Good edging shoe with velcro closure?

I've been using my Anasazi VCS quite a bit lately and happy with them for a lot of the "smedging" I seem to encounter in the Gunks. But yesterday I was at a different area (Shelving Rock) that had more normal edging and they didn't feel that great, so I threw on the TC Pros I'd brought in case we ended up on a crack climb and was really digging the TC's edging on vertical face terrain. However, one reason I've been using the Anasazi VCS is that they're just so much quicker on and off with the velcro. Any suggestions on shoes with more of the TC's stiffness, but with a velcro closure? Sportiva fits me very well in general. I don't much care for or need (or maybe just haven't figured out how to use?) a really aggressive downturned shoe.

Sportiva + Velcro + Stiffness reminds me of Miura VS 

Isaac Wong wrote: Sportiva + Velcro + Stiffness reminds me of Miura VS 

Thanks Isaac. Do you have experience with them/like them? 

Scarpa Boostic, stiffer than TC Pro. Sportiva Otaki is also good if you want a fairly flat last. Both have very asymmetric last so they fit differently than TC Pro.

Miura VS is the obvious choice.  Probably one of the best edging shoes you can get.

Ted Pinson wrote: Miura VS is the obvious choice.  Probably one of the best edging shoes you can get.

I'm worried that I won't like how downturned they are, I have the Katana lace which seems pretty similarly aggressive, and at least so far I haven't been able to get used to them, even though (I think) they fit perfectly. The Otaki looked like maybe a compromise? Or the Scarpa Vapor V? 

Eh, they actually flatten out rather quickly.  It also comes in handy for big reaches, as it at least feels like you get a little bit more from standing on your toes.  If you’re coming from Anasazis, they’ll feel like climbing on cement blocks, but they definitely do stand on tiny edges very well.  You might also want to check out the new Anasazi Pro...supposed to have a lot more heel tension and aggressive fit compared to the classic tan, so I’d imagine they would edge well.

Miura VS is an awesome edging shoe.  Otaki is al little less aggressive, might be that compromise you're looking for.  I've used the Miura VS quite a bit.  I've only tried on the Otaki.  

Fit might determine it it more than anything.  Miura VS fits me well.  I can't fit the Otaki as well as I'd like.  

Vapor V is my gym shoe.  While it's a good all round shoe, it's not nearly the edging shoe that the Miura VS is.

Boostic for days.  A rare combination of very stiff forefoot and aggressive downturn.  I have the Miura VS too (definitely good shoes), but the Boostics are the send shoe for hard, edgy routes, every time.  You'll forget you have them on until the moment you clip the chains, at which time you'll want to get them off your feet ASAP...

EDIT:  While Boostics are indeed amazing, after rereading your original post and checking your profile, I think the Otaki, Instinct VS, or Miura VS would serve you better.  All quality shoes.

Mark Paulson wrote: Boostic for days.  A rare combination of very stiff forefoot and aggressive downturn.  I have the Miura VS too (definitely good shoes), but the Boostics are the send shoe for hard, edgy routes, every time.  You'll forget you have them on until the moment you clip the chains, at which time you'll want to get them off your feet ASAP...

EDIT:  While Boostics are indeed amazing, after rereading your original post and checking your profile, I think the Otaki, Instinct VS, or Miura VS would serve you better.  All quality shoes.

Thanks Mark. Just to clarify was your edit based on the climbing I'm doing being suited to a less aggressive shoe? 

If you like the Anasazi VCS, try the Anasazi Pro (it's stiffer).
Miura VS would be great, not as downturned as it's marketed to be.
Otaki is even stiffer than the Miura VS but it definitely is downturned. It can be comfortable if it fits your foot shape.

Miura vs is fantastic, great at edging and a amazing heel the only think it can't do is crack climbing(unless tips crack) and toe hooking.
This being said if you are willing to sacrifice some edging performance for crack performance the standard Miura is a good option, the laces imo take no longer than the velcro. 

Optimistic wrote:

Thanks Mark. Just to clarify was your edit based on the climbing I'm doing being suited to a less aggressive shoe? 

Well, if you sized them comfortably, Boostics might still be a good option, but sized aggressively, they really come into their own- there's just a definite pain/performance tradeoff that I don't consider worth it unless I'm working on hard (for me) stuff.  They also hold their shape and fit over time--great for performance, but even after multiple resoles my toes still can't really handle them as a daily driver.  However, my Miura VS's, while purchased tight, have become very comfortable over the years (two or three resoles), yet still perform pretty well.  My toes have gotten less resilient over the years, and I've had to cast the net farther and wider to find a general purpose shoe that fits well enough to wear like 70% of the time (currently Furias for bouldering, Simond Edges for ropes).  But Boostics are still my go-to RP shoe.  

