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Old lady H
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Jun 2, 2017
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Boise, ID
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 1,375
Lewis H wrote:The first problem is usually finding a good partner (going back onto the original thread) It's been suggested, but no one has gotten around to it yet, that an appropriate companion "sticky" would be "How to get, and survive, a first date". Best, OLH
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Lewis H
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Jun 2, 2017
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rapid city, SD
· Joined Nov 2016
· Points: 5
Old lady H wrote:It's been suggested, but no one has gotten around to it yet, that an appropriate companion "sticky" would be "How to get, and survive, a first date". Best, OLH That would probably be more helpful than using the common partner finder on certain occasions
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John Kelly
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Oct 1, 2017
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Greenville, SC
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 45
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John Kelly
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Oct 1, 2017
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Greenville, SC
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 45
Also just a suggestion for a partner section if you're okay with novices semi beginners people who can climb maybe up to 5859 put it in there. If you're looking for expert climbers that's great to just put that in there A lot of times I don't respond because I'm afraid I'm not good enough to go with folks who may have told me not come along if you can clean behind me which I can hear good again just a thought thank you
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Mike Slavens
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Oct 31, 2017
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Houston, TX
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 35
Old lady H wrote: "How to get, and survive, a first date". Be social. 100% of climber belaytionships have been formed by first talking to people. Chat people up at the gym, chat people up on MP.com, chat people up at the gear store, chat people up at REI, chat people up at the crag, chat up people up wearing climbing clothes (BD hat, R1 hoodie, etc.). Look for internet groups (MeetUp, Facebook, etc.). Look for group trips (Craggin Classic, RR Rendevous, ICM, etc.). 20-years ago you had to put in some real research to even find the spot that climbers met up (probably a shoe repair store that also resoled climbing shoes, or a backpacking consignment store that would take climbing gear), then you had to hang out there 24/7 to ensure you were there to catch the occasional climber coming in, and that was all just to initiate the conversation. Take advantage of all the tools you have access to (gyms, REI, Facebook, MeetUp, MP.com, etc.). Don't hesitate to reply to partner requests but just be friendly and honest with your skills. No one ever got ripped because they replied "newbie just leading 5.8 but happy to trade a safe belay". If you're new and looking for a mentor post that, and a few months later post again. People move, people only check every so often, posts get buried, etc. etc. Unfortunately its a bit of spray-and-pray and it takes time, but there really is no other way to meet other climbers, much less climbers that you would like to go climbing with, other than putting yourself out there.
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Stan Hampton
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Nov 15, 2017
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St. Charles, MO
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 0
csproul wrote: If a partner ever complained about the way I racked gear following a pitch, that would be the LAST time we ever climbed together. If you showed up at the belay with a shitshow of gear all over your harness and it cost us five minutes per changeover, that'd be the last time we climbed together. I agree. It takes minimal effort to rack gear in an organized way so that when you transfer gear at the anchor the leader doesnt have to clean up the mess and waste time and energy doing so. Its easier to climb (follow) when the gear isnt hanging all over and getting in your way too.
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Dan Africk
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Nov 15, 2017
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Brooklyn, New York
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 275
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Cody H
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Feb 6, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 30
eli poss wrote: take this with a grain of salt as i have limited experience with multi-pitch: if you don't have anything else to do while your partner is pulling the rope from the previous rappel you should start feeding the free end through the next set of rings/links. and don't forget the put a stopper knot in the ends. i would suggest a double overhand for such a knot Also if you don't want to shell out the money for a PAS such as sterling reactor, you can make a very strong, slightly dynamic PAS by getting some 1" tubular webbing and tying in a loop via either water knot or, even better, double fishermans. if you tie it with a double fishermans, it will likely be stronger in tensile strength to the PAS. rgold correct me if i'm wrong but a double fishermans conserves 80% strength in nylon: 22kn * 2 * 80%= 35.2kns I would not reccomend using the double fishermans to tie two pieces of webbing together. I would also not reccomend using the water knot to tie round things together. But for a cheap PAS I would buy a sewn runner for $5. But above all since this thread is about getting asked back to multipitch trad climb I would recommend you learn how to clove hitch into the anchor on a locker. It's something that is easier for the leader and the follower to do on any multipitch as it is one its one less thing you have to carry on your harness and to deal with during the changeover/cleaning the anchor. When you are on rappel you can use one of the leader's sewn runners girth hitched to your harness to clip into the anchor since you will no longer be tied in.
