What annoys you about your local gym?

Poorly supervised children and the giant section of wall that just got converted to a speed climbing wall

Poor air circulation, no showers or extra space to sit and chill, too expensive, and worst of all:  it's right down the street from a sweet local crag.  unless it's raining, why even go to the gym then?

Hunter S wrote:

The giant brick wall conveniently placed right next to the moonboard. That way when I inevitably fly off any hold I can smash my head on it.

Also, sandbagging V0-V2. There is no reason to do that, it's frustrating to warm up on.

There is a gym that has a real V0 in it? Remember a V0 is suppose to be like a 5.10 climb. No gym ever has easy boulder problems at the right difficulty because than noobs would have nothing to climb on.

Crossfit-ers. So loud.

• Narrow scope in type of holds purchased and used in setting. Do fads come and go in hold making? It seems that certain types are overly popular right now...
• Small/cramped/super limited locker room facilities.
• Walls not tall enough. 
• Allowing children to run around and play (while their guardian watches) in the training area, despite it saying specifically no children allowed.

The flooring is important. I used to climb at a place that had shredded tires on the floor. If you fell and landed in the wrong spot, you would end up picking radial tire out of places. No fun. Another place had those rocks - super dusty (I had to bring my inhaler.), kind of dangerous for the knees and even less fun than the radial tires. The gym I climb at now has padding - like a big bouldering pad. I feel much more confident about the landings.

Deirdre wrote:

The flooring is important. I used to climb at a place that had shredded tires on the floor. If you fell and landed in the wrong spot, you would end up picking radial tire out of places. No fun. Another place had those rocks - super dusty (I had to bring my inhaler.), kind of dangerous for the knees and even less fun than the radial tires. The gym I climb at now has padding - like a big bouldering pad. I feel much more confident about the landings.

I miss the regrind =/

the way people belay with a gri-gri

That it exists.

There should be at least a few routes modeled after the local climbing style

There's at least 15-30 people that literally live in the Movement parking lot in Denver in their fucking sprinter vans.  Like really brah, is this life you always dreamed of?  Alpine start getting you first shower and fresh plastic?  At least its always perfect sending temps to take your shirt off. 

Kids

Deirdre wrote:

The flooring is important. I used to climb at a place that had shredded tires on the floor. If you fell and landed in the wrong spot, you would end up picking radial tire out of places. No fun. Another place had those rocks - super dusty (I had to bring my inhaler.), kind of dangerous for the knees and even less fun than the radial tires. The gym I climb at now has padding - like a big bouldering pad. I feel much more confident about the landings.

Rocks on the floor!?

Fredrik Ehne wrote:

Rocks on the floor!?

Rockquest in Cincinnati, Ohio has gravel on the ground with boardwalks for walkways. Pretty dirty and dusty but it has a good OG vibe

Peter Foster wrote:

Rockquest in Cincinnati, Ohio has gravel on the ground with boardwalks for walkways. Pretty dirty and dusty but it has a good OG vibe

They've got padding throughout the place now.

Dylan B. wrote:

Chalk dust. I often walk out of the gym feeling like I smoked a pack of Pall Malls. I wish gyms would ban chalk and sell those resin balls that work nearly as well.

Just replace the chalk with coke and climb with it.

This thread was made for me!

I’m annoyed when the damn kid’s team practices at the busiest part of the day at a gym that is way over capacity. You can’t even park within 1000 yards of the gym, but at 5 pm they have 20 children ARCing on the ropes! 

And in case the owner happens to see this thread, I’m talking about THE FRONT. Get it together! 

Bad route setting.  Gyms are under a lot of pressure to control costs when it comes to route setting.  I would much rather have high quality routes with less frequent turn over.  If a gym allows setters time ($$) to properly fore-run the routes, it shows.  I'd rather a great route be up for five months, then have two-three shitty routes go up in that same five months.

Gym owners have a choice when it comes to route setting:  Fast, Cheap, Good... They get to pick any two.

It also irritates the shit out of me when the person working the front desk clearly doesn't know anything about actual climbing.  I once went to a gym and couldn't lead because they didn't have anyone there that was "certified" to give a lead belay test.  I don't expect the person working the desk to be a guide, but they should at least be a climber themselves.

Most annoying thing?

Dem day pass price$$$$

"There's at least 15-30 people that literally live in the Movement parking lot in Denver in their fucking sprinter vans"

Hahahahahahhaha this is amazing.  Alpine start for the fresh plastic.... nice