|
B Owens
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 60
This may be a strange question, but humor me. If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is?
|
|
Creed Archibald
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,016
5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek.
|
|
Jon Frisby
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 290
|
|
Mark Says
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Basalt, CO
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 395
Bowens wrote:If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is? Whatever the guide book says it is.
|
|
B Owens
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 60
Mark Waterous wrote:Whatever the guide book says it is. There's no guidebook for hypothetical climbs.
|
|
GabeO
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Boston, MA
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 302
Creed A wrote:5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek. Maybe you're joking, and certainly you're trolling, but I'll bite. I can think of plenty of 5.9s at the Creek that are way more involved and tricky than the climb described by the OP that are rated 5.9. Can you give an example of a 5.10 at the Creek that's that straightforward? Anyway... My answer: 5.9- GO
|
|
Mark Says
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Basalt, CO
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 395
Bowens wrote:There's no guidebook for hypothetical climbs. Darnit, I meant to say hypothetical guidebook.
|
|
Tapawingo Markey
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Reno?
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 75
|
|
Nick Sweeney
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 969
How long is this crack? 10 feet? 60 meters?
|
|
B Owens
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 60
Mark Waterous wrote:Darnit, I meant to say hypothetical guidebook. That's a different story, then. The hypothetical guidebook gives it a hypothetical grade of [insert grade here].
|
|
B Owens
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 60
Nick Sweeney wrote:How long is this crack? 10 feet? 60 meters? Let's say 20 meters. Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is).
|
|
rafael
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Berkeley, CA
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 35
20 meters? 5.9. Add a bit of overhang, or wide or thin, you get into 5.10 territory. Less than 20 meters of 90 degrees, 5.8 or 5.7, depending on how short the steepest part is
|
|
Trad Princess
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Not That Into Climbing
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 1,175
Bowens wrote:Let's say 20 meters. Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is). We've got a similar crack at our gym, but it's snug hands for me at the bottom, and opens up to loose hands at the top. They call it 5.9. I'd say that's probably correct, 5.8 for difficulty and then +1 grade for the Hepatitis C.
|
|
Shepido
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
CO
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 50
5.9X - Made of very soft desert sandstone thus rendering the hypothetical crack protectable with only mental pro
|
|
Pavel Burov
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Russia
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 50
Bowens wrote:This may be a strange question, but humor me. If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is? 5.hypothetical
|
|
Ted Pinson
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
|
|
B Owens
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 60
Addem Bursh wrote:We've got a similar crack at our gym, but it's snug hands for me at the bottom, and opens up to loose hands at the top. They call it 5.9. I'd say that's probably correct, 5.8 for difficulty and then +1 grade for the Hepatitis C. Vertical Hold or Mesa Rim? If I am vaccinated does that mean it's just 5.8?
|
|
Nick Sweeney
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 969
Bowens wrote:Let's say 20 meters. Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is). Well if it's in a gym, who cares?
|
|
rafael
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Berkeley, CA
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 35
Nick Sweeney wrote:Well if it's in a gym, who cares? because maybe someone wants to know how it would compare to a climb outside? Thats what grades are for, to be able to compare route difficulty. Oh right, ratings are to stoke ones ego, I forgot
|
|
Pnelson
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 635
Creed A wrote:5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek. This is the end of the thread, right here. Case closed.
|
|
Mark Says
·
Oct 12, 2017
·
Basalt, CO
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 395
Nick Sweeney wrote:Well if it's in a gym, who cares? Didn't I just see you at Wild Walls? Yep. Pretty sure I saw you.
|