Margo Hayes - Biographie (15.a) full

"The route looks so short in this vid" was my first thought. I also now feel as if my legs are massive tree trunks. 

amarius wrote:

Plus one, here! There is a video of Chris Sharma climbing Biographie on u-tube, he talks about dead pointing into a shallow pocket, and he is a 6ft tall. I find it amazing that Margo made all the moves look "normal".

I’ve seen Sharma give a presentation in person and he ain’t 6’ tall. I’m 6’2” and he was maybe up to my chin. Anyway, props to Margo for sending 

It wasn't at all apparent to me how overhanging this was until the lower. She looks like she's glued up there.

Josh Gates wrote:

It wasn't at all apparent to me how overhanging this was until the lower. She looks like she's glued up there.

It has to be pretty overhanging because most of the holds on the route look pretty massive. 5.13 routes at my gym have smaller holds but than the gym route is only slightly overhanging.

^Chris said it’s about 30 degrees overhanging.

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

I’ve seen Sharma give a presentation in person and he ain’t 6’ tall. I’m 6’2” and he was maybe up to my chin. Anyway, props to Margo for sending 

He is definitely 6’ tall.

aikibujin wrote:

Totally agree. Over the years I've come to realize that most of us climbers overly idolize a static / twisty style. If anyone climbs with a dynamic style or cut their feet once, they automatically have bad technique. What I realized is that "good technique" is a very individual quality, it's the ability to utilize our strength to climb effectively. And I don't just mean muscular strength, maybe advantage is a better word. Margo has crazy flexibility, that's her advantage. Sharma has crazy power, that's his advantage. As far as I know, Sharma has climbed more 5.15s than anyone else save Ondra (Alex Megos still has time to catch up), so obviously he's been able to utilize his advantages effectively. It doesn't make sense to admire one style and dismiss another just because one looks better to us. If Sharma tries to climb like Margo, he will most likely tear a ligament or something. Most of us will, unless you can do stuff like this just for fun.

That’s a good point - Chris has climbed La Dura Dura, which is much harder.  She just made it look so GOOD, lol.  I guess I was thinking about Mark’s observation in the other thread about how Adam Ondra has a very “feminine” style and was wondering if this gives him an advantage, as he’s about the same height as Chris (albeit: MUCH lankier).

ViperScale . wrote:

It has to be pretty overhanging because most of the holds on the route look pretty massive. 5.13 routes at my gym have smaller holds but than the gym route is only slightly overhanging.

Internet armchair climbing at its finest.

Ted Pinson wrote:

That’s a good point - Chris has climbed La Dura Dura, which is much harder.  She just made it look so GOOD, lol.  I guess I was thinking about Mark’s observation in the other thread about how Adam Ondra has a very “feminine” style and was wondering if this gives him an advantage, as he’s about the same height as Chris (albeit: MUCH lankier).

Ondra has axtually bulked up quite a bit lately for his Flatanger projects.  He's not near as lanky as he used to be.  Probably also partially due to him hitting the end of puberty.

Tyler Metheney wrote:

Is the new reel rock viewable now? I've been searching for it everywhere an can just find trailers. I'd really like to watch that safety 3rd film. Any info on this? Sorry if this has been brought up previously. 

not out for purchase yet just viewable at film screenings of it. 

Ted Pinson wrote:

^Chris said it’s about 30 degrees overhanging.

He is definitely 6’ tall.

I guess I’ll have to pay a visit to an optometrist 

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

I guess I’ll have to pay a visit to an optometrist 

Or you could just believe what's written on his Wiki page:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

Chris Sharma is 5.10 160#

reference - I gave birth to him.

Great job too for Margo, she isn't six feet tall tho either (I also gave birth to Margo)

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

I’ve seen Sharma give a presentation in person and he ain’t 6’ tall. I’m 6’2” and he was maybe up to my chin.

.

s.price wrote:

I'm 5'11" and when I met Chris he was definitely taller than I.

Two pieces of individual experiential evidence that conflicts? How could an answer be found?

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/do-the-eyes-have-it/

BUT! then 

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/eyewitness-memory-is-a-lot-more-reliable-than-you-think/

Oh man, what to do, then I found this!

https://answersingenesis.org/worldview/why-arent-people-convinced-by-facts/

...

...

...

Marc801 C wrote:

Or you could just believe what's written on his Wiki page:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

Probably not likely for climbers, but in combat sports, football, and pro wrestling, athletes height and weight is usually slightly exaggerated. This has more to do with the "gladiator"  element of those sports (people like their gladiators to be hulking), but goes without saying that occasionally the "billed" height on Wikipedia isn't always accurate.

In this case though, i think it is.

Looking at photos, sharma looks only slightly shorter than ondra, who is listed at 6'1". Adam ondra in turn looks about 2 to 3 inches taller than Alex Honnold who is only slightly taller than Jared Leto, whom I've stood next to a few times and is about exactly the same height as me. And I'm 5'10" with shoes on. 

I have also sat next to Jared Leto for a few minutes

They've both got about 15 grades on me.

:-/

Let's not make this thread about Chris Sharma's height, shall we?

Maybe all of you are actually right as posture greatly affects perception. I saw Jstar recently while training in the gym and a conversation of height came up. He thinks Alex Megos (listed @ 5'8") is way taller than him (5'10/11" vs not quite 5'6", based on how the 2 climbs).  A friend who claimed she was 5'6" looked way (2-3") taller than Jstar and measured against him. When Jstar stood tall and straight, suddenly the difference pretty much disappeared.

So, yeah, you're all right. Happy?

Marc801 C wrote:

Or you could just believe what's written on his Wiki page:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

Thank you Captain Obvious!

Maybe I just felt superior being taller than Sharma is when I saw him and that’s how it stuck with me, just another puny crusher.

Bottom line is, no matter the height, both of them crush on a level we can’t even dream of 

I’m 6’3.

One really cool thing about Wikipedia is it is always 100% correct. The Wiki detectives drove out to San Jose, didn't find him smoking bowls under an engelman oak so headed out to espana and took measurements of both he and he baby.