La Sportiva G2 SM. Any input

Brandonian wrote:I think the individual that started this thread got a pair of G2s and I hope he's not running a bunch of extra bullshit under them. If you have the time please blast some feedback. I hope everyone's opinions were helpful. BEWARE OF BOOGER EATERS WRAPPED IN PLASTIC BAGS.

I did get G2's but unfortunately we had a crap winter on the east coast and by the time I go them the winter was done so I never got to use them. Ill def send an update when I try em out this year. My whole premise on using the VB system was simply to keep the inner boot/ socks from getting soaked in sweat cuz my feet are excessively sweaty when I hike.
I know I can take the inners out and dry them in my sleeping bag and yada yada yada but without having tried them yet (and I will try them without VB first off) I still worry that a long approach/ alpine climb combined with a good stent of sitting still at a belay ledge or something could result in cold toes with sweaty socks/ inner boot.

Looking forward to winter and testing these out. hoping I don't have the same BOA prob that another user posted. Never have with my snowboarding boots so far.

Hey all, I rocked some G2 SMs for a 4 week trip to the Cordillera Blanca this summer. Here's some observations...

Pros:
Very light for long days with lots of elevation gain

Boa was very easy to dial in the right fit right when I needed it. Glacial travel - looser, AI3 - tighten those bad boys up!

Feet stayed dry and toasty warm

Cons:
The boots are already showing quite a bit of wear! The fabric on the outside of the boot on the inside of my feet is almost halfway worn through already. It's the spot right where the rubber ends and the gaitor fabric starts. Same place where your ankle bone sticks out on the inside.

I had to get a thick insole put in the boot because my feet are skinny. Sinched all the way down, my toes kept smacking the front of the toe box when I kicked. Solved with thick super feet soles.

Wow lots of feedback from people who don't actually own G2 SMs!

I actually own G2 SMs and they are amazing boots. Comfortable, dry, warm, and they can climb. They are pretty new so I haven't put much time on them since they are very new, about 30 days, but I have climbed 5-6000m peaks in them where they performed spectacularly.

Also, the Boa system is pretty sweet in the fact that you can adjust them very quickly on the fly. They are perfect for slogging through glacial fields and then tightening up for pitched climbing. I have indeed been worried that the wire would snap, so I try not to crank on the knob too hard. I found that once they are snug, ratcheting the knob harder and hard doesn't do much more than put more stress on the cable.

I had Spantiks prior to these, and there is very little comparison between the two other than the fact that they both fit similarly and are mostly yellow. In no way, shape, or form, are the G2 SM and the Baruntse/Spantik the same in class.

I just got a few pair of these to try on and keep one, for Elbrus, and I am out of time!

How much heel lift should I have? will it go away with use?

The 46 feel just a bit snug at the toes but I have no heel lift
The 46.5 feel fantastic in size, however I have probably 1/2+ heel lift.

Any advice?

Thanks

I just received a pair of G2 SM's - eventually intended for Denali, but with some adventures beforehand. There's a lot of pros, but a couple of cons too that I wanted to share and get thoughts on:
- I only see one mention of a boa failure above. Out of the box (although I have a suspicion they might have been 'tested' by someone else previously), one of the 4 boas on my pair was a little tricky to push in - looked like it was turning off-axis when trying to tighten, and also skipping as though some internal teeth had been rounded down or something. After continued attempts to resolve it, I guess I've rounded them down more - that boa won't tighten now.
- when I keep my foot flat on the ground, and pivot forward at my ankle, I can feel the boot dig into the top of ankle. I suspect this is because one boa secures the boot across the top of the foot, while the other secures around the ankle - but there is no support bridging these two sections, so the boot folds in at the junction of them, and into the front of your ankle. That's my best effort at explaining it anyway - anyone notice a similar issue?

On the failure.

Did the lace just come out of the reel or did it break?

If it just came out, you can take a small screwdriver and open the reel and re-insert (BOA has great videos on this) and it will work as normal. If it broke, then a new lace has to be threaded. The laces cost $4 each from BOA and a reel is $8. Prolly a good idea to pack one of each for a trip, just as you would pack a spare lace for any boot.

It's so he can return them without them being all funked out.

The liner insulation is EVA (closed cell) so it shouldn't pickup that much moisture to affect insulation. The only reason to use a VBL with these boots would maybe be to keep your thicker socks clean and dry, you'll still need to clean the liner socks though.

I think these boots will probably replace the Spantics in the near future, took a look at them last weekend, they're sooo lite. This might be a boot to look at if you're in my neck of the woods (Quebec).

