High Sierra Alpine Conditions

Hey all, I was wondering what snow levels look like around some of the high passes and peaks if anyone has information and photos! Thinking of doing North Arete of Bear Creek Spire or North Buttress of Mt Goode here soon, thanks!

Lots of snow around Bear Creek Spire as of yesterday. Snow line starts around 11,000’. Hard snow in the morning and gets really soft around noon. Skis or snow shoes would be helpful.

Looking at Abbot, Petite Griffon and Mills. Just north of Bear Creek Spire. This photo is taken around 12,000’.

• Above photo taken last Friday. We couldn’t quite make our hike to Ruby Lake. Hit a bunch of snow at 11k and started postholing. But it’s heated up considerably since Memorial Day weekend, when there was some rain. 

Wow, LOTS of slide activity in Matt's Abbot photo.  

We were up by Mt Lyell last weekend (5/27). Can confirm the snow is pretty funky right now. My hunch is the extra late season snow hasn't gone through the usual number of consolidation cycles yet.

So both the postholing on the approach, and wet slides in steeper areas are big concerns.

We climbed up Lyell entirely on snow. Hit it very early morning, and kicked through maybe 6" of soft, new stuff to more solid layer below. But by the time we hit Maclure around 10 am, conditions were total garbage. It was prime wet slide time with the sun baking that east face. So we turned around.

Anyway, for what it's worth. Snow seems pretty funky above 11,000' now...especially looking at Matt's Abbot photo....jeez!

lots of slide debris around Maclure:

Does anyone know what the Young Lakes approach to the West Ridge of Conness is looking like right now? Was thinking of heading in this weekend, but am worried about epic postholing....

Ah, someone on Supertopo  said the ridge was clear. Paul, did you see the conditions recently? 

Marginally helpful - view from False White so one drainage over. Generally, it is pretty snow free up to 9,500 ft and above that really depends on aspect. I would think the west facing aspects should be relatively snow free but then you have to deal with a fair bit of snow on the descent.

I did North Peaks North Couloir this weekend and you could still ski it well but fairly icy in the center, the North ridge of Coness seemed to have a decent amount of snow still on it so I assume the West Ridge would be somewhat better but still snow covered. The approach would be snowy for sure

Does anyone have predictions for the Mt Connes/North Peak climbing/approach conditions around July 4?  I'll be visiting from the northeast and am trying to figure out footwear.  Mostly trying to figure out if I can use approach shoes or if there will be enough snow to warrant lightweight mountain boots (La Sportiva Trango Cubes).

doug342 wrote: Does anyone have predictions for the Mt Connes/North Peak climbing/approach conditions around July 4?  I'll be visiting from the northeast and am trying to figure out footwear.  Mostly trying to figure out if I can use approach shoes or if there will be enough snow to warrant lightweight mountain boots (La Sportiva Trango Cubes).

I predict approach shoes will be fine.

Anyone been up to the hulk yet?

Just hiked out from the Hulk this afternoon. There is a bit of snow on the approach but it's no big deal. The snow is firm in the am and very soft in the afternoon but it won't stop anybody. Plenty of flowing water for drinking on the approach and around camp. 

Climbed Red Dihedral yesterday. There is a bit of snow on the ridge along the 3rd class traverse. We topped out via the .10a corner that is on the Croft topo with very minimal post holing. We heard from the party behind us that the regular .8 chimney was very wet but they got through it.  

There is also a moderate amount of snow in the decent gulley to the lookers right of the formation. We descended it yesterday afternoon by kicking steps in the slush. NBD. This snow is also probably firm in the am but it's unlikely you would be descending early enough for it to still be firm.

Basically, the Hulk is good to go for the year. You don't need tools or crampons but you will probably get your socks wet at some point.

Enjoy and please be kind to the fragile alpine environment surrounding this amazing piece of granite.

doug342 wrote: Does anyone have predictions for the Mt Connes/North Peak climbing/approach conditions around July 4?  I'll be visiting from the northeast and am trying to figure out footwear.  Mostly trying to figure out if I can use approach shoes or if there will be enough snow to warrant lightweight mountain boots (La Sportiva Trango Cubes).

Climbed Harding Route on Conness last August. Took the Saddlebag approach. Lots of snow that year too. There was a steep section of glacier that went for maybe 600 feet. It was icy in the morning but I was able kick foot holds in (5.10 camp 4's). A fall would have been bad. I kept a nut tool in my hand as fall arrestor. My guess is it might be better this year. 

some quick updates after spending a week on the eastside.

Trail from Horseshoe Meadows to Langley is great and mostly dry, only a little snow at very top of new army pass.  

Waterfall route on Emerson is good to go.  Route is dry but still have to negotiate a bit of snow at the top of the gully.

Hiked up to Treasure lakes by Hurd. Only a little bit of snow left on the trail to the lakes.  Some snow patches on Hurd.  Didn't feel like slogging up the west side so it turned into a trail hike.

West ridge of Conness looked good from Fairview dome, not sure about the approach/descent but would expect some snow.

Overall, lots of snow still up high.

If you're looking for climbing snow/ice couloirs, many high elevations lines like Gilbert and Lamarck appear to be in good condition.

Views from Emerson on 6.8.18

I was planning on doing the West Chute of Cloudripper in 2 weeks time, any info on whether the chute will still be full of snow would be much appreciated.  Otherwise I'll report back in 2 weeks with my own update!

The Northwest Slope of Mount Agassiz. Did this yesterday (6/11). Hit snow about half way up the switch backs up to the top of the pass. The snow is melting fast.

Any word on Mount Ritter? 

Well, the Reds Meadow Valley road is still closed.