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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here
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More of these style movies please! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=amY95GOUez0 |
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It’s going viral! |
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GoPro videos should come with an advisory to take Dramamine. |
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Oh my God, this one by that same guy makes his other video look like Sonnie Trotter on the Cobra Crack. Right off the bat, can't place a cam in a splitter hand crack, backclips the piece he places, and then gets pissed at his belayer when he tells him to fix the backclip. This guy is a superstar! If that isn't enough, check out the anchor at 21 minutes in. Absolutely horrifying. |
Adam Block wrote: LOL that's terrifying. If I had watched only the first half of the video and you told me he finished the route without falling, I wouldn't believe you. |
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Probably learned anchor building from the back of a fruit loops box. When does one decide to stop leading on bolts and start leading on gear? |
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To get some sanity back after those two awful GoPro videos. This guy Blake McCord does some superb videos. |
Adam Block wrote: Here’s another good one adam. |
bkozak wrote: You made it through 20 minutes of that?! Dear lord, what the hell was he doing? |
bkozak wrote: At first I thought, "3 decent looking pieces, how bad can the anchor be?" Boy, did he prove me wrong...yikes. Didn't he yell that he was equalizing them?? |
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That Phantom Spires video was just painful to watch. The footwork, the failure to use the crack, the gear fumbling. The way he practically hyperventilates at stances while he tries to find pieces to fit in the textbook crack. So many times he takes out a perfectly appropriate piece for the crack next to him, tries to stick it in some inexplicably silly spot, and then starts cursing.... such desperation on a 5.7! Looks like a beautiful climb. |
paul.adams.3 wrote: I mean it's sort of equalized on the left and right pieces? I think he's got the SE in SERENE. Watching him clip and unclip from the crossloaded and at one point locked-open carabiner on his belay loop was a rollercoaster of emotions. |
Jake Jones wrote: Agreed, I started another thread for videos like the GoPro ones above. |
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Pretty sweet video, but I don’t get his ethics. Bolting a crack on solid rock is awful, but it’s not like you HAVE to clip the bolts... |
Ted Pinson wrote: My thinking on this sort of thing is that removing bolts from cracks discourages people from bolting cracks, because they know their work will be removed, costing them time and money for nothing. It's not so much about the climber as it is about the bolter. If you think bolting a crack on solid rock is awful, then it makes sense to remove bolts from cracks to disincentivize future awfulness. That said, I'm not 100% in agreement that bolting cracks is always awful. In an area with lots of trad, it would be, but if an area is very sport-centric, I think it's okay. Bolting a crack in a sport area isn't damaging pristine nature--there are already bolts everywhere--it's just making a crack climb accessible to sport climbers. |
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**In b4 10 pages of ethical crack-bolting internet war.** |
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I came along the video from James Pearson climbing several routes, among them Muy Caliente in Pembroke which he did it in two tries. Then I looked for the first ascent video which is a very nice video too. I don't know if these have been featured here before? But I always love seeing the Brits on their home rock. : https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=39&v=KABdGxanQLc |
