NRG: recommended moderates and trip beta

Since you have small kids definitely check out the approach descriptions carefully, some of the ladders on the approaches are pretty rad! 

Optimistic wrote: Since you have small kids definitely check out the approach descriptions carefully, some of the ladders on the approaches are pretty rad! 

Yeah we were planning to rope em up for the ladders.  Any suggestions on easier routes I can put them on?

Wes C wrote:

Yeah we were planning to rope em up for the ladders.  Any suggestions on easier routes I can put them on?

It seemed like pretty slim pickins at the easier grades (I'm thinking like 5.2-5.4) down there, and my impression of the RRG is similar. Even the 6's we did at Sandstonia were reasonably thoughtful. But I'm by no means a local at either place, I'm sure others know better about that. You'd have much better luck up here in the Gunks! 

Wes C wrote: 

Yeah we were planning to rope em up for the ladders.  Any suggestions on easier routes I can put them on?

Depends how old your kids are. We've been climbing at the New for two years now with kids of every age and ability. The best single destination is Beauty, followed by Summersville. Here are some ideas, with the youngest age at which one of our kids topped a route under his or her own power:

Beauty Mountain / Super Mario area - easy approach, 5-10 min.

• Guide Routes Left and Right, 5.4 - 4yo
• There are TR anchors on a boulder to the right of Guide Routes that we have not tried, but look 5.5-6, within range for our 7-yr-old
• Journey to the Center of the Brain, 5.7 - 6yo with tension through one long move down low
• If you protect it right, you can also traverse into Out of Mind from Journey to bypass the 10a crux move and yield another long, easy line that climbs similar to Journey. 

Summersville Lake - Approach will take ~45 min. with little kids. Involves a 20-ft ladder with rungs too far apart for kids under 4 ft., so you have to carry them down. If you have a kayak, you can cut the approach time in half and skip the ladder by putting in at Salmon Run.

• On Top of the Milky Whale, 5.4 - 7yo, 8yo's first lead
• The slab below the first bolt of No Way Jose, 5.4, 15 ft. - 4yo
• Hippy Dreams, 5.7 - 8yo
• Jeff's Bunny Hop, Sniff the Drill, That Eight, all 5.8, all really good - 8yo

Feel free to PM me for more kid beta. 

Ryan McDermott wrote:

Depends how old your kids are. We've been climbing at the New for two years now with kids of every age and ability. The best single destination is Beauty, followed by Summersville. Here are some ideas, with the youngest age at which one of our kids topped a route under his or her own power:

Beauty Mountain / Super Mario area - easy approach, 5-10 min.

• Guide Routes Left and Right, 5.4 - 4yo
• There are TR anchors on a boulder to the right of Guide Routes that we have not tried, but look 5.5-6, within range for our 7-yr-old
• Journey to the Center of the Brain, 5.7 - 6yo with tension through one long move down low
• If you protect it right, you can also traverse into Out of Mind from Journey to bypass the 10a crux move and yield another long, easy line that climbs similar to Journey. 

Summersville Lake - Approach will take ~45 min. with little kids. Involves a 20-ft ladder with rungs too far apart for kids under 4 ft., so you have to carry them down. If you have a kayak, you can cut the approach time in half and skip the ladder by putting in at Salmon Run.

• On Top of the Milky Whale, 5.4 - 7yo, 8yo's first lead
• The slab below the first bolt of No Way Jose, 5.4, 15 ft. - 4yo
• Hippy Dreams, 5.7 - 8yo
• Jeff's Bunny Hop, Sniff the Drill, That Eight, all 5.8, all really good - 8yo

Feel free to PM me for more kid beta. 

Awesome thanks, I will definitely be sending you a dm as the date gets a little closer and things start to get finalized.