Single Pitch Trad

Why only look at single pitch when you can just climb the first pitch of any multi-pitch trad route, as long as there are anchors in place.  You are eliminating some really good climbs in NC, or other areas where multi-pitch is the norm.

ViperScale . wrote:

Depends on what grade you are climbing. Most sport route / top rope 10a or easier routes can be trad lead with ignoring the bolts.

This is ridiculously incorrect. 

Alan Emery wrote:

Why only look at single pitch when you can just climb the first pitch of any multi-pitch trad route, as long as there are anchors in place.  You are eliminating some really good climbs in NC, or other areas where multi-pitch is the norm.

No alot of trad multi-pitch climbs do not have bolts you can rap from. Some do sure but not all.

Marc801 C wrote:

This is ridiculously incorrect. 

I didn't say all I said most. I have climbed tons of sport 10a climbs all over the place that could have been done on gear... sure maybe sections of being a bit runout but don't be a sport baby and just run it out!

Marc801 C wrote:

This is ridiculously incorrect. 

Hey, at least he's consistent. 

John Clark wrote:

Yosemite

I disagree. how many topropesor even single pitch climbs are there in the valley? Plus, the weather in the spring is pretty unstable, and often cold/rainy. I think as far as California goes, single pitch trad in the spring? J-tree 100% x two people in the group = 200% J-Tree

If you want to skip the crowds, experience great views and camping while luxuriating in great temp.s in the SUMMER check out the Jungle.  About 200 routes and 1/2 are cracks.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106494756/jungle-on-the-aquarius-plateau 

ViperScale . wrote:

I didn't say all I said most.

It's still a ridiculously incorrect statement.

 I have climbed tons of sport 10a climbs all over the place that could have been done on gear... 

I seriously doubt that.

Name the areas and routes.

T-Wall does look good as well and doesn't require me to fly. I didn't quite realize how vehement people would get over a simple question. :)

The reason I wouldn't just do the first pitch of a multi pitch climb really is anchors. I haven't done many where I wouldn't have to leave gear if I just did the first pitch. It is just easier to weed those out than have to wade through beta.

NC

Yeah, You will love Twall. You can camp there, but I would suggest getting something in Chattanooga. The town has a few good restaurants and a brewery here and there. If your wife isn't up for trad the whole trip, you have Fosters and Denny Cove as an option as well. They are about 30 mins down the road. Happy wife, happy life... 

ViperScale . wrote:

Depends on what grade you are climbing. Most sport route / top rope 10a or easier routes can be trad lead with ignoring the bolts. Once you start getting into harder things sometimes there is not placements.

One of the oddest and most inaccurate statements I've ever read on MP.  And that's saying something.

ViperScale . wrote:

Depends on what grade you are climbing. Most sport route / top rope 10a or easier routes can be trad lead with ignoring the bolts. Once you start getting into harder things sometimes there is not placements.

This is why we need thumbs-down voting on this site.

Also, regarding the whole thing with doing the first pitch of multipitch routes; this would be inadvisable in a lot of places (Looking Glass, Stone Mountain, Red Rocks, etc).  However, at the Gunks it is easy and common for folks to crag around on the first pitches of many multipitch routes.

North Carolina is rad if you like great climbing and occasionally scary parts on the routes.

Red Rock Canyon.  Lots of single pitch in your grade level on many aspects so you can find sun or shade as needed. If planning to camp, reserve in advance.

portercassidy wrote:

Indian Creek.

According to his profile, if accurate, he leads 5.8 / follows 10c trad. Indian Creek will viciously spank him.

Marc801 C wrote:

According to his profile, if accurate, he leads 5.8 / follows 10c trad. Indian Creek will viciously spank him.

Plus, these days with modern cams the vast majority of climbs at Indian Creek are merely sport camming, even better protected than bolted sport routes if you have the gear. I.e. what's your personal definition of "trad" climbing?

mountainhick wrote:

Plus, these days with modern cams the vast majority of climbs are merely sport camming, even better protected than bolted sport routes if you have the gear. I.e. what's your personal definition of "trad" climbing?

Maybe out west...

Will Maness wrote:

Maybe out west...

Taken out of context. Referring specifically to Indian Creek. Original post duly edited.

mountainhick wrote:

Plus, these days with modern cams the vast majority of climbs are merely sport camming, even better protected than bolted sport routes if you have the gear. I.e. what's your personal definition of "trad" climbing?

Until you hit 12+ in most areas east it is the opposite in most areas. Lots of bolted routes still require trad gear unless you don't mind running the shit out of stuff. I normally don't climb sport routes without some backup trad gear.