Castle Peak Bouldering Conditions

I checked the Boreal webcams and a few other cams for the areas and noticed a lot of snow still on the ground- the rock is probably dry but will the surrounding parts be pretty covered still?

Up here on Donner Summit almost everything south facing below 7,500 is melted out, north aspects are retaining snow well. Castle peak looks in similar shape from here, but i haven't been to the bouldering area so not sure of the specifics. 

By "melted out" do you mean bare ground, or super soggy/muddy?

I haven't been to the bouldering areas at CP but could skin from the trailhead to the summit if that helps at all. Still plenty of snow on the ground. That was our experience over the weekend. 

Thanks! Sounds like I might need to wait then.

Any updates on the conditions? Hoping to go take a friend to see the nose

Totally dry now, good to go.

Gate isn't open. Trails are not well traveled yet. BUT, everything is fine but it might be hard to find things if you don't know the area use GPS coordinates.

Went up two weeks ago, yeah, super fun. When does that gate open? Probably once it gets buggy, huh?

Is the gate still open?

Gate was open 1/1/18.

Can anyone tell me if these boulders are accessible currently? Thank you!

Probably not unless you got snowshoes or backcountry skiis. What I do is check the traffic cams: cwwp2.dot.ca.gov/vm/iframem… The ones at the pass show snow still covering the ground.... 

The gate doesnt usually open until June, but who knows with this year.

I'm just going to give this thread a bump, would it be possible to head up there this weekend?  I was considering going tomorrow but based on the CCTV, it looks like there was a bit more snow.  Can anyone confirm if its possible to get up there without snowshoes?  

Without snowshoes? No. There's quite a bit more snow above 7000' than there is at lake level or in Truckee.

Split Rock/Donner Memorial State Park is probably fine. D.L. Bliss could be dry-ish. Grouse Slab boulders might be dry as well, although there would likely be some post-holing involved to get to them.

Look up Stress Management boulders - those could be another option. Never been personally.

Lurker wrote: Without snowshoes? No. There's quite a bit more snow above 7000' than there is at lake level or in Truckee.

Split Rock/Donner Memorial State Park is probably fine. D.L. Bliss could be dry-ish. Grouse Slab boulders might be dry as well, although there would likely be some post-holing involved to get to them.

Look up Stress Management boulders - those could be another option. Never been personally.

That's what I was thinking, it looked a bit clearer earlier this week but, after checking the cams again it looked a bit snowed out.  Shame, the temps are perfect.

I'm most likely going to end up going to Bliss or something like that, thanks for the tip, I really appreciate it.

Bliss is garbage as is Pie Shop. Rainbow might be good and the Highway 20 stuff is open. 

Karl Walters wrote: Bliss is garbage as is Pie Shop. Rainbow might be good and the Highway 20 stuff is open. 

Garbage in terms of conditions or climbing?  Thanks for the tip about highway 20 though.

Bouldiban TK wrote:

I assume that Karl is referring to the relatively lower rock quality at both of those crags. Personally I wouldn't call the areas (I have never climbed at Bliss, tho, tbh), "garbage" there are some classic lines at both places, but it is more grainy, harder on your skin and brittle then most other areas I've been to in Tahoe. The Pie Shop is certainly the worst quality of rock that I have climbed on in Tahoe, but I would also say its only slightly worse then the buttermilks. But it is also very variable--the boulder that has amercian gladiator on it is of the highest quality, but even the well traveled, Pimp Juice, 100 yards from it has holds breaking routinely on the bottom sections. For me, living in Reno, Bliss is just a longer drive, so I haven't been there, yet. If there is a problem at either that your psyched on, go for it. 

I really think that snowshoes are the way to go as when you get to the crags the landings are more flat and the falls not as far and the snow keeps the boulders in primo temps. 

Honestly, I'd totally go if I had snow shoes.  I live in the bay so, I don't have quite as much of a need for them here.  Though, now that I'm back in the state (went to TX for school), I might invest in some since I go climbing almost every weekend and Tahoe is my favorite place.  

Thanks for the insight into the areas, I can't say I'm a huge fan of crumbling granite though, Pimp Juice is something I've wanted to hop on for a second.  Any areas with higher quality rock that you'd recommend?  

I have all the guidebooks but, I'm still working on exploring different areas of Tahoe.  Thus far, I've done the Saddle Boulders, White Lines Area, Girls on Film Area, Rainbow, The Emeralds and Castle Peak.

Bouldiban TK wrote:

Pimp juice is mega and definitely worth it: reddit.com/r/bouldering/com…;

Woodfords is dry and in good shape. I thick summit lake has some classics as well--Purple sticky punch and tequila sunset are mega as well. Boreal has maximum overdrive and campfire arete sit--both classics and you can also stand under Outer Limits for inspiration. Summit lake and Boreal will need snowshoes. Lover's Leap is likely good and closer to the bay. If its lake level or below then its likely dry. 

Yeah, it looks fucking amazing.  I didn't realize the slab was the hardest part of the climb though it isn't surprising at all.  Looks super fun.  

Thanks for the tips, definitely going to do some digging in my guidebook before figuring out where to go.