Opinions on cold weather Action Suit options

Beean wrote:

It looks like the Canadians have a great marketing department, ehhhh der bud!!!

Eh der bud, you right on dat! Them Canucks got great donuts at Timmies that's under a Loonie. Best place to get em is at The 6ix, but I'm more of a Pemby guy... LoL!

Seth Kane wrote:

I think you're kind of missing the point of an action suit.

"Generally" following this:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.ca/2011/10/alpine-uniform-aka-action-suit.html

and this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3533

GearGuy 316 wrote:

Thanks all for the great suggestions and opinions. In short, have multiple Action Suits depending on whatever cold weather forecast is for the day or days you plan to go, and "generally" layer lightly for "Action", keeping in mind that each of us run hot, warm or cold.

It looks like the Canadians run very cold, and love climbing in Option 3+, ehhhh!!!

Check out this Arc'teryx Alpha IS promo video and Option 3+ layering used 35 seconds in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=171&v=zQvBkSNByQo

Option 3+:
Baselayer - looks like a black quarter zip shirt
Midlayer 1 - looks like an Arc'teryx long sleeve quarter zip shirt. Maybe a Rho LT
Midlayer 2 - easily recognizable Arc'teryx Fortrez Hoody
Insulating Shell - Arc'teryx Alpha IS (same Goretex bonded to 92 g/m2 highly water resistant insulation used in Fission SL + 65g/m2 of same highly breathable insulation used in Proton LT = 157 g/m2 of super Canadian warmth eh!)

It's just as cold in the Northeast as in the Canadian Rockies and I wouldn't ever wear an insulated Goretex shell outside the ski resort, no matter what dead bird and Gadd are attempting to market. 

You'll notice he changes before climbing, probably because his layers are a sweaty mess under that thing. "Action suits" should be breathable, Goretex is not. 

I'm also slightly skeptical of the reported weather since he's approaching bare handed, has no face protection and proceeds to take his shirt off (all pretty high on the list of shit I wouldn't be doing in windy/exposed subzero conditions). 

I’ve been in the Canadian Rockies down to -25F. I’ll wear a midlayer under a Gortex shell or two midlayers for that weather. An insulated Gortex shell is kind of a weird option and doesn’t seem very versatile outside the ski resort. 

You’re going to need a midlayer and a shell regardless. There is no need to buy a midlayer+shell jacket on top of that. 

STOP SAYING ACTION SUIT.

jdejace wrote:

You'll notice he changes before climbing, probably because his layers are a sweaty mess under that thing. "Action suits" should be breathable, Goretex is not. 

I think Captain Adventure should have used the "fishnet" baselayer that Nick Drake was referring to earlier.

Regardless of his 4 layer super duper Action Suit, sorry I meant, his 4 layer super duper term-that-should-not-be-named ;-) Gadd is an awesome climber!

Chris C. wrote:

Chris' Cold Weather Getup:
REI Workout T-shirt - I only go with the nice stuff if I am wearing it multiple days in a row.
Arcteryx Gamma MX - This softshell with a tiny bit of insulation makes for a bomber action layer.  I'll use an LT with a hooded baselayer for summer alpine activities.
Arcteryx Atom LT - This is my favorite balance of insulation, agility, and robustness.  
Arcteryx Alpha LT or SVX - The LT mostly stays in my pack; it's lighter and smaller than the AR.  I take the SVX if I know things are bad.

To clarify, for your Cold Weather Getup, based on the order listed, do you use the Atom LT over the Gamma MX?

I would think that it would be the Gamma MX over the Atom LT, as the Atom LT hood goes under the helmet and the Gamma MX hood goes over the helmet and is more weather resistant and more durable than the Atom LT.

Alpha LT or SVX over the other 3 layers when things get really nasty. 

GearGuy 316 wrote:

To clarify, for your Cold Weather Getup, based on the order listed, do you use the Atom LT over the Gamma MX?

I would think that it would be the Gamma MX over the Atom LT, as the Atom LT hood goes under the helmet and the Gamma MX hood goes over the helmet and is more weather resistant and more durable than the Atom LT.

