Evolv Oracle

I picked up the new shoe from Evolv a couple weeks ago and really like it.  I used to wear the Shaman, three iterations ago, then they changed the toe rubber and the toe box and I switched to the MR Shark 2.0 for a few years.  I'm still climbing the Sharks, but after a couple weeks I am liking the Oracle much better.  I have only climbed them in the gym so far, and my impression is that they are a bit softer in the arch than the old Shamans but a little stiffer than the Sharks.  I am able to flex my foot enough to use the shoe on vertical to slightly slabby terrain without feeling like I'm walking in ballet point, and they feel super secure on overhanging terrain and roofs.  

I size the Oracle one full size up from my street shoe and they are snug, but not painful.  The full lace is really nice and the lace system they use makes them hold the cinch really well, so even if I just pull them tight but don't tie them all the way for warm-up periods they still feel secure.   My foot shape is broad toe, average heel, high arch.  Other shoes I've tried but not liked are the Solutions (heel did not feel secure) and the Butora Acro (destroyed my ring toe and big toe, even in the wide version).  

Another bonus, they make my feet sweat about half as much as the Shark.  My Sharks go funky quick, but the Oracle hardly seems worn even after a half dozen sessions in them. 

The Oracle makes me really curious about the General as an alternative to the TC Pro...  

good review! they're on my list of possible new shoes.

Thanks for the review. I use Shamans for overhanging sport stuff and love my Luchador laces for more moderate terrain. Seems like the Oracle might fall in between. 

For size reference I bought these in 10s same as street shoe. Too small for me. I'll probably bump up to 10.5. I'm a 42 in most sportivas.

To tight for my toes but the rest of the shoe felt great. I can see someone that likes really tight shoes and dealing with break in buying street shoe size.

^^^+1^^^ regarding Paul L's recommendation to size up one size from street shoes for a snug painless fit.

Great shoe. They do great on steeps but also manage to edge well. I typically prefer stiffer shoes but these have surprised me with how well they perform. The heel also fits nicely, which I have had trouble with in the past. My feet are pretty narrow and the heels of most shoes feel too boxy for me. I got them in my street shoe size and they feel quite aggressive, which I like.