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jdejace
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Mar 23, 2018
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New England
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 5
Have you looked at the Arc'teryx boots? Lower profile doubles, more like G5 sized. Curious as to your thoughts on the Lowas. They supposedly make really nice stuff, though those are a bit heavier. I guess I sort of have a different inclination than the others. Mountaineering boots don't really stretch like rock shoes or hiking boots. If they suck trying them on for a few minutes I'm skeptical that it'll work itself out after a long day. Have you tried just taping a piece of foam at that tender spot to protect you from the seam?
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Nick Sweeney
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Mar 23, 2018
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 1,031
jdejace wrote:I guess I sort of have a different inclination than the others. Mountaineering boots don't really stretch like rock shoes or hiking boots. If they suck trying them on for a few minutes I'm skeptical that it'll work itself out after a long day. Have you tried just taping a piece of foam at that tender spot to protect you from the seam? Mountaineering boots don't stretch, but they absolutely pack out over time. This is especially true with double boots.
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jdejace
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Mar 23, 2018
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New England
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 5
Yeah, I'm not sure that's going to help with his particular problem of a pressure point at a seam though? Here's hoping for his sake.
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Aaron Nelson
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Mar 23, 2018
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Portland
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 5
Thanks jdejace and Nick, for input and for keeping this thread alive. Jdjace, I had given the Arc’teryx some thought, but I’m looking to future goals of 6000-7000 meters, and I want to error on the side of more than less, warmth wise. I’ve got good circulation, but man, once I stop moving I get cold fast. Those look sweet though, with solid reviews, and this is the first time the dead bird item is cheaper than the others I’m looking at! Agreed with both of you on mtn boots not stretching, but double boot liners packing out. And wondering if that process would soften the seam, or just make it worse? Hard to say. Just seems like a bad omen to start with a problem out of the box. Also, I have not tried the foam pad fix just yet, and I’m hoping not to need to, but that’s a good idea. I’m going to keep trying with the G2’s—they’re just too perfect in every other way to give up on. I’ll post some thoughts and comparisons between the G2SM’s and the Lowa’s when I’ve got both in hand. I’ve had Lowa Mtn Expert EVO for 4 years—my entire mountaineering “career” haha—and they’re great. Solid construction, warm, stiff, durable. I would hope to have a similar report about the 6000’s. Not much out there review wise except this, a few years old: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/09/lowa-6000-evo-rd-double-boot.html?m=1
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Aaron Nelson
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Mar 23, 2018
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Portland
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 5
Nick—in the mind-numbing haze of boot-think I forgot to ask, have you been to the Cordillera Blanca before? My girlfriend and I are really looking forward to the trip, and trying to climb Hood every chance we get, as many different routes as possible to train up skills and fitness. What and where are you planning on climbing down there?
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Melanie Shea
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Mar 25, 2018
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Denver
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 10
Yea I was freaking out too, you'd be a bit fucked if it was constantly painful to move. A little bit of "front pointing" on the edge of some steps, and some quick weird looking walks around the neighborhood and they were good. Have fun in Peru!
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Aaron Nelson
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Mar 26, 2018
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Portland
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 5
Greg Shea wrote:Yea I was freaking out too, you'd be a bit fucked if it was constantly painful to move. A little bit of "front pointing" on the edge of some steps, and some quick weird looking walks around the neighborhood and they were good. Have fun in Peru! Thanks Greg! And it’s good to hear the issue can resolve itself. That seems to be a common phenomenon from the online chatter, which is great news, because these boots are otherwise perfect. And sooo light. Once you try them on, you’re ruined for anything else.
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Nick Sweeney
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Mar 28, 2018
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 1,031
Aaron Nelson wrote:We are planning to head into the Ishinca valley. Seems like a lot of options in there to get started in the range, especially for newish, moderately experienced climbers like me! Everything down there looks amazing, and we are considering Tocllaraju hopefully, after Urus and Ishinca. Ranrapalca would be the icing on the icing, but probably a bit far fetched for our trip. Thanks for the G5 suggestion. I’ll give it some thought. I’d love to have full-on doubles, and the G2’s seem like the best. I’m going to see how they feel after a prolonged stair or gym machine session. Gonna get some looks I’m sure, haha. I’ve got a pair of Lowa 6000 RD’s coming too, for comparison’s sake. A lot floating on the old credit card right now Nice. I have the same plan, I'll be down there the first two weeks of July. Enjoy your trip and good luck with the boots!
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Aaron Nelson
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Mar 28, 2018
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Portland
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 5
Nick, cool—it’s looking like we’ll overlap down there. I’ll keep my eyes peeled for G2’s and say hi! Thanks again for your input. Now the crux is finding a pair 1/2 size up to do my due diligence.