If I were you, I'd try on as many of these shoes as possible, and go with the one that clicks best with your foot shape- brand and rubber type matter way less than straight out-of-the-box fit and comfort.

Scarpa Vapor
Scarpa Boostic
Sportiva Otaki
Sportiva Miura VS
Evolv Sharma
Evolv Luchador SC
Butora Narsha
5.10 Verdon VCS

Also, regular Miuras are cheap right now, have a very fast lacing system, edge very well, and are pretty much stellar all-around shoes.

caughtinside wrote: It seems like you already have an edging shoe you really like -the TC pro. It really doesn’t take that much longer to tie your shoes than to close with Velcro.

But the boostic and muira vs are both good choices, but they fit much differently than the TC pro

For whatever reason I find I have to fiddle with the laces on the TC a fair bit, both to get them on and off. I think maybe they are slightly too big, so I have to crank up the laces to compensate, and then loosen them again to get them off. So I guess it takes like a minute instead of 10 seconds.  Mighty comfy though! Maybe I should just get some smaller TC's? But I wouldn't mind getting a scooch closer to the sensitivity of the Anasazi, maybe that's the Anasazi Pro?  

I don't want to go with anything too aggressive I'm pretty sure.  The Katana Lace was my first foray down that road, and it hasn't gone well so far: I feel like I can stand on anything (except smears) and they're surprisingly comfortable, but they feel like ski boots as far as sensitivity goes. It's strange to say, but even though the Anasazi doesn't perform as well I like it better than the Katana because I can feel what the shoe is doing on the hold.  Talk about first world problems...

Mark Paulson wrote: Also, regular Miuras are cheap right now, have a very fast lacing system, edge very well, and are pretty much stellar all-around shoes.

Are the Miura and Miura VS otherwise identical?  My understanding is that this is not always the case (e.g. the Katana and Katana VS) 

No, they are very different shoes.  The Miura Lace starts out fairly aggressive but flattens and softens up rather quickly due to the lack of a P3.  It’s more of an all-a rounder than the VS, which is a much better edger.  I totally get your feeling about Anasazis; once you get used to that proprioception, everything else just feels clunky.

Also, the lacing system on the TC Pros sucks...definitely not designed to be an on/off shoe.  Of course, you can also wear them all day, so that’s why.  The Katana Laces are great, though...honestly, they take about as long as Velcros, so I’d just stick with those if I were you.  The Miura VS is maybe a tad better of an edger, but not by much.

I'll add the Evolv Supra to the list as well.  Stiff edging shoe with a velcro closure and slight down camber.  All the features you're looking for.
https://evolvsports.com/supra/

Ted Pinson wrote: No, they are very different shoes.  The Miura Lace starts out fairly aggressive but flattens and softens up rather quickly due to the lack of a P3.  It’s more of an all-a rounder than the VS, which is a much better edger.  I totally get your feeling about Anasazis; once you get used to that proprioception, everything else just feels clunky.

Also, the lacing system on the TC Pros sucks...definitely not designed to be an on/off shoe.  Of course, you can also wear them all day, so that’s why.  The Katana Laces are great, though...honestly, they take about as long as Velcros, so I’d just stick with those if I were you.  The Miura VS is maybe a tad better of an edger, but not by much.

Maybe I just haven't broken in the Katana enough? I've done I think about 20 to 30 gym routes and probably not more than 10 outdoor pitches in them, not noticing much in the way of break-in so far. By contrast, TC's were dialed in by the end of the first pitch! 

I think the verdon vcs might also be a good choice. When I tried them on they were far too stiff for me, but I liked the fit in them and I also like the anasazi vcs fit a lot

Ted Pinson wrote: No, they are very different shoes.  The Miura Lace starts out fairly aggressive but flattens and softens up rather quickly due to the lack of a P3.  It’s more of an all-a rounder than the VS, which is a much better edger.  I totally get your feeling about Anasazis; once you get used to that proprioception, everything else just feels clunky.

Also, the lacing system on the TC Pros sucks...definitely not designed to be an on/off shoe.  Of course, you can also wear them all day, so that’s why.  The Katana Laces are great, though...honestly, they take about as long as Velcros, so I’d just stick with those if I were you.  The Miura VS is maybe a tad better of an edger, but not by much.

No way, the TC Pro laces are fantastic.

To take them off, only the top 4 eyelets need to be loosened. To put them on, snug up each of those in order once, tie, and go. The whole process takes maybe 10 or 20 seconds longer than strapping in to the Miura VS, since that shoe is harder to get on in the first place. The only lace-up that ties faster is the Katana Lace / Kataki, but that comes at the cost of consistency (getting them right takes more fiddling). The laces on the Pink and Blanco are more adjustable but they take twice as long to tie. The Miura's laces are inferior in every way, easily the worst on the market.