Petzl Evolve Adjust & Aid Climbing...Anyone Try it?

Jon LostVegan wrote:

I could probably post a pic of it on my harness if someone is interested and really can’t figure it out by trying it. 

Yes please. Thanks!

David - attached photo showing how to attach a sling around a rope (or your harness tie in points) using a bowline on a bight.

Not sure the "loop" on the Petzl Evolve is long enough to do this.

Sorry to leave everyone hanging, been traveling. Yup that's how to do it. Must've been Mark Hudon if not Rich. 

Here's a question: 

When I use this setup, sometimes I feel like I need to get closer to the piece I'm on. I generally clip a Camp 22 from belay loop to the highest biner on the piece of gear when this happens. Does this mean I need better technique, and I should use the extra length to get higher in my aiders? With my daisy pulling upwards and my tie in above the top of my aider? To what degree do you do this on steep climbing and/or tenuous placements? Recently I was on a hook on a vertical route, and I just did not want to pull up and out on it by standing up high on it. On a slab it's mostly a matter of balance, but does anyone have tips for steeper terrain, or not pulling out too much on a marginal piece?

Jonathan Croom wrote:

Sorry to leave everyone hanging, been traveling. Yup that's how to do it. Must've been Mark Hudon if not Rich. 

Here's a question: 

When I use this setup, sometimes I feel like I need to get closer to the piece I'm on. I generally clip a Camp 22 from belay loop to the highest biner on the piece of gear when this happens. Does this mean I need better technique, and I should use the extra length to get higher in my aiders? With my daisy pulling upwards and my tie in above the top of my aider? To what degree do you do this on steep climbing and/or tenuous placements? Recently I was on a hook on a vertical route, and I just did not want to pull up and out on it by standing up high on it. On a slab it's mostly a matter of balance, but does anyone have tips for steeper terrain, or not pulling out too much on a marginal piece?

I'm an aid noob, but I've been reading Chris McNamara's book. He says he rarely top steps on steep terrain because it wastes more energy than it's worth. 

Jonathan Croom wrote:

Here's a question: 

When I use this setup, sometimes I feel like I need to get closer to the piece I'm on. I generally clip a Camp 22 from belay loop to the highest biner on the piece of gear when this happens. Does this mean I need better technique, and I should use the extra length to get higher in my aiders? With my daisy pulling upwards and my tie in above the top of my aider? To what degree do you do this on steep climbing and/or tenuous placements? Recently I was on a hook on a vertical route, and I just did not want to pull up and out on it by standing up high on it. On a slab it's mostly a matter of balance, but does anyone have tips for steeper terrain, or not pulling out too much on a marginal piece?

It's a bit hard to understand exactly what you're asking but when you're top stepping you don't have to worry about the piece being pulled up and out because the vectors of force occur on the biner clipped to the piece, not the piece itself. (Meaning the force of your weight in the ladder is pulling down on the biner attached to your piece and the force of the tensioned daisy is pulling up on the biner)

There's a bit of wiggle that can happen when you're moving from your lower steps to the top step that needs to be mitigated by moving slowly and smoothly when dealing with a tenuous piece, but this is more technique than device-specific. 

Creed Archibald wrote:

I'm an aid noob, but I've been reading Chris McNamara's book. He says he rarely top steps on steep terrain because it wastes more energy than it's worth. 

Depends. On easy overhanging trade routes this is true because there's usually going to be intermediary placements that make it so that you don't need to top step. On harder and more obscure routes, there often is not going to be intermediary placements and you'll be required to top step (but even this is dependant upon the FAist's height and heart)

Marty C wrote:

David - attached photo showing how to attach a sling around a rope (or your harness tie in points) using a bowline on a bight.

Not sure the "loop" on the Petzl Evolve is long enough to do this.

Thanks. I think you are correct the loop is too small. However with the stitching cut it would be fine 

A nice in between ,  cut the stiches and have it bartacked through your hard points! 

Actually the loop works fine without modification. I use relatively large auto locker on each end, and the loop is big enough for those to slip through. Once the knot is tied, I adjust it so the plastic bit is oriented cleanly by making the loop of the bowline the right size, just a bit smaller than my belay loop.

Interesting. This looks like a nice piece of kit. And cord is so much nicer than webbing for daisies. 

I use the Kate/Greggor man-style adjustable rope daisies and love them: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106832799/aid-rig-81mm-dynamic-adjustable-daisies

If you source the ascenders someplace like aliexpress, I think you can come close to matching the price of price of the Petzl Evolve. 

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

Petzl says these arent rated for ppe so they must be used in junction with something else like a rope. Do people still use the evolv for jugging lines and anchoring?

Tim Wheatley wrote:

Petzl says these arent rated for ppe so they must be used in junction with something else like a rope. Do people still use the evolv for jugging lines and anchoring?

Yes.

Just tried in gym tonight. Total junk for aid climbing. 

1. Can't release under tension

2. You will destroy your hands pulling yourself up.

3. See above.

Peter Zabrok wrote:

Just tried in gym tonight. Total junk for aid climbing. 

1. Can't release under tension

2. You will destroy your hands pulling yourself up.

3. See above.

Maybe they work better for outdoor aid climbing. Indoor aid climbing is a whole different game. Maybe read a book before experimenting.  YGD.

Rprops wrote:

Maybe they work better for outdoor aid climbing. Indoor aid climbing is a whole different game. Maybe read a book before experimenting.  YGD.

Lol, do you realise who you just snarked at? 

FWIW, I am a huge fan of the adjust, modified with 8mm static. This mod has been covered ad nauseum. I am able to move fluidly, efficiently, and with full strength tethers. YMMV.

that guy named seb wrote:

Lol, do you realise who you just snarked at? 

I would imagine that's what made it sarcasm 

Brandon Adams wrote:

FWIW, I am a huge fan of the adjust, modified with 8mm static. This mod has been covered ad nauseum. I am able to move fluidly, efficiently, and with full strength tethers. YMMV.

Maybe they work better for outdoor aid climbing. Indoor aid climbing is a whole different game. Maybe put up a  route or ten and get some experience on the big stone  before experimenting.  YGD.

Brandon Adams wrote:

FWIW, I am a huge fan of the adjust, modified with 8mm static. This mod has been covered ad nauseum. I am able to move fluidly, efficiently, and with full strength tethers. YMMV.

I just tried it with the cord it came with. I wondered about trying a skinnier cord. 

Still ... not for me. But the Better Way is whatever works best for you. 

Peter Zabrok wrote:

Still ... not for me. But the Better Way is whatever works best for you. 

Unless we are talking about Jugging a free hanging rope… then it’s Frog Tech ;) 

Quinn,

Ya can't argue with success. And hence my reply to Brandon.  ;)

Andy Kirkpatrick says:

"At the moment my big wall rig is the Petzl Evolv Adjust tied into a Petzl Micro Swivel connected to a belay loop on my harness (I have two belay loops), using a much longer length of 8.5 mm rope. Connecting it via the swivel means it never gets tangled and allows me to get much tighter to my pieces (the Micro is attached via Allen key)."