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Peter Boudreau
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Apr 29, 2018
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Dover, NH
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 0
Hey guys! Glad I found this forum. I just got a pair of the G2 and despite the spring weather I decided to take them up to the whites of NH to break them in and give them a test run. A few things... - I noticed that my calf is killing me and actually abandoned the hike (no harm since it was late in the day anyway), this only hurt on one boot, so i'm leaning more towards stretching/prep work, but was curious if anyone else had a similar issue with mountaineering boots at all.
- I did notice the biting issue with the shin/ankle but took this as a "these boots are new", maybe I'm not wearing the right socks, just need to get used to it. I need to re-read the posts on here, but I'm not looking to get a new set of liners just yet since i spent $800+ on the boots.
- I see a few comments on socks, but i'm wearing darn tough hiking socks like i normally would (no sock liner) like i would on a normal pair of hiking boots.
- I noticed chaffing on my shin as well and wondering if i need longer socks?
- Should I be wearing more or less of a sock given all of the layers this boot has to offer.
- I find it really hard to actually walk in these, but i think it just takes time, and practice, I'm headed to Banff (that's why i bought them) and think they'll be great, but since i'm new to these kinds of boots, and spent so much time/money getting them, and tips/tricks would be awesome!
I really like the boots so far despite some of the complaints or issues, i think most can be resolved, but not exactly sure where to start.
Thanks in advance!
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Melanie Shea
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Apr 29, 2018
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Denver
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 10
Peter Boudreau wrote: Hey guys! Glad I found this forum. I just got a pair of the G2 and despite the spring weather I decided to take them up to the whites of NH to break them in and give them a test run. A few things...- I noticed that my calf is killing me and actually abandoned the hike (no harm since it was late in the day anyway), this only hurt on one boot, so i'm leaning more towards stretching/prep work, but was curious if anyone else had a similar issue with mountaineering boots at all.
- I did notice the biting issue with the shin/ankle but took this as a "these boots are new", maybe I'm not wearing the right socks, just need to get used to it. I need to re-read the posts on here, but I'm not looking to get a new set of liners just yet since i spent $800+ on the boots.
- I see a few comments on socks, but i'm wearing darn tough hiking socks like i normally would (no sock liner) like i would on a normal pair of hiking boots.
- I noticed chaffing on my shin as well and wondering if i need longer socks?
- Should I be wearing more or less of a sock given all of the layers this boot has to offer.
- I find it really hard to actually walk in these, but i think it just takes time, and practice, I'm headed to Banff (that's why i bought them) and think they'll be great, but since i'm new to these kinds of boots, and spent so much time/money getting them, and tips/tricks would be awesome!
I really like the boots so far despite some of the complaints or issues, i think most can be resolved, but not exactly sure where to start.
Thanks in advance! I definitely like the sock to come above the boot. I wear a snartwool phd ski sock. Its is a medium thickness and ends just velo the knee. I also don't think you need an insole. I've easily walked a hundred miles in mine just approaching on a dirt trail. Not to mention time I've spent on snow. I never felt the need for an insole in mine. But, your feet may be different.
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Glenn Patton
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May 19, 2018
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Huntington Beach, CA
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 0
Hi fellas, I know this is an old post but hoping my reply doesn’t fall on deaf ears. I’m currently in the process of picking up some G2’s for a trip to Nepal in October & have a few sizing questions for all you that currently own a pair. I have a size 9 (42) at home that I’m testing, & a 9.5 (42.5) on the way. I’m a street shoe size 8.5, but I found out the hard way (after losing a pinky toenail on a weekend trip & constantly banging my big toe on any long descents) I’m a size 9 in hiking boots.
1) What is the acceptable amount of wiggle room in the toe box? In the size 9’s i can wiggle my toes just a lil but it’s pretty darn snug. Can’t overlap\cross my big toe.2) Kicking steps, should there be no feeling of the front of the boot at all? I can definitely feel I’m at the front of the boot, but don’t get the toe nail banging or any real discomfort like in my hiking boots.3)Overall fit or tightness. Should the boot initially fit like a glove or should there be a lil room for swelling? The boot is really snug all over with just a heavy duty sock, even a standard sock. I’m concerned it will be real tight after my feet possibly swell from altitude or late in the day after a trek. I have a couple days before the 9.5 boot arrives & I can compare it to the 9. But was hoping I could get some advice while I wait. Thanks in advance!
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jdejace
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May 19, 2018
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New England
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 5
Sounds too small to me. See what the 9.5 feels like.
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that guy named seb
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May 19, 2018
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
definitely sounds too big glen, go up at least half a size.
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Gerrit Verbeek
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Jun 20, 2018
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Anchorage, AK
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 0
Wore G2 SMs up Denali (West Buttress) from May 20th to June 7th, 2018. They performed excellently.
They fit true to size for my feet, no need to size up or down compared to other footwear. I have a wide forefoot and the fit was good, no pinchpoints for me like some have reported, and no blisters. They also took old Black Diamond Contact strap crampons perfectly (chosen for good overboot fit and lack of technical climbing on the WB). Seems like one of the major criticisms of the boots is that they're not very durable, but since the West Buttress involves no technical climbing or rough terrain I can't comment on that.