I picked up a pair of G2 SM boots from Mountain Gear. I LOVE THESE BOOTS! Spent the last two days climbing waterfall ice and they perform great on technical ground. The BOA is awesome and these are my first boots with an integrated gaiter so I love that too. Highly recommended!

Just got my pair of G2s today! Only the front bail of my grivel g14s don’t seem to fit so nice. Is there a wider bail? Or can someone suggest a crampon that fits better? Has anyone else ran into this problem?

ngrah wrote: I just received a pair of G2 SM's - eventually intended for Denali, but with some adventures beforehand. There's a lot of pros, but a couple of cons too that I wanted to share and get thoughts on: - I only see one mention of a boa failure above. Out of the box (although I have a suspicion they might have been 'tested' by someone else previously), one of the 4 boas on my pair was a little tricky to push in - looked like it was turning off-axis when trying to tighten, and also skipping as though some internal teeth had been rounded down or something. After continued attempts to resolve it, I guess I've rounded them down more - that boa won't tighten now. - when I keep my foot flat on the ground, and pivot forward at my ankle, I can feel the boot dig into the top of ankle. I suspect this is because one boa secures the boot across the top of the foot, while the other secures around the ankle - but there is no support bridging these two sections, so the boot folds in at the junction of them, and into the front of your ankle. That's my best effort at explaining it anyway - anyone notice a similar issue?

2 things: 

1) The upper BOA on my right foot failed in exactly the way that you mentioned. Unfortunately while up in Hyalite. Seemed off axis, skipped teeth, etc. I was able to get the dial to mostly tighten by exerting pressure axially while spinning (I pushed the dial down while turning....) but it didn't hold so I had to improvise. I know for a fact it broke when I simply tried to crank things down a little too hard. I've replaced it ($8) and now I just think about the boot a little differently. Basically, I get them tight, as tight as I would normally get a lace-up boot, and nothing more. Even though technically the BOA, unlike a lace-up, let's me take the tightness to 11, I only take it to 10. Digressing, it's pretty goddamn Gucci but I love the fact that I can hone in and fiddle so quickly and easily. And they are super warm and climb and approach really well. For what I'm doing, cost-benefit still puts these very high in the benefit column.

2) The digging in that you and others are experiencing is almost certainly due to the velcro closures on the inner boot. Quick fix is to secure the lower velcro further towards your toes, and the upper velcro closure higher up your ankle. This creates space between the two velcro closures, without which there is a pinch point. The longer term fix is to actually cut away a few cm from each strap (bottom of the upper strap and top of the lower strap) to create that space. Hope that works for you! Credit Brady @ IME for figuring that out.

Still loving my G2SMs and looking forward to taking them to Peru. Can someone link me to where I can get a BOA repair kit for them, just in case?

G2 SM Boa Repair Information 

Edited Jan 12, '18 4 pm AKT (7 pm CST) based on an email from Boa Customer Service

Email response from Boa Customer Service: "Most La Sportiva G2SM boots are equipped with the M3-S dial, and HP42 lace. The upper lace is a 100cm, and the lower lace is typically a 60cm terminated lace."

Repair instructions are here: https://www.theboasystem.com/repair#boa-m3-system

Boa M3-S Spare Parts Kit ($4): https://store.theboasystem.com/product.php?productid=16198

HP42 Laces (select length on the Order page): https://store.theboasystem.com/product.php?productid=16152

Recommendations:

• Boa sells 3 variants of the M3 dial (M3, M3-S, and M3-C). Boa Customer Service states that most G2SMs have MS-3 dials, but double check your G2SMs against photos of all 3 on the left side of this page: https://store.theboasystem.com/home.php?cat=337
• Have a wirecutter and a way to protect the ends of cut wire from unraveling. The shortest HP42 lace available on the product page above as of Jan 12, '18 is 100 cm so if your 60cm lower lace fails you may have to cut one.

I sent a followup email with these questions to Boa, expect another update Monday:

* Boa currently only sells 100cm+ replacement HP42 laces, so I asked if there is anywhere to buy 60cm replacement lower laces, or if they recommend cutting longer laces or using a longer lace and tucking away the excess

* I asked if you can repair any M3-type dial with any other M3-type spare parts kit, or if only M3-S spools and dials fit in M3-S housings.

Extra search keywords: fix, broken

Thank Gerrit.  I actually emailed BOA last week inquiring about spare parts - the rep stated that they do not have all the parts on their website because the G2SM uses an unusual lacing setup.  Thankfully, they are sending me some spare parts.

Boa faliures- I

- had an initial issue with the boa lacing system and I contacted boa they sent me a few free reels and free laces and some tools for adjusting.

