Italy 2017 Via Ferrata + scrambles
|
Looks like I'm going to be spending the next few day dodging the weather back and forth between NW + NE + N Central Italy, and perhaps the Italian-speaking canton Ticino of Switerland. Today got out on the Resegone ridge -- E above Lecco, the city at the SE corner of Lake Como in central north Italy. VF Franco Silvano (N45.8565 E9.4672) was my main climbing thing for the day. * too much approach and hiking descent for not enough climbing. = . . . I suspect that nearby (more difficult) VF which offers better "payoff" of climbing versus approach + hiking descent is VF Gamma II / Ferrata del Resegone (N45.8585 E9.4605) -- but I haven't tried that one yet - - > but now see below. Looking like say +100 vertical meters over 1.5 km distance from top of funivia / lift, to get perhaps as much as +400m vertical of climbing. Then 2.2 km return to lift top station. I also did VF Carlo Villa -- bottom (N45.8634 E9.4593) / top at notch in main ridge (N45.8630 E9.4647) . (1735m), whose main use is as a descent and whose main advantage is shorter distance and less vertical. Otherwise it's just a steep hike/scramble on dirt + loose broken limestone with some harder moves with chain available to grab for aid. Some useful waypoints ... |
|
Via Ferrata del 30° Trentennale O S A What's good ... Not so good ... Special characteristics of the "interesting moves": A good number of them rely on using 4-inch-wide steel "foot-pedals" protruding from the rock in strategic places. Sometimes helps to grab one with your hand. But I felt at least half of the moves could be done (at 5.6 or less) "free" with hands + feet directly on rock, clipping the hardware only for protection. On many VF routes I try to avoid using the horizontal fixed hardware, but on this one I started enjoying the climbing more when I just gave in and just used the Aid hardware where available. Protection? The hazard of taking a long-ish fall before getting caught by one of the cable anchors is actually present on many VF routes in Italy (maybe other countries). But on other routes usually I've found that by using the Aid hardware more, I could make the difficulty of climbing easy enough so the danger didn't worry me. But a number of sections on this one made me feel I needed to use all the hardware just to keep the difficulty in the 5.4-5.6 range. And hauling on the chain wasn't so comforting, because it was much thinner than the other chains I've seen in the Italy Lakes region. Combine that with some polish on some of the limestone holds. The way for the designers to solve it would be to put more rock anchor post connections on the steel cable (not the chain). Some ways for climbers to solve it are: Have a stronger climber lead up first and belay the followers with short rope from above, or use a special Skylotec Skyrider VF kit. ... edit ... GPS - some useful waypoints: Higher above this route can continue NW hiking + scrambling (with a little climbing and a little VF support) up to a much higher summit (N45.8611 E9.3325) with a big cross, the Corno Orientale (east and lowest summit of the Corni di Canzo peaks). This is called "Sentiero Attrezzatto del 30° Trentennale O S A", which is completely separate with a very different character from the main lower route. But perhaps it is the most interesting route up to that higher summit with bigger views -- and can continue over and farther NW to a hut Rifugio S E V (N45.8644 E9.3275) with sometimes (perhaps in season or on weekends) might offer food and drink -- or anyway access to a nice trail for descent. |
|
Got out today and did two rather interesting routes above the East side of lake and city of Lecco: . . . . (You might guess that they sort of connect ... but No, not really). The German-language guidebook I have gives Gamma 1 a difficulty rating of C (on scale of A to E) and Gamma 2 D/E. Gamma 1 had something like 15 ladders on it (which I found boring) and lots of class 3+4 in between which was sufficiently interesting but not outstanding. And several exciting sequences which I could climb "free" at around 5.4-5.6. Gamma 2 had lots of exciting sequences in the 5.4-5.8 range, and no ladders. But multiple sections of class 3-4 scrambing and one long section of walking to the next harder climbing section. Might have been the most exciting VF route I've ever done. VF Gamma 1 - al Pizzo d'Erna : Good things ... Not so good: Descent: From the big cross, walk NE about 320m to the developed area (with snack bars) around the top station of the mechanical lift / "funivia". Quickest way back is to ride down the lift -- can purchase ticket at the top station (6 Euros in 2017). Walking down also works, though I don't know the best way. My best guess is start by walking NE 300m down to the pass Bocca d'Erna (N45.8663 E9.4503), then figure out which of the numbered hiking trails to follow - (likely it will work to take one toward Rifugio Stoppani). Useful waypoints: |