I run hot and took overboots with me but did not need to use them. Costco midweight wool hiking socks worked well. Not totally sure on the lowest temperature encountered but we saw at least -20F / -30C overnight. The lacing, zippers, and shell of the boots performed great in the cold. I usually stored the shells in the tent vestibule and never had issues taking them off or putting them on.
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Chris C
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Jun 20, 2018
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 407
Glenn, obviously it's hard to say over just hearing your description on the internet, but it sounds like those are too small for you. I find the I am very true-to-size with the G2 SM, my foot measures exactly 42.5, and I wear a 42.5 in the boot. ("Street shoe" is kind of hard to say, most shoes don't fit true to size.)
For me at least, when I have the boots tightened properly, I do not make contact with the front of the boot during kicks. My boot is roomy enough to leave some wiggle room in the toes, but snug enough to have almost no heel lift if the boas are tight. For swelling, remember that you can always mess with the boas a little bit. Regardless of my sock choice, thin or thick, the boots fit 100%. I wear either Smartwool's PhD Mountaineering or their Mountaineering Extra Heavy socks, which are almost on the opposite sides of the spectrum thickness wise.
You should also note that the boots just may not work out for your foot shape, no matter the size. It could be beneficial to also give the Phantom 6000s a shot. For me, it was the opposite. No matter what size, the 6000s resulted in toe bang and/or heel lift.
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Fergus Kane
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Jun 20, 2018
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Quito
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 0
Dan Hurwit wrote:2 things: 1) The upper BOA on my right foot failed in exactly the way that you mentioned. Unfortunately while up in Hyalite. Seemed off axis, skipped teeth, etc. I was able to get the dial to mostly tighten by exerting pressure axially while spinning (I pushed the dial down while turning....) but it didn't hold so I had to improvise. I know for a fact it broke when I simply tried to crank things down a little too hard. I've replaced it ($8) and now I just think about the boot a little differently. Basically, I get them tight, as tight as I would normally get a lace-up boot, and nothing more. Even though technically the BOA, unlike a lace-up, let's me take the tightness to 11, I only take it to 10. Digressing, it's pretty goddamn Gucci but I love the fact that I can hone in and fiddle so quickly and easily. And they are super warm and climb and approach really well. For what I'm doing, cost-benefit still puts these very high in the benefit column.
2) The digging in that you and others are experiencing is almost certainly due to the velcro closures on the inner boot. Quick fix is to secure the lower velcro further towards your toes, and the upper velcro closure higher up your ankle. This creates space between the two velcro closures, without which there is a pinch point. The longer term fix is to actually cut away a few cm from each strap (bottom of the upper strap and top of the lower strap) to create that space. Hope that works for you! Credit Brady @ IME for figuring that out.
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Fergus Kane
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Jun 20, 2018
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Quito
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 0
I've got the G2s and have only used them once so far on an ascent of Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Got them coz I have bad circulation. They held up well, BUT for the pinching issue, which was really uncomfortable on steep ascents and forced me to flat foot cross over when I did not really want to. I'm trying to work that out right now. The inner boot adjustment seems to help a little, but I also just noticed the position of the inside riveted lace guide seems to be important. It seems that both this and the stiff upper can dig into the foot, it can be rotated to give about a centimetre more/less space, and I have a feeling that I've had it poorly positioned. I'm hoping that this will mostly solve the issue, but have to try it out properly to check. Fingers crossed
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AlpineIce
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Jun 21, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 255
Fergus Kane wrote: I've got the G2s and have only used them once so far on an ascent of Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Got them coz I have bad circulation. They held up well, BUT for the pinching issue, which was really uncomfortable on steep ascents and forced me to flat foot cross over when I did not really want to. I'm trying to work that out right now. The inner boot adjustment seems to help a little, but I also just noticed the position of the inside riveted lace guide seems to be important. It seems that both this and the stiff upper can dig into the foot, it can be rotated to give about a centimetre more/less space, and I have a feeling that I've had it poorly positioned. I'm hoping that this will mostly solve the issue, but have to try it out properly to check. Fingers crossed
Which is the before & which is the after photo?
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Peter Boudreau
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Jun 23, 2018
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Dover, NH
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 0
I just got back from Banff, and used the G2 SM the entire time (exception of heading down from the hut). Everyone else had leather boots (lowa, scarpas) and they did fine. I was warm the entire time, and was pleased to not have to stop on gaiters over top of my boot. Almost too warm for the conditions I was in, but while some people - very minor - were complaining about cold feet I had the ideal temp the entire time.
The plastic ankle issue that's been mentioned has gone away mostly after "breaking in" the boots, and although it's still noticeable it isn't a detriment to the adventure. I had an amazing time, and I think the boots are part of the reason I had so much fun. They are insanely light, and wearing almost knee high socks (one pair) worked well for me since I was having some chaffing on my shins.
Overall, extremely impressed, and looking forward to giving them a test run around the white mountains this winter as well.
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