Recommendations for Canadians visiting

Hey All,

My girlfriend and I will be staying in Tanque Verde outside Tucson for about 9 days this coming winter. The trip will be mixed involving climbing and mountain biking.  I currently sport climb up to 11a/b in the Canadian rockies and trad much lower grades. I was hoping somebody could provide recommendations on must climb sport routes (single and multipitch) in the area (we are willing to drive up to 2 hrs each way to find the most enjoyable routes)? In particular, I'm really keen on climbing overhanging routes or routes on the more vertical side. We have plenty of forward angled slab here at home so I'm not really looking for this style of climbing unless its required to complete on a recommended multipitch. 

Also, which guidebooks are recommended for this area? Any other info a visitor should know to get the best experience? Thank you for the information, I appreciate whatever you guys can share.

Glen

might be a little chilly:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/steves-arete/105738338

a personal favorite:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/armed-robbery/105927598

Work on those pumpy routes at the gym!  Buy Squeezing the Lemmon 3.  You might still be able to get it direct from Eric (1Eric Rhicard), and if you did he might be nice enough to give you advice about other possible winter areas like Homestead, the Dry, etc.

fyi depending on weather the road up Mt Lemmon may be closed. 

the link has a good spot if that happens 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105738043

You have to have 4x4 with high clearance but you will love Tufa City if you can get to the Homestead...https://www.mountainproject.com/v/tufa-city/105952393

I'd reccomend La Milagrosa canyon as well. It's technically just to the east of Mt Lemmon but if you're gonna be in Tanque Verde it'll be right out your back door. It's mostly vertical technical climbing with a good concentration of high quality 5.11 sport routes as well as some good warm ups that are fun in their own right. It's also a spectacularly beautiful setting. The approach is a little unclear but if you follow the directions on MP you should get there. 

Awesome, thank you for the great information so far everybody. La Milagrosa will definitely be on our list considering its proximity, in addition to steves corner and armed robbery. With regards to homestead and tufa city, we would be renting a bigger SUV so we can put our bikes in there too, do you think something with the clearance of a chevy tahoe can make it in, or are we better off walking in?

Hey Glen,

I spent a few years developing stuff at the Homestead. There is no mountain biking in that area specifically so if you are set on pulling on steep limestone in a unique setting that is the place to go but you can leave your bike in Tucson. Rent a 4x4 for a weekend and spend it climbing. I am from Alberta so I will tell you first hand that the limestone is very different then Acephale or anything in the Bow Valley for that matter. 

I would not miss the Cochise Stronghold. These high granite domes are the showcase of southern Arizona and people travel from around the country to climb them. Very unique compared to what you have in the rockies (a large J-Tree) and the season would be perfect. There is slab but it is very different than the stuff on the EEOR and it should not keep you away. I can line you up with a perfect few days down there. Picture more adventure (like a day on Cardiac Arete).

The Mt biking here does not have the soft landings like it does in the Rockies and after my first fall into cactus and multiple wheel repairs I hung up the bike. Come prepared with pliers to get the cactus out. Lots of technical stuff right around Tucson.

Let me know if you want more info

Ok Ok homestead sounds like it is a must do.  Were fine leaving the bikes for a few days. We would likely hike in, as we will be renting a chevy tahoe for the duration of our visit regardless, and don't wish to rent a second vehicle. Tufa city just looks so cool!

Your not the first person to suggest I place more attention on Cochise Stronghold, I even received a few private messages from people recommending it over mt Lemmon. So please do share what routes you could recommend for Cochise, I'm comfortable with trad up to max 5.8 in the rockies as I just started with it, and sport up to 5.11. Right now I'm like a sponge, happy to absorb any advice to make our visit count. We should have a week and a half or just a little less.

Thanks again,