Favorite Fred Beckey Route

There are a lot of them and I thought it might be a nice way to memorialize him here on MP. So share some of your favorite Beckey routes along with stories, photos, memories. Whatever you feel.

I'll get us started.

I haven't climbed a lot of Beckey routes but of the few I have, I'd have to say the Direct East Buttress on South Early Winters Spire. No, the climbing isn't amazing but the position is beautiful and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Wish I had a better picture, but this should get us started.

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Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower. I saw a picture of it very early on in my climbing career, and knew one day I had to climb it. It's just one of those lines. So aesthetic.

Also, in the same ballpark as the OP, the West Face on North Early Winters was a very memorable day in the mountains for me. Can't say I've ever seen an uninspiring Beckey route.

I think my favorite goes down as the west face of NEWS. Were it not for Beckey and company nailing pins in that crux pitch it would be nails. 

Beckey's Wall in Little Cottonwood Canyon. My first trad lead and my first fall on gear, green Camalot. 

North Ridge of Baker is an ultra classic. 

Hooneymoon Chimneys.  Many forget that Fred was asked to write what would become Desert rock by Bjornstad, but declined.  You also get triple FA hero points because he did it with Layton Kor, Harvey and Annie Carter

Outer Space - Thanks Fred Becky! 

RIP Fred.

who gets his black book?

The Becky Route, you know the one up “the obvious gully”

The GOAT will live on!

Triple overhangs in lone peak cirque.

Mt Baker - North Ridge.  Just an awesome alpine climb! Glad that I didn't have to chop steps like Fred and co did.

Angel's Crest in Squamish is pretty dope.

slc.underscore.dan wrote:

RIP Fred.

who gets his black book?

no "real" black book, it was all in his head supposedly

Does anyone know of a actual list that has been published other than the cascades one?

Did he ever do any FA's in Red Rock?

While I thoroughly enjoyed the West Face of NEWS, I'd have to say the West Ridge of Forbidden is my favorite that I've done.

just climbed my favorite Beckey route a few weeks ago.

West Face, Obelisk, Sequoia/Kings Canyon NP

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/west-face/107910308

Too many to list! But some of the same ones already listed here: 

BC on S Howser. 

W Face on NEWS.

Outer Space. 

Angel's Crest

I didn't realize he did Triple Overhangs... that's a fun one.  The Beckey-Chouinard is probably the best of his that I've done. But I'll need another 50 years of climbing to get a better sample size.

RIP Fred!  Now we can start using the phrase 'There are old climbers, and bold climbers, but no old-bold climbers.' again.  

The West Ridge of Forbidden is such a classic and while I have fond memories of that I would have to vote for the West Ridge of Prusik Peak. That's because we did it in a style that Fred would have approved of. We did the Enchantments crossing via Aasgard - Prusik & Nada Passes, in a long day, climbing the West Ridge as part of that. It was a long day but one of the most memorable ever. I'd post a photo but they are all slides, haven't yet digitized them.

Eric Hardee wrote:

The West Ridge of Forbidden is such a classic and while I have fond memories of that I would have to vote for the West Ridge of Prusik Peak. That's because we did it in a style that Fred would have approved of. We did the Enchantments crossing via Aasgard - Prusik & Nada Passes, in a long day, climbing the West Ridge as part of that. It was a long day but one of the most memorable ever. I'd post a photo but they are all slides, haven't yet digitized them.

Was the West Ridge of Prusik a Beckey FA? It makes sense that it would be, but I remember getting into a debate with some friends about it a few months ago and learning that Beckey didn't FA the West Ridge, but he did FA Prusik from the east side. I could be remembering things incorrectly though...