-the next failure was my fault I was planning to just get up and walk across camp. so I stepped into the boots and zippered up the gator without cinching down the lacing system at all and it got caught in the zipper. I carry a small repair kit with one reel elase and a little tool for adjusting it was a pretty simple fix but it was quite worrying at ffirst.NEVER DO THAT.

Other Notes on the Boot-

- I feel that my insulation has worn out in it's warmpth a bit. Yet, I often have river crossings on approach and this probably contributed significantly but just a warning.

Overall I have really liked the boots ( and the stock insoles) and highly recommend them they start to look beat up quickly but still keep chugging along well even if they look ugly.

For reference I have two,  month-long each trips on them where they were the only foot wear used and probably 2 and a half ice seasons on them.

Just received the boots today and goddamn they seem sweet. Works of art. REALLY hoping to take them to Peru in July....

The BOA concern seems manageable, especially after seeing the great info in this thread. The other problem—the painful pressure point at the front of the ankle when the foot/boot bends—seems much more troubling. 

It doesn’t seem to be the BOA wire causing the problem, as it’s all above and below the ankle “hinge” when tightened. And it doesn’t seem like the velcro closure tabs on the liner either, as Dan suggests. In my boot at least, those aren’t at the pinch point and aren’t the culprit. The trouble comes from the fat, rigid sewn lower seam where the more supple material is attached to allow the liner to flex. The secure hold of the BOA and the outer boot seem to make it so that the boot’s flex is exactly on this seam. The boot upper articulates forward and all the layers fold, pressing this seam into a tender spot. 

It seems like this could be a significant problem, at least for me, as I tend to find myself on   “endurance” ice or moderately steep neve—right at the sweet spot of pain in this boot.

I know lots of folks love this boot, and climb hard, and do long trips in them. Is this not such a big thing to them? Any fixes, aside from new liners at $175+? 

Break them in? I think I had a similar-ish issue for the first few hours of wear but it's hard to remember.

Aaron Nelson wrote:

Just received the boots today and goddamn they seem sweet. Works of art. REALLY hoping to take them to Peru in July....

The BOA concern seems manageable, especially after seeing the great info in this thread. The other problem—the painful pressure point at the front of the ankle when the foot/boot bends—seems much more troubling. 

It doesn’t seem to be the BOA wire causing the problem, as it’s all above and below the ankle “hinge” when tightened. And it doesn’t seem like the velcro closure tabs on the liner either, as Dan suggests. In my boot at least, those aren’t at the pinch point and aren’t the culprit. The trouble comes from the fat, rigid sewn lower seam where the more supple material is attached to allow the liner to flex. The secure hold of the BOA and the outer boot seem to make it so that the boot’s flex is exactly on this seam. The boot upper articulates forward and all the layers fold, pressing this seam into a tender spot. 

It seems like this could be a significant problem, at least for me, as I tend to find myself on   “endurance” ice or moderately steep neve—right at the sweet spot of pain in this boot.

I know lots of folks love this boot, and climb hard, and do long trips in them. Is this not such a big thing to them? Any fixes, aside from new liners at $175+? 

Aaron, I'm taking my G2SMs to Peru this summer! I think you just need to break them in.  How much have you worn them?

Thanks Greg and Nick! Yeah Peru—can’t wait, first trip!

You guys are prob right about breaking them in, I hope. I’m just hyper-wary of potential long term boot problems, as I’m doing battle now with a separate problem caused by my ski boots, and spreading to my regular, formerly comfortable, climbing boots. 

Nick, I’ve only worn them around them house, doing laps clomping up and down the stairs. I want to keep the return option open as long as possible. Haha, maybe I’ll take them to the gym like someone else above did and see how that works. Not weird at all!

So Greg, for you the problem just went away with time and usage? That seems encouraging. Has anyone had the problem persist to the point of being a deal breaker? 

Fair enough.  What objectives do you have in mind? You could consider returning the G2SMs and trying the G5 boots - from what I've been told, the G5s (formerly Batura 2.0) is warm enough for 6000m peaks in the Blanca.

We are planning to head into the Ishinca valley. Seems like a lot of options in there to get started in the range, especially for newish, moderately experienced climbers like me! Everything down there looks amazing, and we are considering Tocllaraju hopefully, after Urus and Ishinca. Ranrapalca would be the icing on the icing, but probably a bit far fetched for our trip. 

Thanks for the G5 suggestion. I’ll give it some thought. I’d love to have full-on doubles, and the G2’s seem like the best. I’m going to see how they feel after a prolonged stair or gym machine session. Gonna get some looks I’m sure, haha.

I’ve got a pair of Lowa 6000 RD’s coming too, for comparison’s sake. A lot floating on the old credit card right now