|
VF Gamma 2 - al Dente del Resegone : Good things ... Other things ... Approach: What worked for me was to start by the top station of the mechanical lift, called "Piani d'Erna", which is most easily reached by purchasing a round-trip ticket and riding up on the "funivia" lift. Or could reach this point by first climbing up VF Gamma 1. Then follow the waypoints given below. The point to turn left off from the main trail #1 is marked with a sign, and comes about 70m East after a cross standing on the trail, just after trail #1 curves sharp left to go E (after having gone SSE for a long way). Descent: What I did which worked well was to go down W about 120m to meet the main ridge trail #10, then N (left) 200m to a notch, then W (left) on trail #10 down steep about 500m (with some short sections with a chain to grab). Then trail curves right NW for about 800m with some rugged ups and downs to a wide grassy slope, then down this W to the pass Bocca d'Erna (N45.8663 E9.4503), then uphill 300m on road SW then S to snack bar, then turn sharp right NNW to top station of mechanical lift "funivia" - (If did not purchase round-trip return ticket earlier, can still purchase one-way-down ticket at the top station, 6 Euros in 2017). Useful waypoints . . . |
|
Grignetta / Grigna Meridionale The VF routes are mainly hiking trails with some chains and hand-rail cables, and one steep ladder. Also there is a popular non-VF route Cresta Segantini. Lots of loose rock around, and holds on the short sections I tried to cliimb "free" tended to slope the wrong way. Parking "Alte Vie delle Grigne" (N45.9107 E9.3921) . (elev ~ 1425m) above Piani Resinelli -> take Via Locatelli (turn R just before the church). Start on (unmarked) trail #8 "Direttissima di Grignetta", N then NW. The trail goes right next to dramatic towers, with great views over the big lake. Its name is a joke I guess -- it's anything but "direct". Lots of ups and downs, and goes mainly sideways across the W slope of the mountain. The broken loose rock pieces made it un-fun to walk on. First chain/cable around (N45.9161 E9.3878), a short ways farther to the steep ladder then some chains. A ways farther there's a choice between the low version of #8 which goes toward Col Garibaldi (N45.9222 E9.3799) . (elev 1824m) for a lower start on the chains of VF Cecilia, and with the Rifugio Rosalba hut a short ways W below it. I took the high version of #8 Direttissima to around Col Valsecchi (N45.9220 E9.3841) . (elev ~ 1875?), which is a start point for VF Val Scarettone (which starts by traversing NE), or for the upper part of VF Cecilia (trail #10), or for the popular non-VF route "Cresta Segantini", low 5th class following a ridge, some bolts in place help support rope-belay. Supposed to be an oasis of sound rock. I tried a bit at the start ... holds seemed to slope the wrong way ... getting late in the day with fogginess. So I quit that. Instead started up VF Cecilia / trail #10, East then SE. It had some chains, it wandered side-to-side a lot, the rock was not good, and red-paint markings for guidance between the chained sections were rather faded and difficult to find. So I gave up on that and just went back S to Parking on trail #8. Ken |
|
VF Nito Staich (Oropa Biella) Did this one this afternoon, turned out to have some interesting sequences climbing "free" in the 5.8-5.9 range on rather sound gneiss rock. With lots of positive holds, so nice gneiss. Also a bunch of other sequences in the 5.1-5.7 range climbable "free", with hands and feet directly on the rock, using the fixed hardward only for Protection, not Aid. There were about three separate sequences and a couple of other single moves where I needed to use Aid, so the percentage of "free" for me was pretty high). If you find you like this rock, there are some bolted routes for roped climbing on this same rock. More VF routes nearby: supposed to be two or three of similar difficulty and quality, but much higher farther from Parking. So usually people ride the mechanical lift / "funivia" to do those - (unlike VF Nito Staich which is well below the top station of the lift). But the lift does not run very many days outside of peak summer vacation time. So perhaps could do this VF along the way hiking up to the hut to sleep, then do other higher VF routes the next day. Length of total climbing 5th or 4th class, estimate around 125-140 meters / 420-460 feet. Protection