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eli poss
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Feb 6, 2018
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SLC
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
Cody Hays wrote:I would not reccomend using the double fishermans to tie two pieces of webbing together. I would also not reccomend using the water knot to tie round things together. But for a cheap PAS I would buy a sewn runner for $5. But above all since this thread is about getting asked back to multipitch trad climb I would recommend you learn how to clove hitch into the anchor on a locker. It's something that is easier for the leader and the follower to do on any multipitch as it is one its one less thing you have to carry on your harness and to deal with during the changeover/cleaning the anchor. When you are on rappel you can use one of the leader's sewn runners girth hitched to your harness to clip into the anchor since you will no longer be tied in. A double fishermans is perfectly safe in webbing. The only issue is that it will become atomically welded once it's been weighted. But for a tether that you're never gonna untie, that's a non issue. And for rapping off a multi-pitch you can't tie in with a clove so you need something else to clip in. The debate between a runner and a PAS has already been hashed out a million times. Let us preserve this thread for its wisdom rather than converting it into another PAS war. The reason I suggested tying one's own tether if they want to go the route of webbing is because 1" tubular webbing is gonna be much beefier and durable than one of the skinny slings that you're likely to find as runners on the leader's rack. If you find yourself doing lots of multi-pitch with rappel descents, it's nice to have something beefy.
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rgold
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Feb 6, 2018
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Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
If you are going to make a tied tether out of webbing, you should preferably use a double fishermans, or if you insist on a ring bend, then make sure the tails are quite long and develop a habit of inspecting the knot before every use. But really---this is an application for sewn gear! Perhaps this is a time to mention that leaving a webbing rap sling tied with ring bend rather than a double fisherman's may be setting up a booby trap for climbers who follow. I can't imagine anyone would want this on their conscience. Over the years I've come across a few such slings in which an end was close to and even already inside the knot.
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Peter Lenz
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Apr 20, 2018
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Salt Lake City
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 670
Offer to carry the rope. Bring food and water to share. Offer to drive. Be attentive to the needs, safety and mood of your partner(s). Don’t boast. Minimize complaints and criticism. Take responsibility. Praise and thank your partner for a job well done.
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Andrew Rice
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Apr 20, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Tom Sherman wrote: WHY AREN'T WE YELLING?!?! But seriously, what does a PAS do, that a shoulder/ double shoulder length sling girth-hitched w/ locker, can't do. I was taught this technique, mentor called it a chickenwire, the name still sticks for me. I used to use a 24" length for this application, but now I use the 48" and if I need shorter, i loop it through anchor and the locker gets clipped back to my loop. BOOM PAS-esque! That's just a homemade PAS you described. Either way, you've got a dedicated, designated personal anchor system attached to your harness.
I'm agnostic on them, myself, but I can see the wisdom for a beginning 2nd to just clip into anchors rather than futzing around trying to clove the rope into something.
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cavemonkey
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Apr 20, 2018
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AK
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 0
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Rebecca Allen
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May 29, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 0
That is way too much to read
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Brian
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May 29, 2018
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North Kingstown, RI
· Joined Sep 2001
· Points: 799
+++ "(a) Ditch the hanging "sport loops" in the leader's belay line sometimes seen at sport crags and the gym. You don't want to be short-roping the leader, but don't want a lot of slack in the rope either. "
This is a pet peeve of mine. I see climbers standing ten feet away from the cliff with a ten foot slack loop in the rope leading up to a climber 15 feet off the deck or 10 feet above a ledge. Guess what is going to happen should he/she fall?
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Tim Stich
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May 29, 2018
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,516
Lenore Sparks wrote: I recommend gym climbing. Trad climbing is plain dumb. Especially with a PAS. OMG, it's the famous Lenore! Cleaning out fixed gear with a light sabre.
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Colonel Mustard
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May 29, 2018
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Ask questions, read up on your own, and be psyched. Try to follow quickly.
That was pretty much my formula. Particular tips are going to suit particular climbers.
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Stan Hampton
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May 29, 2018
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St. Charles, MO
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 0
Señor Arroz wrote:That's just a homemade PAS you described. Either way, you've got a dedicated, designated personal anchor system attached to your harness.
I'm agnostic on them, myself, but I can see the wisdom for a beginning 2nd to just clip into anchors rather than futzing around trying to clove the rope into something. If the leader has a preset locker in the master point it's much easier for the second to just clip the rope in, adjust the exact length they want and then tie the clove with the gate side hand. No futzing with unclipping a PAS off the harness, figuring out the length and then finally clipping into the anchor.
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Andrew Rice
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May 29, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
rockklimber wrote: If the leader has a preset locker in the master point it's much easier for the second to just clip the rope in, adjust the exact length they want and then tie the clove with the gate side hand. No futzing with unclipping a PAS off the harness, figuring out the length and then finally clipping into the anchor. The presumption of this entire thread is that the 2nd is a rank beginner. I love me some good clove hitches but given the life-or-death consequences of doing one wrong I'm actually really happy for any beginners I'm climbing with to use a PAS. In fact, I insist on it. They've got enough to think about already.
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reboot
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May 29, 2018
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.
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 125
Tim Stich wrote: OMG, it's the famous Lenore! Cleaning out fixed gear with a light sabre. I remember bumping into Lenore out climbing when I first moved to Boulder and thought the town was very cool (turns out she was super cool, the town was a bit less so)...But, dude, that was a post from over 2 yrs ago and that photo even older.
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