lead rope solo review of wild country revo

I think that guy named seb liked it better before the change.

Tim Meehan wrote:

Bump for any new observations or impressions.

I am still using it and still liking it.   

Tim Meehan wrote:

Bump for any new observations or impressions.

I dont know man I spent some more time with one and just can't get behind it.  If you think of it as a really expensive ATC that will eventually catch a fall if you let go its great.  If you think of it as some new and improved grigri, stick with the grigri. 

Hello Dennis,

Did you tried the device some more times for solo?

Would you still use it for it or would you say, use better a Silent Partner if you have?

I am thinking about to buy the revo just for solo, but i also have a friend with a Silent Partner and could get his for a climb.

Greetz

Big Te wrote:

Hello Dennis,

Did you tried the device some more times for solo?

Would you still use it for it or would you say, use better a Silent Partner if you have?

I am thinking about to buy the revo just for solo, but i also have a friend with a Silent Partner and could get his for a climb.

If you want to be a pioneer of a new and potentially deadly method, nobody can stop you from using the Revo this way, and it may be that time will prove your choice to be a good one.

But if you just want to lead solo safely, the established device which is actually rated for what you're doing is a better choice given the information we have.

Big Te wrote:

Hello Dennis,

Did you tried the device some more times for solo?

Would you still use it for it or would you say, use better a Silent Partner if you have?

I am thinking about to buy the revo just for solo, but i also have a friend with a Silent Partner and could get his for a climb.

Greetz

yeah i've been continuing to use it and do like it a lot.. silent partner is almost certainly safer but i do like using the revo more, I used to have a silent partner but had it stolen a few years ago

dennis.s wrote:

yeah i've been continuing to use it and do like it a lot.. silent partner is almost certainly safer but i do like using the revo more, I used to have a silent partner but had it stolen a few years ago

any specific reasons you think the SP is safer?

I have a Silent Partner that I continue to use, but I'm interested in the Revo because of the temperature issue with the SP. I've had mine fail to work in 45°F temps. Had to wait for the sun to warm it up before the locking mechanism reliably would kick in (when testing it by spinning it by hand.) 

Gregger Man wrote:

I have a Silent Partner that I continue to use, but I'm interested in the Revo because of the temperature issue with the SP. I've had mine fail to work in 45°F temps. Had to wait for the sun to warm it up before the locking mechanism reliably would kick in (when testing it by spinning it by hand.) 

Whoa, I've never heard of this. Any more info?

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Whoa, I've never heard of this. Any more info?

It's in the SP manual.

Everett wrote:

It's in the SP manual.

I remember this section:

DO NOT USE THE SILENT PARTNER IN SUB-FREEZING CONDITIONS. Frozen water in the clutch could prevent the Silent Partner from locking during a fall.

...but that makes it sound like it's ice, not cold, that's the problem. 

I'm not saying I don't believe Gregger Man, I'd just like to understand what causes the problem.

The small bit of necessary grease thickens at cold temperatures, enough to keep the business end from moving enough to lock. It apparently does not require ice crystals, just higher viscosity.

The silent partner has been discontinued, it sounds like the Revo may be the next best thing to use for a brand new "self-belay" device.  It can't be any worse than a modded Gri-Gri, right?

Jordan Gans wrote:

any specific reasons you think the SP is safer?

the SP was created, tested, and marketed for rope soloing, whereas the revo's use as such is essentially off-label and likely not tested specifically for it, so maybe some corner cases where it fails where the SP maybe wouldn't, who knows...

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Whoa, I've never heard of this. Any more info?

Have fun

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2741508&tn=0&mr=0

Good to hear it locked up fine. 

As a side note, I don't really care if my lead rope solo device is great for belaying and rappelling - the Eddy is great for lead, free rope soloing, but sucks for belaying and rappelling (I use it in that capacity in order to second my pitches, but really choke up on the handle and am quite careful with it when using it for rappelling back down to my anchor).

dennis.s wrote:

very nice and I agree would be nice if it locked up a little sooner but I guess it seems to be on par with how much distance it would take the silent partner to lock up, granted been 2 years since I had it stolen so memory might be a bit rusty

If the SP was taking 2-3 feet to lock, then something was off I think. Rope diameter? Or maybe I’m just getting lucky. In my experience mine has never taken more than 6-10 inches of rope travel to lock (about half a turn of the drum and a bit for the clove hitch to tighten). Falling 2-3 feet beyond rope stretch and the actual distance of the fall is a bit un-nerving. That’s enough time to think “is this gonna catch me”

Ive never had my SP take more than 6” to lock up and I’ve taken many solo aid falls on it

I’ve noticed that my SP locks up much faster when the clutch side is facing slightly downward. Slow falls with the clutch side angled up take longer to brake. 

Josh Landis wrote: I’ve noticed that my SP locks up much faster when the clutch side is facing slightly downward. Slow falls with the clutch side angled up take longer to brake. 

Which side is the clutch side (as I was under the impression that the clutch was centrally internal to the device)? I can't see you talking about the knot-side of the device as the knot is basically central to the top of the device as well with the rope coming out of the both sides...