perhaps the best I've seen on any VF route (i.e. protection in case the climber actually falls -- which is not what most VF guidebooks and websites mean by "protected"). There were lots of steel rungs / stemples which I found unnecessary for Aid -- but often I found it nice to be able to clip one for protection so I wouldn't fall so far if I failed on one of the more difficult "free" move attempts. Only a couple of times that I remember was a rung in the way of a rock hold I wanted to use. The cable-to-rock-attachment posts had a shape that would make it easy for a Leader giving a rope belay from above to provide Directional protection in situations where the route went sideways. Approach straightforward non-long (effort +200 vertical meters over 1.3 km distance from trailhead). Descent a little tricky to follow at a couple points, overall good (2.3 km distance). GPS useful waypoints: |
|
Monte Emilius (Aosta) I tried to climb this today, but high up around 2900m ran into more wind than I expected (and no sun). So I turned back just below the start of the VF. I was well-trained for the uphill and distance of the approach, well-acclimatized to altitude, wore more clothing than any previous climb on this trip -- but not enough more. Clearly you have to want this VF badly to feel the approach labor (and driving) are worth it. There's the possibility of an overnight stop to split the approach labor. But the bivouac shelter near the bottom of the VF route is just a metal can with some bunks inside. (Perhaps there's a hut within range? not sure what it's season might be -- some people recommend sleeping at the hut Rifugio Arbolle, which is not that close to the route). There was a ski lift operating, but it's not located to provide much help with getting to base of VF route (though might help to get to Rifugio Arbolle). Access is from the Pila ski resort. Main public parking (N45.6878 E7.3107) . (elev ~ 1800m) to access the approach trails, is a bit below the top of the ski resort access road (before the road goes under sustained concrete). Arguably the "real" trailhead is a tiny bit higher at (N45.6878 E7.3113), but perhaps the asphalt road leading to it is marked "private". Key first approach objective is Colle Plan Fenetre (N45.6914 E7.3385) . (2235m). (a) Start on trail 14 and 19A (gentler) -- at first S about 700m, next ENE 700m, and E 150m to join wide grassy ski run (N45.6856 E7.3217). Next up SSE 500m then gentle NE 400m up to the main hiking trail junction (N45.6824 E7.3281) northeast from upper part of ski trails and lifts. Then follow trail 16 + 20A NorthEast to trail 20 NE, long gentle to Colle Plan Fenetre. (b) Start on trail 16 - (recommended on the trail signs) -- after only 50m S from end of asphalt road, turn sharp Left (trail number painted on rock) and go NE 150m and E about 200m. Next up steep 150m SW, then curve Left and find your way roughly SE up 400m to meet trails 14 + 19A somewhere around (N45.6854 E7.3183). Next roughly E about 250m to join wide grassy ski run (N45.6856 E7.3217). Next up SSE 500m then gentle NE 400m up to the main hiking trail junction (N45.6824 E7.3281) northeast from upper part of ski trails and lifts. Then follow trail 16 + 20A NorthEast to trail 20 NE, long gentle to Colle Plan Fenetre. (c) Start on trail 141 NE toward Ermitage St Grat - (recommended in one VF guidebook) -- but before reaching that turn off onto some other trail (I'm not sure which?) up to the Colle. From Colle Plan Fenetre, steep down S then SE to trail junction (N45.6799 E7.3433) . (elev ~2125m). Here trail 14 goes roughly S (and in opposite direction will be the return trail of descent route from summit of Monte Emilius). Trail 16 goes E at first cross creek and short ups+downs, then up sustained steep, then gentle for a ways, then sustained steep up final slope to the tiny bivouac shelter "Bivacco Federico Zullo" (N45.6826 E7.3679) . (elev 2907m) at the pass at the base of the Monte Emilius NW ridge which has the first part of the VF route. That final slope has several erosion gullies. The main herd path goes to the Left (N) side of most of the deepest of those, but higher up there are two sections of the zig-zags that are badly washed out, and at least two others that are mildly washed out. Another way is to just hike up in one of the deep erosion gullies, which if dry has lots of stable medium-size stones that work like stair-steps. warning: Only try the lower sustained steep slope or final sustained steep slope when definitely dry. That's as far as I got today. ________________________________ The idea of the VF route is to climb from near the bivouac shelter up the NW ridge up near the (lower) W summit (N45.6790 E7.3746) then traverse to the (higher) E summit (N45.6789 E7.3847). Descent route is _supposed_ to be at first down S ridge to Passo Tre Cappucini (N45.6736 E7.3865) . (elev ~ 3210m). Then WSW past Lago Gelato and W to Lago Arbolle (N45.6661 E7.3465) with a hut Rifugio Arbolle nearby. Then roughly N -- soon down a steep section -- to meet trail 16 and the approach route. Ken |
