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Petzl Evolve Adjust & Aid Climbing...Anyone Try it?


David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Erik Sloan wrote:


These are inappropriate for someone who just wants to climb one of the 'easy' El Cap routes because you don't need adjustable daisies on those routes - they tend to be low angle (as are the beginner walls that you'll do to warm up, save for the Leaning Tower). Adjustable daisies are a major convenience for people climbing radically overhanging rock, and for those who are climbing just a few pitches a day - but you have to extend them every single move (30 - 40 moves per pitch, 8 pitches per day average on the Nose) whereas with a regular daisy chain you just walk up the piece and fifi into the biner on the piece, easy as pie on the C1/C2, lower angle routes. Less time spent lengthening your daisies = more time enjoying the climbing! 


I'm not sure that is true. In that, one doesn't have to extend and crank them in every piece. On C1 just leave them extended until you get to a  difficult bit

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
David Coley wrote:

I'm not sure that is true. In that, one doesn't have to extend and crank them in every piece. On C1 just leave them extended until you get to a  difficult bit

Well spoke. I disagree that they are "inappropriate" for the situations Erik presents. They're certainly overkill, overpriced, and inefficient for the normal 80% of people on the wall, but this applies to buckle-style webbing adjustable daisies as well. I've been leading and cleaning and jugging with them for many pitches and over many months now and love them. 

If you're a "typical" climber these aren't needed but if you want them, go get them. But seriously, if it's a question of these or another totem cam, (he'll, if it's between clothing your children or another totem cam) go for the totems first second and third. If you don't have a triple set of totem between you and your partners, what even are you doing? (ps. triple set of totem comment is a hyperbolic joke - but if you do have a triple of even a quad set, your gunna love life.) 

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525
kevin deweese wrote:

Well spoke. I disagree that they are "inappropriate" for the situations Erik presents. They're certainly overkill, overpriced, and inefficient for the normal 80% of people on the wall, but this applies to buckle-style webbing adjustable daisies as well. I've been leading and cleaning and jugging with them for many pitches and over many months now and love them. 

If you're a "typical" climber these aren't needed but if you want them, go get them. But seriously, if it's a question of these or another totem cam, (he'll, if it's between clothing your children or another totem cam) go for the totems first second and third. If you don't have a triple set of totem between you and your partners, what even are you doing?

Another point is how easy extension is.  You reach down, grab and tilt the metal cam piece, and reach up.  The gadget extends  about as fast as you can reach for the high piece and so extending doesn't seem to me to present a new obstacle of any sort.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 125

Go for the Totems! Three each is a minimum on the wall these days - Gnarly Marley was waaay ahead of his time!

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi,

I thought I would add some more comments about using these. I recently did a 20m bolted roof pitch with them. Completely horizontal, with the bolts so far apart I had to swing for them. They proved very easy to use and to release. There is a skill here to do with keeping one foot in the previous ladder and quickly pulling up on the previous piece at the same time as releasing (i.e a momentary de-weighting). This was my second's first go at aid climbing, and me aided the the pitch to clean it. It was the first time he had used the adjustables or stood in ladders. He aided the pitch in 30min. Which I would say was a very good pace and a complement to these daisies.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

I hate mine... 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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