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Climbing Rubber Test?
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To be clear - I asked if any tests existed, and if objective tests were possible. Did not demand or request anyone go perform a test. Definitely does not stand to reason that by asking a question on an internet forum, I should be responsible for funding a research study. |
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Well done brian your the first person to actually contribute something of worth to this thread. |
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The best rubber is the one having the most fun- Stolen |
OldAndCrotchety . wrote: weak sauce.... mtb, surf, skate, moto, ski, board mags do it all the time....so uhhhhh maybe Climbing or R&I. They make $$$$$$$$$ because people buy the magazine ...... Make a better product, if it sucks |
BigB wrote: Advertising money is where the bread and butter lies, and screwing a gear company in a review is a sure way to lose it permanently. Which explains why the magazines never give bad reviews and certainly don't do in depth reviews like the OP wants. Hence asking if the OP is willing to fund such a study. |
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I'd argue the vast majority of climbers don't need to worry about rubber at all. They should concern themselves with fit and shoe performance first. Absolutely do not buy a shoe just for the rubber. I can't believe how many people buy Five Ten shoes for the rubber only to have them fall apart after a few seasons. Once a climber has gotten to a point where their success may be more rubber dependent, they should have the experience to know what works best. Most wise old climbers will tell you something like this: C4: Softer Rubber. Best for cool/cold temps and SMEARING on small grain/crystal rock. Deforms too much on edges or larger crystals. Doubly so it tho conditions where it just melts off everything. Vibram Edge: Not as good as the pure smearing. Excels at edging and resisting deformation on larger crystals. Better in the heat. Examples - Yosemite Valley smearing = C4 Tuolumne Crystals = Edge |
Brian wrote: Here's the actual test: web.archive.org/web/2009020… It only measured the coefficient of friction which is only one element of climbing shoe rubber "stickiness". Not a meaningful study IMHO. |
Ted Pinson wrote: C4 is not very durable though and blanco has the c4 so thick to give it the edging stiffness it has. My blanco is up for a resole and I'm wondering if I should use onyxx or go with c4 again. I don't know if onyxx would ruin the shoe since it feel so different. |
kck wrote: I personally found onyxx was trash, if you want a more durable rubber but is still very sticky go for some xs grip (2 if you can get it) from what i have heard it's noticeably more durable than c4. |
baldclimber wrote: Yup. That's kinda where I started with this and had the same thought. |
that guy named seb wrote: I was really impressed by the Grip 2 on my Solutions. Lasted a lot longer than I expected. |
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Found at least some more rounded testing info from a few companies, for those that are interested. Kinda what I expected; companies testing their own proprietary blends and that's it. But at least gives some more factors to compare. |
mkclimb wrote: Interesting that they both list the durometer of the rubber compounds, they are both on the "a" scale, it's a standardized test, so you should be able to draw direct comparison. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer
Interesting that C4 is right up there with XS edge on the hardness scale, that wasn't the result I was expecting. Clearly there is more to it than just how far a metal spike pokes into the rubber. |
that guy named seb wrote: Give it to us in small batches and see if anyone will buy it. I'd consider it. |