|
VF del Gorbeillon (Valtournenche) * Lots of interesting thoughtful "free" rock-climbing sequences in a variety of rock situations, including two sustained face sections around 5.9. Free rock-climbing: Lots in the 5.4-5.7 difficulty range, some in 5.8-5.10. I climbed all of it "free" except for two short overhanging sequences (one of those might go free around 5.11-12). I felt well Protected climbing "free", because of the over-abundance of fixed Aid, so I would clip at least one of the leashes of my VF kit to Aid hardward (usually a rung), while the other was clipped to the cable. Somehow the abundant Aid rungs did not much get in the way of my free climbing moves. Some of the small face holds dirty or mossy: Recommend bring a nut-pick tool (or screwdriver?) to clean them. Might also want to wear rock shoes. I climbed it in my best and tightest approach shoes -- and the two sustained face sequences felt like some 5.10 -- but I'm guessing that if I'd been wearing rock shoes, would have felt less difficult. Approach: Follow good trail, at first up diagonal left, then a long horizontal traverse with some ups and downs. See signs for Via Ferrata, follow them up through talus, with some of it moved and arranged to form nice steps. Descent: Follow cable down steep NorthEast, then some hiking down, then another cable section down SouthWest, finally a long mostly-horizontal trail SW back to bottom start of VF cable. GPS useful waypoints: |
|
* lots of fun and thoughtful moves "free" rock-climbing style. I climbed this Via Ferrata "free" today. Seven years ago I was rather happy to make it up with full use of the fixed Aid. It's regarded as the hardest VF within two hours driving from Arco, with a VF rating of E on the VF difficulty scale from A to E (which has been extended to F). Back then several sections looked impossible to do without grabbing the steel cable and stepping on some the anchor posts connecting the cable to the rock. I might have believed I could climb some of the moves free -- and that's all I hoped for when I arrived this morning. I've had a lot of experience on limestone since then. And this time I wore my La Sportiva Katana Lace rock-climbing shoes (instead of approach shoes). And instead of a normal VF kit, I was using the Skylotec Skyrider, which if used properely prevents taking a fall of any signifiicant distance. I'd say maybe a couple of 5.10a moves, and good number of 5.8-5.9 in the harder sections. Also fun 5.4-5.7 stuff. But also sections of 3rd class in between the harder stuff, and the percentage seemed to rise closer to the top, until the final section was mostly a long uphill hike. Some of the rock was polished, but not a major factor (expect for the wide-ish crack that might have been one of the 5.10s due to its polish). I did take one fall, very short on a traverse when my foot blew off a slopy hold. Got back on and worked my body position better and got it the second time. There were some big pockets that to me did not look like normal limestone holds, so maybe they were chipped into the rock? I avoided some of them, used some others, at most five. So if that implies that I did not climb it all truly "free", then I accept that -- since today I wasn't expecting to come even close on most of the harder sequences. Anyway lots of fun climbing. Comparing "free" style climbing with other NE Italy / Dolomites routes: Perhaps "VF Sci Club 18" more sustained interesting with wider variety of rock situations, but more loose rock and less scenic. Perhaps "VF Cesco Tomaselli" not as much variety of rock situations, but the long dihedral is rather good free, and bigger scenery on (much longer) approach. Approach: First up a little, then long gentle E, then up a ways, then NE and some zig-zags roughly NNW, finally SW to bottom start of cable. Climb: Lower half mixes straight-up sections with traverse horizontal left or diagonal up left. Upper half has a long uphill walk generally W before reaching summit ridge. Descent: Wide dirt trail down from summit bench overall NNW but with some big zig-zags, to meet asphalt road. Sign for "Sarche" indicates go R (NNE) on road (though there are rumors of a short steep difficult trail toward the L). Soon about 300m meet R turn with sign for "Sarche". Or continue another 130m farther (and up a little) to a three-way fork and take R fork down (roughly E) to meet another road. Go R down this, overall ESE but with many zig-zags, to meet main highway just W of Castel Toblino at the shore of the lake. If did not spot a bike (or car) here (or at the Sport-climbing crags up the steep asphalt road), finish by run/walk alongside highway west for a mile flat, back to Parking. . . (If truly lazy about the descent, could advance spot a bike or car high in village of Ranzo. Drive car up by way of village of Lon. But that's a lot of extra driving / set-up time just to avoid 460 vertical meters of easy downhill). Statistics: GPS useful waypoints: |
