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Stick clips for short people on sport routes

sean miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Having a gimbal selfie stick is always useful. Stabilizes the camera well.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516
BrianWS wrote: That's what I have now, too. It's the shiznit, yo. I remember having the sick satisfaction of watching someone with a brand new Beta Stick realize that there are weight limits to the device -- it literally went limp and snapped under the weight of a fat rope while they were showing off how great it was for clipping 1st/2nd bolts.

I am quite aware of that when I use mine. It is not nearly as beefy as a painter's pole. I seldom extend the smallest part that is colored red for that reason.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 151

Kong panic

drmergurl Cornejo · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Im 5'2" with a negative ape index.  I often find I am having to step off the nice stance everyone else is using and put myself in a hazardous space to clip - can be dangerous, plus it is scary!  I got longer draws and taped them with tongue depressors.  It gives me 4-5 inches of reach, which has been a game changer.  Now I can clip from the clipping stance :-)  Cheap, easy and you can use them as regular biners, they will just be a bit stiffer, but wont affect the direction of fall or cause a hazard. I have only used them on a half dozen routes, but it was amazing the difference it makes

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842
rocknice2 wrote: That Frog sucks.

It most definitely doesn't. I've had it for years, always take it with me on an onsight attempt where I'm hanging draws. I used it on maybe 1 in 5 routes I climb. Depending on who bolted the route, LOL. I have used it more than once on the same climb a few times.

Kong now has this new thing, called Panic, that could be useful, but I have not tried using one, or seen it up close:
https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/f38-aid-climbing/p420-panic

You can make an impromptu "stiffie" using a twig and some sports tape. Hopefully all your draws have a wide dogbone, not one of those wimpy dyneema ones, the wide dogbone helps when you are making one up on the spot. I've seen people make a more permanent stiffie draw using a piece of miniblinds plastic and tape, again, taping the stiffening material to the dogbone. ir even using a PVC pipe to stiffen the draw..

A word of caution, if you do use one of these homemade stiffies, it is best to swap it out, if you can, once you get to a good clipping stance. 

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842
Nate Tastic wrote:

The Kong Panic and Frog have already been mentioned but, and FWIW, I wanted to point out that there is also the Prog. It combines the Panic's dogbone with the Frog's connector:

https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/f38-aid-climbing/p655-prog

Oh, You posted while I was typing. They sure do churn out new gizmos fast these days!

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
20 kN . Just know that making the draw stiff like this increases the chances of it coming uncliped so be sure to face the gates away from the direction of travel to minimize this.

I have used the trigger wire with a stiffy. To avoid the stiff webbing from rotating the   biner on the bolt simply add a regular draw when you can reach and after clipping remove the stiffy. It can then be used higher up if needed. 

Carter Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

Here in the south, many short, old school climbers carry what we affectionately call a stiffy. Take an alpine draw of your preferred length, tape a stick to the carabiners on either end and a few wraps of tape along the sling too. Works great and only takes about 8" of tape per draw and doesn't require anything to be hiked-in. You can smack it into the bolt and it'll clip itself if you hit it right then you clip and you're gucci!

Casey Elliott · · Reno, NV · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 949

Kailas Sells these cool stick clips that are really lightweight. They are 8

ft poles with a superclip style clip on the end! 
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I don't know how to find those photo's of the broken carabiner on the quickdraw, but would sure like to view them.

I'd also mention that if I was choosing any of those Kong products for this purpose, I'd go with the Frog or Prog. As they seem less likely to have this problem and a climber could probably safely leave them on the bolt anchor instead of having to replace it with a normal quickdraw. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

You can find it on the instagram link in my prior comment by hovering your mouse over the video and clicking on the right arrow button. What is mentioned in the reddit comments is that it was not his quickdraw. But the point is beyond this current discussion is that when you climb on perma-draws, or even someone elses project draws, you are responsible to inspect that gear before trusting it. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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