Grade of Hypothetical Crack Climb


Original Post
Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60

This may be a strange question, but humor me.  

If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is?  

Creed A · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 775

5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek. 

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100

5.7

Mark Waterous · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 385
Bowens wrote:

If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is?  

Whatever the guide book says it is.

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Mark Waterous wrote:

Whatever the guide book says it is.

There's no guidebook for hypothetical climbs.

GabeO · · New Haven, CT · Joined May 2006 · Points: 301
Creed A wrote:

5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek. 

Maybe you're joking, and certainly you're trolling, but I'll bite.  I can think of plenty of 5.9s at the Creek that are way more involved and tricky than the climb described by the OP that are rated 5.9.  Can you give an example of a 5.10 at the Creek that's that straightforward?

Anyway...

My answer:  5.9-

GO

Mark Waterous · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 385
Bowens wrote:

There's no guidebook for hypothetical climbs.

Darnit, I meant to say hypothetical guidebook.

Tapawingo Markey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

I'm going to go with C.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650

How long is this crack? 10 feet? 60 meters?

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Mark Waterous wrote:

Darnit, I meant to say hypothetical guidebook.

That's a different story, then.  The hypothetical guidebook gives it a hypothetical grade of [insert grade here].  

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Nick Sweeney wrote:

How long is this crack? 10 feet? 60 meters?

Let's say 20 meters.  

Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is).  

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

20 meters? 5.9. Add a bit of overhang, or wide or thin, you get into 5.10 territory. Less than 20 meters of 90 degrees, 5.8 or 5.7, depending on how short the steepest part is

Addem Bursh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 845
Bowens wrote:

Let's say 20 meters.  

Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is).  

We've got a similar crack at our gym, but it's snug hands for me at the bottom, and opens up to loose hands at the top.  They call it 5.9.  I'd say that's probably correct, 5.8 for difficulty and then +1 grade for the Hepatitis C.

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

5.9X - Made of very soft desert sandstone thus rendering the hypothetical crack protectable with only mental pro

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Bowens wrote:

This may be a strange question, but humor me.  

If you have a hypothetical pure crack climb that is a splitter perfect hands crack, 90 degrees vertical, that must be climbed 100% in the crack, what difficulty/grade would you say it is?  

5.hypothetical

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

5.8.

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Addem Bursh wrote:

We've got a similar crack at our gym, but it's snug hands for me at the bottom, and opens up to loose hands at the top.  They call it 5.9.  I'd say that's probably correct, 5.8 for difficulty and then +1 grade for the Hepatitis C.

Vertical Hold or Mesa Rim?  If I am vaccinated does that mean it's just 5.8?

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650
Bowens wrote:

Let's say 20 meters.  

Edit: Let's also say it's in a gym (because it is).  

Well if it's in a gym, who cares?

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Well if it's in a gym, who cares?

because maybe someone wants to know how it would compare to a climb outside? Thats what grades are for, to be able to compare route difficulty. Oh right, ratings are to stoke ones ego, I forgot

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 95
Creed A wrote:

5.9 most places. 5.10 at Indian Creek. 

This is the end of the thread, right here.  Case closed.

Mark Waterous · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 385
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Well if it's in a gym, who cares?

Didn't I just see you at Wild Walls? Yep. Pretty sure I saw you.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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