|
Fennberg klettersteig . (also called Via Ferrata Favogna) Did this one today . . . Allows a bike/car shuttle to avoid the descent (or shorten the descent). Without setting up a shuttle, there's no advantage to choosing this route. If looking for interesting climbing, whether Free or by fixed Aid, this route is not it. One steep section with steel rungs / stemples did not have any cable to clip for protection. So for protection instead I clipped some of the rungs. Descent trail #3 from high village of Fennberg down to valley town of Margreid is a single-lane road, much of it rather steep. Some dirt/sand/gravel, then lower part asphalt. Easy to run down if accustomed to going down steep. But then if did not spot a bicycle (or car) in the town or partway up the asphalt road which is the lower descent route, still need to walk or run 3.9 km / 2.5 miles S to get back to Parking. I think if Sharon wanted to do this as an uphill-only hike, I'd do the main lower climbing section together with her, up to the nice viewpoint around (N46.2591 E11.2042) . (elev ~ 550m). I would then down-climb the lower section (with its ladders) back to bottom Parking, while Sharon continued hiking + scrambling to the top. Then I'd drive the car north and up around to the high village of Fennberg, and wait for Sharon to arrive around (N46.2701 E11.1922) where the VF trail meets the end of an asphalt road. She would then get a ride back down to the valley. Statistics: GPS useful waypoints: |
|
? VF Sandro Pertini ? Unexpected sunshine this morning. So I dug some info out of my German-language guidebooks, and this one looked promising, Drove to the parking, noticed that the VF was not shown on any of the maps posted near the trailhead. Started hiking up, ran into a sign in three languages that said that VF Sandro Pertini had been closed and removed. It was located NE from the town of Wolkenstein / Selva Gardena. So I went back to the car and stared at the guidebooks some more, and decided to drive up toward the Sella Pass and . . . |
|
VF Mesules / Pössnecker klettersteig -- over 100 years old Started up the VF climbing in "free" style through the hardest section (as rated for VF-aid-style climbing) ... up to the first ladder (about 75 vertical meters). But I knew I wouldn't have time for the normal descent, and the sun was long gone, and my fingers were really cold from contact with the rock, so I decided to stop. Went back down the cable, now using maximum Aid, to the bottom. It started snowing a little on my back to the Parking, and within an hour later it was raining. * lots of moves in free rock-climbing style around difficulty 5.5 (as far as I got). Approach: Parking at Sella Pass. Trail 649 starts from a little bit on NW side of pass, goes (nice wide) NE about 1.3 km to VF bottom. Climb: Steep and sustained from 20 feet off the ground. Cable seemed a little thicker than on some other Dolomites VF routes, so easier to grab for Aid. After the initial steep section, the route goes up a narrow (loose) steep gully, with no cable. It did have a couple of steel rungs for Aid (which I did not use), though I did clip them for protection. Then I reached the ladder, which I did use for Aid, but then stopped. Descent: I did not do the normal route. Usually I do not plan to down-climb a VF because it's impolite to other climbers. This time there were no other climbers. I found that the tightness of the cable made it feel not so difficult to go downward, hanging out on the cable "batman" style made my feet work well on the rock footholds (and there are also steel posts for feet in this most difficult VF section). GPS useful waypoints: |
|