Alpha LT or SVX over the other 3 layers when things get really nasty. 

I actually wear the Atom LT over the Gamma MX/LT. I like the Gammas to be my primary layer (Action layer!!). I can usually get away with just wearing that for most of the day. I buy them fitted to be right over my baselayer, so not baggy whatsoever. 

Only when things get cold and I still need to be moving will I throw on the Atom over that. If it’s pretty technical climbing and I’ll be scraping around rock, I’ll carry two Atoms. If it’s less rocky or I feel that I probably won’t need a 2nd insulator, I’ll carry a Mountain Hardwear Ghostwhisperer. The outer material of the Atom seems to hold up well, I’m always impressed by it. 

If I am going up to higher altitudes (20,000’ish) I’ll bring my Outdoor Research Floodlight as a 2nd insulator and sub in the Ghostwhisperer as the 1st. The Floodlight is not an “ultralight”, but when weather hits the fan up high it’s nice to have.   

Here is my full rundown and the order that I layer them:

• Baselayer
• Gamma LT or MX
• Atom LT
• Alpha SL
• Atom LT or Ghostwhisperer
• Floodlight

Didn't have time to read the whole thread, but check out the NW Alpine Salopettes and their hooded softshell. They've changed my whole system for alpine, ice climbing, and ski touring. I got the thinner softshell ones (not the neoshell, although a friend of mine has those). They are great for ski touring and glacier slogs with minimal clothing underneath, can be paired with thin long undies for alpine, and paired with thick fleece bottoms and R1 for ice cragging. I throw an arcteryx puffy on over that for belays.

Salopettes are great - pants don't fall down, snow doesn't get inside, they are naturally warmer, things stay tucked in, etc. Also the flap for pooping is really convenient

I'm starting to think this is just an ad for Arc'Teryx.

I'm also going to call every outfit I wear outside an Action Suit from now on.

Eplumer400 wrote:

I'm starting to think this is just an ad for Arc'Teryx.

I'm also going to call every outfit I wear outside an Action Suit from now on.

LOL. I have an action suit for almost everything I do, except my favorite action, where I don't wear a suit.....

cragmantoo wrote:

LOL. I have an action suit for almost everything I do, except my favorite action, where I don't wear a suit.....

I wear a birthday suit for that action. 

Max Rausch wrote:

STOP SAYING ACTION SUIT.

Action suit

Danomcq wrote:

That sound pretty EXTREME

Nick Drake wrote:

That sound pretty EXTREME

It sounds to me like you're making twight of the situation...

AlpineIce wrote:

Honestly, a long sleeve synthetic or merino with a Nano-Air Hoody or Proton LT Hoody will take you pretty far. 

I've found the best mid layer to be Patagonia's Nano-Air Light Hoody.  Patagonia hit a grand slam with this piece.

Have you tried the Black Diamond First Light Hoody or the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hoody, and compared them to the Patagonia Nano Air Hoody and Nano-Air Light Hoody respectively?

I'm wondering if Black Diamond's choice of breathable fabrics and insulation offers better breathability, durability and similar warmth as Patagonia Nano line.

GearGuy 316 wrote:

Have you tried the Black Diamond First Light Hoody or the Black Diamond First Light Hybrid Hoody, and compared them to the Patagonia Nano Air Hoody and Nano-Air Light Hoody respectively?

I'm wondering if Black Diamond's choice of breathable fabrics and insulation offers better breathability, durability and similar warmth as Patagonia Nano line.

Unfortunately, I've never worn any of the active insulation pieces from Black Diamond.  I've never heard or read anything negative about them, but I think they're a little heavier than any of Patagonia or Arc'teryx's options.

From what I have seen, the BD pieces seem to be a little more durable but a little more heavy. 

I've laid hands on Proton, Nano Air and Firstlight. The BD shell is thin nylon like you'd find on a typical puffy jacket. It's cheaper than the others, and I like the helmet compatible hood (come on, Patagonia!), but it didn't fit me. The Proton seems the most durable to me and has a helmet compatible hood, that would be my choice for climbing. The Nano Air was most stretchy/comfy, I'd use for winter backpacking.