Devil's Lake Climbing Incident

Tradiban wrote:

What's this formal review you speak of?

I was thinking ANAM.

Kiri Namtvedt wrote:

I would like to know what happened.  It sounds like she took a lead fall and pulled some cams.  This can happen to experienced climbers as well as newbies and is something to bear in mind every time we put gear to rock.  

I agree.  I know some people who have already posted on this thread have more information on what happened. I wish there was a consistent way to split threads into one memorial thread about the person, and one with an analysis of what went wrong.  The problem is these sometimes kind of merge, and it seems wrong to analyze a horrible accident in a memorial thread.  Or, like the pad thing -- yes, pads can be useful, but that discussion might rub some the wrong way if it's on a memorial thread.  She sounds like she was an amazing person, perhaps someone can start a formal memorial thread.  Or maybe there already is something on another platform elsewhere.  

There was a memorial thread started, then the person that started it deleted it soon after. 

I too would like to know first hand what happend.  Where did she fall from?(above the crux, below)  What gear pulled? Where was the belayer standing, was the gear extended, and on and on.  I believe this is something the beginner climber to the life long climber can all learn from to hopefully never see a repeat.  

Everett wrote:

I was thinking ANAM.

That would be a long time coming when currently memories are fresh. I have additional info from witnesses but I was hoping they could chime in with their voice save I mince words.

Basically, we know what happened; the death was a freak occurrence, the fall was not. Cams don't just fall out on quartzite, many people have whipped successfully on smaller gear than on BTC and taken bigger grounders. We could speculate all day but none of us will know exactly why the cams ripped, it's all debatable.

My condolences to all involved, as well as her friends and family.

I too would like to know more details. The Lake is my most frequented destination, due to proximity, and Birch Tree is a climb I've TR'ed, and hope to one day lead. Can anyone who was there shed some light on the circumstances?

I was contacted by a person who was involved in this horrible incident.  He said he didn't want to speak on this web thread but said I could pass on info if I saw the need.  This is not real detailed but will shed more light on this climbing tragedy.  It is word for word what he said but only an excerpt...

"I unfortunately witnessed the fall and tried to assist as best I could afterward. It was a truly awful thing to experience. She was on birch tree crack and fell near the crux as she was moving off the loose block. Both her pieces pulled and she landed badly, she was wearing a helmet."

I protect the crux with a very small nut and a very small cam, this makes sense and is tragic. I know people at DL that have blown pieces and decked. I think this accident could happen to anybody honestly. 

Brian Carver wrote: Is there any word as to what kind of helmet she was wearing? Was it hard shell suspension style or foam? I'd say it's a pretty important question to be asking.

From what I read earlier, the injury was to the neck and back so what helmet she was wearing probably isn't important.

My condolences to everyone.  I'm very sorry for your loss.

Seth Jones wrote: I'm curious to hear what pieces pulled. I thought a .75 C4 to protect the crux was bomber. Would be really scary to hear otherwise.

My very first fall on gear was on Birch Tree onto the .75 protecting the crux.  I actually felt lucky it held, and backed it up with a nut before continuing on.  I have not gotten on the route since, because I was just too sketched out by the potential for something like this on that climb.  If you're going to fall on Birch Tree, that's where it's most likely going to happen.

I was very saddened to hear about this accident. My condolences to her family and friends.

I'll put in my 2 cents here since I feel like I have a relevant experience.

Last year my brother was the victim of an industrial explosion (he's mostly healed now and doing well, thanks). I remember reading an article about the accident on one of the first days he was in the burn ward and I did not know how things were going to turn out. The article itself was "just the facts" but the comments blended into the bottom of the article and were impossible to avoid.

While the comments were respectful and were not wrong about things that could have been done to prevent the accident, just reading the first couple of them put me in a worse place than I already was. At that point I didn't want anything to do with any analysis or attempts to assign blame, however well meaning.

On the other hand I think learning about accidents is a great way for climbers to avoid them. Many people won't take a hypothetical danger seriously but will take notice when they learn about a real person's accident. I listen to the sharp end podcast and read ANAM when I get a chance.

I recommend that there be two threads for an accident, one memorial thread that is heavily moderated and another where the accident can be discussed (still in a respectful way). Both should be titled in such a way that it is clear what each is about.

Ryan Swanson wrote:

State park rule?

Wisconsin DNR rule I believe. Someone more well versed in the history and law of climbing in Wisconsin could probably give a more clear picture. But as I understand it bolting is not allowed on public land in Wisconsin. 

ARonchetti wrote:

Wisconsin DNR rule I believe. Someone more well versed in the history and law of climbing in Wisconsin could probably give a more clear picture. But as I understand it bolting is not allowed on public land in Wisconsin. 

There aren't explicit rules against bolting, it's dependent on where you go. E.g. Willow River SP is well bolted and the park allows maintenance of the bolts with coordination between the park and MCA.  I couldn't find any state statutes regarding fixed anchors in climbing. My understanding is that the no bolt/fixed gear ethic at DL is largely community led, but maybe I'm wrong on that. I'm sure some WCA member or long term involved individual can elaborate.

I offer my sincere condolences to Savanna’s Family and many Friends.

Fly Free

Is this the time or the place for that discussion?  It’s well protected by Lake standards and putting a bolt on it won’t bring Savannah back.

Such a tragedy.  Really makes you think about the times you "got lucky."

This is so heartbreaking. I've been thinking about this a lot since hearing, and I don't have a connection to the climber or the area. I know it doesn't move the needle at all in the face of such a tragedy, but I still wanted to send some love out to friends, family, local climbers, and anyone else who was affected by the accident. 

R&I Making a Difference: Remembering Savannah Buik


http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/remembering-savannah-buik/

Chris treggE wrote:

Inane, how about starting a memorial thread with this link?  

I would but I think it would be more appropriate for someone who knew her to do that. I just dropped the link in here in hopes of getting the thread back on track. 

Tradiban wrote:

Basically, we know what happened; the death was a freak occurrence, the fall was not. Cams don't just fall out on quartzite...

Heartfelt condolences to the family and friends on their loss of a shining star.

A general comment or two. ‘Freak occurrence’ is a platitude. Nothing ‘freak’ about the results of gravity or falling. For some, there’s comfort in such a platitude as it fallaciously diminishes probability (of a bad outcome) and responsibility to address such an outcome.

‘Cams don’t just fall out…’ True, but they can vibrate their way out during a fall. Climbers underestimate the vibratory role of a rope rapidly running through a ‘biner and the transfer of that vibration to 'biner gates ('flutter') and cam lobes. I’ve pulled cams, been crunched and also thanked my lucky stars more than once after cams vibrated their way dangerously close to popping. Tight, sinker cams in good condition, forearm-deep in coarse granite, slick basalt and quartzite, desert sandstone…migrating toward daylight. Cams with sluggish action or light spring-tension are dangerous.

While the industry has standards for many aspects of climbing and gear, properties of cam springs remain outside the lines. I think some of the spring engineering hinges on a wet finger in the breeze.