VF Burrone di Mezzocorona / Tullio Giovanelli Sharon and I did this route (second time) yesterday afternoon. * remarkable gorge hiking * remarkable mist waterfall * not much VF climbing: several somewhat-interesting ladders or ladder-like rungs, and some hand-rails in steep hiking/scrambling sections. * lots of additional effort and time required to get to and from the remarkable gorge + waterfall. * low variation / "variante" (trail 505A) is just a long ladder alongside waterfall w pool at bottom * mechanical lift ("funivia") for descent - (but check schedule of the day for gaps). * funivia lift bottom station is 3 km flat from trailhead Parking * well-marked Approach and Return-to-funivia routes. Approach: trail 505 up left NW 125m to junction. For Variante go Left on 505A (NW then N flat 70m, then up NE 30m, then climb ladders, and horizontal R to rejoin main route). To go direct to the main gorge route, bear Right on 505, then up 125m N - NE - N to junction (N46.2288 E11.0966). Cable horizontal to left is top return from Variante, so instead take non-cable trail up steep Right. Up and up generally NE 130m with many switchbacks and some cable hand-rails, then a short ladder and reach bottom start of the main gorge route with cable going up into dark passage. Climb: Start following cable under roof into the dark passage with high walls on both sides, and (usually) some water flowing. Down a short ladder, across the water stream and up steep rungs (crux of this route), soon traverse a ways right. Next long uphill walk inside the gorge, perhaps getting feet wet, or some scrambly moves to avoid getting feet wet (hiking poles will likely help step across some water). Emerge from dark passage onto steep scree/talus. From here on overall idea is to follow the water, and in detail follow red paint marks. So after a ways up on the scree/talus, get off it to left to follow the water. After a ways reach a very high waterfall accompanied by mist. Up more with some scrambling and metal rungs and steel cable to grab. Then a ladder, and a little more scrambing to the end of the cable. Descent: We did it by hiking up and overall SE to the top station of the mechanical lift ("funivia") which at the low SE side of the little village of Monte di Mezzocorona, rode that down into the NW side of city of Mezzocorona, then Ken ran 3 km W + NW back to trailhead Parking and retrieved the car, while Sharon had a snack. Apparently there is also a way to walk down to the trailhead parking, but we didn't try that. Follow trail with red+white paint marking about 350m ESE at first up a gully, then cross a dirt road, more up, then horizontal. Next 250m SW including a short ways on dirt road, then 130m SE to meet (N46.2306 E11.1033) a better-maintained dirt/gravel road. Right (S) on this past building (Bait dei Manzi) to a junction with the trail 506. Continue on road (now trail 506) SE 800m with yet more uphill. Then curve L + R + L and come to first house of the village of Monte. Next E 130m to fork and trail junction. Bear slightly R (ESE) 300m up through some houses past a park, finally turn R (S) down 100m to the top station of the funivia lift. We had to wait a while for the next operation of the lift, then we rode down this, and at the bottom station pay 5 Euro each. Then walk S 170m down the rather steep (40 vertical meters) street to roundabout with gelato shop and coffee shop - where Sharon waited while Ken retrieved the car. Statistics: GPS useful waypoints |
|
VF Jubiläumssteig in Austria (VF = German "klettersteig") . . GPS latitude longitude approx (N47.5560 E12.3153) . . N above Ellmau in the Wilder Kaiser mountain group in the Kaisergebirge, . . about 45 km north of the Italy-Austria border, . . about 60 km ENE from city of Innsbruck, about 25 km from Rosenheim, Germany. Easy cable-aided/protected VF route with some exposure and great views, and huts serving snacks and drinks near each end. One ladder. Many people do it without a Via Ferrata kit, using the cable mainly as a hand-rail. Several other spectacular shorter hikes from the same parking or one or both of the same huts, if other members of the party don't want to try the VF. Could also use the VF route to access higher hiking and scrambling. Obvious higher objective is the Ellmauer Tor pass . (N47.5659 E12.3213) . (elev 1981m) - (also a very popular ski mountaineering tour). Above E from that pass is the Hintere Goinger Halt peak (2192m). If reaching that seemed too easy, can continue over and up to the Vordere Goinger Halt peak (2242m). Katrin and Gi and I did it in the counter-clockwise direction (NE -> SW), after first hiking up from Wochenbrunner Alm parking to the Gaudeamushütte ("Gaudeamus hut") (and Sharon joined us for that far), and used the VF to take us to the Gruttenhütte ("Grutten hut"). Doing it in the other (clockwise) direction allows taking the (not-so-difficult) ladder in the upward direction, then a smoother downhill finish from the hut afterward. GPS useful waypoints: * Parking - hiking trailhead (and meals + drinks) Wochenbrunner Alm . (N47.5412 E12.3190) . (elev 1080m). * quicker start on trail (dirt road) up to Gaudeamus hut ... . . . from high N corner of parking . (N47.5422 E12.3191) * Gaudeamus hut with snacks + drinks . (N47.5493 E12.3244) * NE end of VF Jubilaeumsteig . (N47.5584 E12.3181) . . . junction with trail from Gaudeamus hut up to Ellmauer Tor pass * SW end of VF Jubilaeumsteig at Grunner hut . (N47.5538 E12.3111) |
