Sketchy Bailing Video

Stumbled across this post on Facebook today... Made me slightly nauseous watching it...

Caption: "When you're climbing solo, you realize that you got off the route but there is no option anymore to climb up or down?!
By the way you have no gear except a thin rope, one ice screw, your harness, a belay device and you need your crampons and ice axes to finish the climb.
Challenging!"

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfyXfZuj8pv/?taken-by=hansjoergauer

Nooooooooope, fuck that...

That guy would make a great canyoneer. 

Jordan W wrote:

Stumbled across this post on Facebook today... Made me slightly nauseous watching it...

Caption: "When you're climbing solo, you realize that you got off the route but there is no option anymore to climb up or down?!
By the way you have no gear except a thin rope, one ice screw, your harness, a belay device and you need your crampons and ice axes to finish the climb.
Challenging!"

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfyXfZuj8pv/?taken-by=hansjoergauer

And why didn't he use the ice screw?!

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

And why didn't he use the ice screw?!

There's no ice where he bails, so how would he use the screw? Like a piton? That might actually have been a better option; that, or hammering in his other tool into the crack and bailing off that. Either way, this is a huge nope.

I don’t even understand how the rope stayed on top of that tiny knife shaped rock...

Fisheye makes it look more intense then it actually is.

the horn looks bad, but hard to really tell... I was surprised to see he didn't actually down climb while on rappel back-up. 

Wow. Good that thing that rope was so skinny. A fatter rope might have slipped right off that horn.

Isn't that the guy who free soloed the Fish route in the Dolomites?

Bryce Adamson wrote:

Isn't that the guy who free soloed the Fish route in the Dolomites?

Yeah that's him.

FWIW the slope angle is not that steep. Look how he is dancing around, one foot in the ice, no hands, etc.

That said best to left to a North Face professional ...

& I knew it would fit in somewhere

*anxiety intensifies*

So the first video... Dang, nice knife edge. I probably would have at least TRIED to get a screw into something, even cammed into a crack or something. Second video... Dumb ass. Sure, lets clime an ice slab with water running UNDERNEATH. Brilliant, and VERY lucky. Third video... I'm pretty sure that was WAY more than 100 ft!

Reading alpine climbing books it is common to see the recommendation to carry a pin or two “just in case.” That dude probably would have given ANYTHING for a pin!

John Vanek wrote:

Reading alpine climbing books it is common to see the recommendation to carry a pin or two “just in case.” That dude probably would have given ANYTHING for a pin!

Or an extra sling or two. I’ve bailed a couple of times on a slotted, knotted sling. Cheaper that a cam or screw and if done right, actually quite effective.