · · San Diego, CA · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 205
Ted Pinson wrote:

I get it if you’re talking about NIAD and linking/running out pitches outside, but running up and down an autobelay is about the safest form of climbing you can do.

So when is someone going to carry a 3000' autobelay up El Cap and set the top rope speed record?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Bill Flaherty wrote:

So when is someone going to carry a 3000' autobelay up El Cap and set the top rope speed record?

As soon as I can get a rope company to sponsor me and cut a 6500' rope I will be going for it!

Jason Eberhard · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 111
Danny · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 135
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
J Squared wrote: you might say... speed climbing is a slippery slope mentality.

speeding a bigwall in a day to avoid having to porta/bivy is like running laps around the Guggenheim just to say you saw all the art in one visit.

Yeah, because standing in aiders and hauling just gets you SOOOOO much more connected to the rock, man.

cragmantoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 175

https://www.outsideonline.com/2314826/should-we-reconsider-speed-climbing

J Squared · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Bill Flaherty wrote:

So when is someone going to carry a 3000' autobelay up El Cap and set the top rope speed record?

it's almost been done ;) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bos_FCt4sxg 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
cragmantoo wrote: outsideonline.com/2314826/s…

I've just been informed that Outside Magazine has plagiarized The Tradiban. How did we end up here?!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516
Tradiban wrote:

I've just been informed that Outside Magazine has plagiarized The Tradiban. How did we end up here?!

And they didn't even quote you. The nerve of those people!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Tradiban. You know that the ability to climb really fast can help you survive in the big outdoors- I know you know that too. 

But I do think the whole “timekeeping” record braking  is dick measuring.

This latest tragedy- I believe- was not people going for time, but rather, it was just the way these boys climbed - all the time everyday.

RIP

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
cragmantoo wrote: outsideonline.com/2314826/s…

I really like how the article poses the question: "Has speed climbing gotten too deadly?" implying that there is an acceptable level of deadliness.

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20
Nate Tastic wrote:

I often wonder the same thing about driving to and from work, "has driving to and from work gotten too deadly?" I think it has. Let's go speed climbing instead!

Agreed.

Darrell Cornick · · Salem, OR · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5
Pnelson wrote:

Yeah, because standing in aiders and hauling just gets you SOOOOO much more connected to the rock, man.

No, but sort of. Cocktails on a portaledge taste really good and you have a sunset to appreciate and let the absurdity of big wall climbing sink in. 

As for speed climbing. In the article John Long was more thoughtful and succinct than anyone on  M proj.   
Darrell Cornick · · Salem, OR · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5
Rob T wrote:

They taste even better at the top of the wall, sunset is usually nicer up there as well. 

The best part, though, is increasing the percentage of time spent climbing vs vertical backpacking.  

No man. Portaledge camps are the best. Aid climbing is not aesthetically beautiful like free moves. I do it mostly for the camping. It also makes a great date night if your gf is into it. To do anything on El cap in a day requires a huge increase in risk. That’s what the discussion to this poorly titled thread is about. 

 Doesn’t matter though.  If your speed climbing you won’t bring proper cocktails on the route. You will likely be barely ok/low on water when you top out and will book it for the valley floor before it gets dark. Moving fast is great. Backpacking is great too. What’s wrong with backpacking? Vertical or horizontal? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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