|
sport crag: Valle Gorduno area A - (south Switzerland) . . Not Italy, but in the Italian-language Ticino canton of Switzerland, . . and 50 km N from Como Italy. . . GPS latitude longitude approx (N46.2214 E9.0123) . . about 4 km N from city of Bellinzona, Switzerland . . Not via ferrata, but about 5 km from a VF route. Lots of climbs in the 4b - 6b range on granitic gneiss rock. Today Sharon and I climbed on the low slab (N46.2212 E9.0126) S of the other two cliffs in area A. Filidor Plaisir Sud guidebook is what we used. Very interesting slab climbing on pretty rock with excellent friction. Just a minute's walk from the Parking (N46.2210 E9.0120) with only a small number of spaces. South-facing but shaded. The road is asphalt as far as area A, but mostly rather narrow single-lane with pull-outs. So if meet another vehicle, might need to back up a long ways (uphill?). That along with the limited parking might suggest avoiding weekends and holidays. Valle Gorduno Area B is supposed to be 4 km farther up the road. |
|
sport crag: Ponte Brolla - (south Switzerland) Sharon and I climbed first pitches of routes by left end of sector C (Filidor guidebook) of Castelliare area. Filidor Plaisir Sud guidebook is what we used. Approach to Castelliare sectors: From the main road bridge at (N46.1863 E8.7532), go N 50m then curve Left (W) and immediately exit Right onto small road. Soon turn Right across railroad track and go NorthEast 250 meters to where bike trail turns Right, then N another 20m to Grotto America restaurant. See steep stairs up along left side of restaurant, and turn Left up those, about 50m W. Then trail gets gentle, roughly WSW for 150m, then scramble down a little, then up a little bearing right, then gentle on wide rocky trail alongside stone wall about 100m West. Then up right 20m NW to meet slab with bolts (N46.1884 E8.7516), which is the low part of sector B. Next up along base of slab ENE about 50m first on rock then dirt. NW another 20m then bear left (N) and scramble up to fixed rope. Up this to base of cliffs with bolts, which is the left end of the lower part of sector C, near the climbing route "Wim". GPS useful waypoints: |
|
VF di Camoglieres - in Cuneo province of region Piemonte. Did this very difficult via ferrata this afternoon. Very good "French style" route. "French style" meaning lots of hardware (rungs and rigid hand-rails) other than the cable (which usually was not taut like often in the Dolomites). "Very difficult" meaning several overhanging sections -- so I'd say there were several individual moves felt like 5.4 or 5.5 even with using all the fixed hardware for Aid. And steep sequences so sustained that I'd say it really ought to be rated 5.6 -- even assuming you hang to rest at some of the rock-to-cable attachment points. * Dramatic rock situations and scenes. Protection (against actually falling): Approach: Climb: Three steep cable sections then walk up to a mini-summit. Down 50m N to junction with escape trail, next 100m NE first down some more, then up to the 4th steep cable section, finishing to a mini-summit -- then steep cable and rungs down to gentle spot with trail junction (another escape). Next follow sign "Ponte Sui Cavi" to see cables to right (SE) and down those a little to discover a cable bridge W to E. Crossing the bridge is cleverly designed to be unstable yet not out of control. Immediately meet the return / descent trail, but go up this 70 m N then NE then E and find the final steep cable section -- perhaps the most difficult. Then walk N 30m up following the cable to another mini-summit. Next ENE 110m down a little then up to another junction with the return / descent trail. Up this 100m first E to a great viewpoint then N to the summit of the Crocetta Soprana (elev 1410m). Descent: Follow the signs. Mostly nice trail with a couple of steep or exposed sections with cable. Tends to go much E or S from the route of the approach and climb (except at the points where it meets the approach or climb). GPS useful waypoints: |
|
