RRG Beta

I am heading to RRG area near the end of October.  What should we expect weather wise?  From what I can tell and people i have spoken to this is a good time to come. Highs in the 50s and 60s during the day.  

Which guidebook is the best to get for sport climbing?  My guess is that it depends on sectors since its divided by north and south?

This leads to which sectors are the best.  We are looking for sectors that have 5.7 to 5.13 in the same areas (primarily sport climbing this trip but were bringing gear too).  This looks very possible but I would love to hear some opinions from RRG regulars. 

Any other beta welcome

Thanks

S

Hello,

Then weather will be amazing on October. A bit cold at night but dry and cool during the day. 

The south book will be the best for sport climbing, this covers pmrp, muir, and natural bridge..

Pmrp is a great area for Amazing sport climbing of all levels. 

Miller fork is also an amazing area but it has a separate guidebook. There are less crowds and beautiful walls. 

Have fun! 

Thanks Brandon!!

I'm still a RRG newbie, but cannot recommend Miller Fork enough. It's been almost empty both times I've been over there. 

If you're bringing gear, it's worth checking out Fortress Wall in the North Gorge if only for Bedtime for Bonzo. It's a super light (5.6) 2 pitch trad route that ends with the most incredible view and a cool 100 ft rappel. The North Gorge is an entirely different guidebook, but... it's an awesome route. You could probably do just fine with MP info, but the service there was terrible for me. 

If you want 5.7 next to 5.13 with some trad thrown in, definitely check out Miller fork. Infirmary & Cooper's Cove have a good mix of sport lines. Check out Fruit Wall, Monastery, & Secret Garden for good sport & a couple fun trad lines. There is definitely a ton more at Miller Fork, but that's all I have done. Enjoy! 

+1 for the monastery. Some of the best mid 12s I've seen and such a pretty climbing environment. 

Thanks Everyone

This is great info

S

Nursery and Sanitarium may be good if you need some really easy routes right next to harder stuff. Witness the Citrus and 8133/Singularity at the Fruit Wall and Portal are along the way and should not be missed. 

In general the weather should be good. 

If you don't want to buy the south book you can get the rakkup version on a two month rental for $7. It is the same as the book. Note that in some places the new book is already out of date and missing climbs. It can be a bit harder to navigate then a book for a crag in the west because you can't actually take a picture of the whole crag and get a frame of reference. f you are mostly looking for sport just go with the south and use MP or red river climbing to figure out the north if you decide to go (there is some fun trad in the south though).

If you are there only during the weekend expect major crowds Friday-Sunday.  If you climb during the week it will be much better. 

We will be out there the 20-25th so see you at Miguel's!

Also if you ask around the gym you climb at here in CO you will find lots of knowledgeable people who this used to be their home crag or travel often enough.  

What about a month later (TG time)?

Depending on how long you will be there I would just grab the South book and stick to PMRP and Muir Valley. PMRP is loaded with difficult and moderate routes and is also next to the Chocolate Factory and the Motherload. 

Hope you have a good trip.

weather will be rad. get the new rrg south book. stay at miguels. the end

Josh Gates wrote:

What about a month later (TG time)?

its a crapshoot then....sometimes its great and you're climbing in t-shirt and other times its cold as fuck with sleet, snow, and ice. October is generally a "safer" option for sending temps but I have been out late Nov in the Red at perfection.

+1 for lagos. 

Can I piggyback here and inquire about stick clips?

Have one back here in CO, but don't think I have luggage big enough to fit it for my flight out since it's just one of the telescoping painter's poles with a spring clamp.  Is it common to just borrow one? Make a new one when I get there and try to sell it before I leave? Is stick clip rental a thing?

Colin, If you go to Muir Valley, there are usually a bunch of stick-clips to borrow for the day at the covered 'patio' at the parking lot. At most of the other popular crags there will very likely be other parties there who will let you use their stick-clips, if asked politely. At less popular crags, you can always use a fallen tree branch of appropriate length--there are usually plenty around, and some tape. Otherwise, yes, make one  there and, rather than sell it, donate for future 'stickless visitors' by leaving it at Muir, Miguels, Lago, or another obvious place.

Miller was still chossy but getting better all the time. I climbed a 5.9 trad route there and pulled off a giant horn and took a big whip, not to mention the tons of smaller things that came off as I climbed. Sport routes should be okay, but I'd look elsewhere for trad for now.

Colin Johnston wrote:

Can I piggyback here and inquire about stick clips?

Have one back here in CO, but don't think I have luggage big enough to fit it for my flight out since it's just one of the telescoping painter's poles with a spring clamp.  Is it common to just borrow one? Make a new one when I get there and try to sell it before I leave? Is stick clip rental a thing?

When we flew out to Vegas to climb Red Rocks in the spring, I just brought the end of my stick clip. I swung by a Home Depot and picked up a telescoping light-bulb changing kit. (This one. Cheaper than a painter's pole, only $21). On our last day climbing, we gave it to a local we met at the crag.

Alan Rubin wrote:

Colin, If you go to Muir Valley, there are usually a bunch of stick-clips to borrow for the day at the covered 'patio' at the parking lot. At most of the other popular crags there will very likely be other parties there who will let you use their stick-clips, if asked politely. At less popular crags, you can always use a fallen tree branch of appropriate length--there are usually plenty around, and some tape. Otherwise, yes, make one  there and, rather than sell it, donate for future 'stickless visitors' by leaving it at Muir, Miguels, Lago, or another obvious place.

+1 

Also, the natural stick stick clip works well too. Here's J-Star demonstrating the "tapeless" method. 

Alan Rubin wrote:

Colin, If you go to Muir Valley, there are usually a bunch of stick-clips to borrow for the day at the covered 'patio' at the parking lot. At most of the other popular crags there will very likely be other parties there who will let you use their stick-clips, if asked politely. At less popular crags, you can always use a fallen tree branch of appropriate length--there are usually plenty around, and some tape. Otherwise, yes, make one  there and, rather than sell it, donate for future 'stickless visitors' by leaving it at Muir, Miguels, Lago, or another obvious place.

Perfect. Thanks!

Bring rain gear and rainy day fun things. Weather could be totally splitter, or it could rain the whole time. Be prepared for anything. However, there are plenty of places that get sheltered from the rain, so you can probably find something to climb unless it's totally pissing. If the weather is totally horrible and climbing outside isn't fun, hit up LEF in Lexington. Super good gym with lead, TR and bouldering. Tell Tommy he's a chuffer, and tell Adam he's too weak to climb v3. Should get you some kind of discount, I imagine. 

Also, be aware that many climbing areas are not on public land and therefore have rules. The PMRP and MFRP are included in this. 

http://rrgcc.org/rrg-info/rrgcc-property-rules.pdf

The rub as of late is that the Graining Fork Nature Preserve AKA Roadside is getting trashed by folks who don't respect the land, and access could become even more limited in the future.

http://grainingfork.org/rules/

All that being said, know these rules and call people out if they don't follow them, as I still haven't climbed at Roadside and would like to climb there once the Sierra and I have a falling out.