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Yosemite Multi Pitch Sport!?!
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What about Euro Trash in Tuolumne? 5.8 A0 or 10c. Multi pitch sport. |
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North dome has multi pitch sport climbs |
Nick Lozica wrote: Which routes are those? |
FrankPS wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/crest-jewel-and-crest-jewel-direct/105862890 |
Eugenel wrote: Crest Jewel is highly recommended (may be the best traditional multi-pitch friction slab route in the world) and is well protected on the harder bits. But it is not remotely a Sport Climb unless 80' run outs on 5.7 friction is "sport climbing". It is also not something I would send someone to do unless they were experienced in Yosemite or very solid climbers elsewhere due to it's remoteness and issues of approach and descent. A Yosemite Classic.  Credit: Mike Holley |
King Tut wrote: What type of pro does it take? The MP doesnt say. |
Eugenel wrote: It takes #1s, 2s, and 3s in Hopes and a couple Prayers are helpful. |
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Don't forget super burly calf muscles to get through 10 pitches of slab. |
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KayDoc wrote: Yosemite simply doesn't have those kind of routes. It's also not within a couple hours of San Francisco. If you are in San Francisco, the Bay Area has a few crags but none that have a significant amount of sport climbing. But areas like Castle Rock State park and Mount Diablo have enough for a fun day. Probably the best moderate sport climbing area anywhere near San Francisco is Pinnacles National Park. If you want to experience Yosemite climbing and you are not a trad leader, hire a guide or find a partner. This site can help you do either. |
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The thread is getting very repetitive. People keep saying the same thing - Crest Jewel - Its not a sport climb - Go to Pinnacles - Crest Jewel - its not a sport climb - Go to Pinnacles. Bwhahah! |
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Eugenel wrote: You seem confused as to what constitutes a Sport Climb v. Traditional Slab Climbing. They aren't the same brah. FFS the people that post on MP.... |
King Tut wrote: And the protection says 8 draws FFS FY |
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I just assume when someone asks about sport climbs, they don't have cams/nuts, and are asking about climbs with only bolts. Can't we just starting referring these types of climbs as "bolt protected climbs". |
Eugenel wrote: But it still isn't a sport route. |
Eugenel wrote: wow bro...just wow. Come out some time and do it. Its not some hard run out horror show by any means...But it ain't Pennsylvania either, or a sport climb. Does it ever occur to you that people that have done this climb multiple times know what they are talking about, and you don't? Do you understand there is a difference between a traditionally bolted slab climb and a sport bolted slab climb? Do you? When something is "sport bolted" it is generally safe to fall off anywhere on the route. When something is "traditionally bolted" there may (or may not) be well bolted cruxes, but the minimal number of bolts are placed that the FA party thought they could get by with. They contain sections of climbing that might result in serious injury or death if there is a fall by the leader. Taking a hundred foot fall on Crest Jewel is possible at numerous points on the route on ~5.7 ground. The route is for an experienced slab climber used to very long run outs on easier ground, not newbies to CA granite slabs. It is also a "backcountry" route with an ~2+ hour approach and not one to be having an epic on. For the grade, and by Yosemite standards, it is considered well protected, spicy on easy ground, but classic fun IF you have experience with that sort of climbing...Probably not remotely a route that someone looking for "5.9" sport climbs should necessarily hop right on. |
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Pinnacles NP? |
ClimbHunter wrote:
- - - - - - - - - - In other news: OP hasn't even returned to this thread. Let's call it guys, no more to see here until the next Yosemite 5.9 sport routes thread which should probably pop up in about three weeks |
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What about Crest Jewel? It's basically a sport climb |