VF dei Funs di Entracque (or "Ico Quaranta") - in Cuneo province of region Piemonte. Did this difficult via ferrata this afternoon. Pretty good "French style" route. "French style" meaning lots of hardware (rungs and rigid hand-rails) other than the cable (which usually was not taut like often in the Dolomites). "Difficult" meaning several overhanging sections -- so I'd say there were several individual moves felt like 5.3 or 5.4 even with using all the fixed hardware for Aid. And steep sequences so sustained that I'd say it really ought to be rated 5.5 -- even assuming you hang to rest at ome of the rock-to-cable attachment points. Not as much very steep strenuous climbing as "VF di Camoglieres", but perhaps a bit more interesting moves. * Some steep even overhanging climbing, some dramatic exposure. warning: Much of the walking between VF cable sections on steep slopes slippery with dirt and leaves -- so perhaps this route is not a good choice with possible rain, or the day (or two) after rain. Protection (against actually falling): Approach: Follow the signs. After about 1 km on forest road up roughly East, the forest road starts downward, curves right over bridge (SW) and meets another forest road. Key is to turn sharp Left here and go NE up another 1 km, then sharp turn S and soon see sign to leave main trail and head up left to bottom start of VF part 1. Climb: Variation to R side high on first part of VF is more interesting. Long walk roughly SE 200m up steep + slippery (marked with light yellow paint) to start of second part. There is an escape trail to right (also steep and slippery) which meets the descent route at a trail sign which does not say it's the descent trail. First VF section of second part not so interesting. Then a short walk, then the next VF more interesting, then finishes with interesting traverse to a short easy bridge. Finally scramble/hike up to crest of ridge. Next walk about 220m first SE then S (marked with light yellow paint) to the highest summit around. Descent: Follow the cable, with two steep VF down-climb sections with rungs. Second lower VF section more interesting because rungs sparse, so need to think about placement of feet on the rock. Remainder of descent trail is marked with light yellow paint -- except where it's not . . . warning: Two points on descent where the wrong way is well-beaten and the right way is not well-marked: GPS useful waypoints: |
|
VF degli Artisti - 13 km WNW from Finale Ligure Fun reddish (quartizite?) rock with big positive holds mostly on a long ridge with some short steep-ish sections. A bit strange because it's like two different adjacent routes very close. One is a popular Via Ferrata with an over-abundance of steel rungs and handrails, with a steel cable sometimes for protection but often for navigation. Often given a VF difficulty rating of C or C/D on a VF-specific A to F scale. The "other" route is fun + interesting free climbing and scrambling with hands and feet directly on the rock, alongside the steel hardware, often clipping the rungs and handrails for protection of the more difficult moves. Difficulty much 3rd / 4th class, much low 5th class, some around 5.5-5.6, perhaps a couple sequences 5.8 and above if done in "free" style. Funny that the cable and rungs bypass a substantial portion of the fun scrambling and climbing. Seemed to me that this rock could have been a great introduction of athletic hikers to finding and using the many big positive holds directly on the rock. But instead the designers decided to install an over-abundance of steel rungs and handrails, to render any searching for rock holds unnecessary. Maybe the designers wanted to prove they could build a "real" French-style Via Ferrata. But I'm not going to complain, because the abundance of rungs and handrails also offers so many opportunities for good protection of free moves alongside. Likely this is no accident, but only a few times did the hardware get in the way of necessary holds on the rock for free-climbing sequences. Sometimes seemed like the rungs had been placed on the section of face with the fewest positive holds, and right next to it was a section with many positive holds -- so excellent for clipping the fixed Aid hardware for protection just a short distance away from the fun free-climbing moves. * Fairly long route. Protection (against actually falling): GPS useful waypoints: |
|
kenr wrote: These write-ups are amazing. Why am I just seeing them now? I spent a few weeks in Northern Italia last August and experienced quite a bit of thunderstorms. Who can complain, but it did narrow our climbing window to mornings as the storms seemed to roll through in the afternoon and night. Intense lightning storms were fun to watch. That was my second trip, but first VF experience. We just did Colodri in Arco. Heading back next summer and will definitely benefit from your notes! Thanks for sharing. |