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Is webbing an acceptable pas?

Original Post
Ron Bachman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hi, I normally see personal anchors made of a runner girth hitched to your harness and then girth hitched to a carabineer. 

I was wondering if webbing would be considered a safe personal anchor system. 

Likely if I tied a piece directly to my harness and made a loop on the other end for a carabineer. 

Is that considered legit? Thanks 

IcePick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 100

Personally my PAS has always and will always be a thick ass loop of 1” webbing Girthed to the harness.

End

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Ron Bachman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

You say loop. Would it only be acceptable in a loop? Would a single piece with loops on each end not be okay?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

Yes

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product/1-tubular-climb-spec-x-100-yds/

Tensile Strength: 4,000 lbf. (17.7 kN)

Formally it is way more then enough.

david · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 106

Yep. Just keep in mind if you use a water knot to leave enough tail, and that the knot will slip under cyclical loading:

http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/news/cops_courts/knot-slip-likely-killed-falk/article_3e912c8f-059b-5a84-ae95-3c4e13f8d23e.html

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

Personally I use sewn runners for my slings as well as my PAS when i'm on the way down.  Idk they just aren't that expensive.  The above article is reason enough. 

Yes water knots are safe if checked and left with tails.  Yes it's strong enough.  I've got buddies who climb on tied slings.  I climb on sewn.  Idk a sewn double length nylon sling is like 8 bucks.  My racks are stored on tied nylon and i've had tails creep through water knots.  8 bucks is worth the peace of mind IMO.

Edit: I try not to be dogmatic about these opinions though.  If i'm setting up my little sister/friend e.t.c. I'm gonna recommend sewn slings.  I'm not gonna chew someone out if they're using tied (as long as they know the limitations)

IcePick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 100
David wrote:

Yep. Just keep in mind if you use a water knot to leave enough tail, and that the knot will slip under cyclical loading:

http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/news/cops_courts/knot-slip-likely-killed-falk/article_3e912c8f-059b-5a84-ae95-3c4e13f8d23e.html

Yes this ^

AND dress, preload and tighten the you know what out of the knot thoroughly before use.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Ron Bachman wrote:

Hi, I normally see personal anchors made of a runner girth hitched to your harness and then girth hitched to a carabineer. 

I was wondering if webbing would be considered a safe personal anchor system. 

Likely if I tied a piece directly to my harness and made a loop on the other end for a carabineer. 

Is that considered legit? Thanks 

Don't girth it to the biner, just girth it to the harness and clip a biner to it, less knots / girth hitches the better.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Or better use CE EN 354:2010 compartible fall arrest lanyards (e.g., Petzl Progress).

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Do not use a rubber band or any sort of "keeper" for the carabiner end:

https://vimeo.com/29836772

Ron Bachman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

To avoid girth hitching, what are thoughts about using a quick link to attach a sling to harness?

Eliminates all girth hitches and the only downside would be the extra weight, right?

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

Whats everyone's beef with the prussik PAS? I've been using it for years. 7mm static. I make a new one every few months. Literally costs $5. Gets way less tangled in your rack than a daisy style.

 
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Ron Bachman wrote:

To avoid girth hitching, what are thoughts about using a quick link to attach a sling to harness?

Eliminates all girth hitches and the only downside would be the extra weight, right?

When I TR solo I have one device on a biner and the other on a short dogbone that's on quicklink through both hard points for the other device. I did this to keep distance for my backup device.

So I haven't used it for a PA, but can say a quicklink in the way when you tie and clipping a biner on to belay. 

Just girth to your belay loop or tie in points. It's working fine thousands of times a day all over the world. Don't let the stupid articles about Todd Skinner scare you.

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Max Rausch wrote:

Whats everyone's beef with the prussik PAS? I've been using it for years. 7mm static. I make a new one every few months. Literally costs $5. Gets way less tangled in your rack than a daisy style.

 . 

Too uncomfortable to wear as a gym thong. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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