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Where to climb early Sept Arizona/N. Mexico

Original Post
Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

Headed down to Carlsbad for a family trip in September and will have 4 or 5 days to climb after. Looking for suggestions of where to go climbing in the area (willing to drive 6 or more hours if needed). Clipping bolts, single pitch trad or long multi-pitch trad are all equally good (aka no pebble wrestling cause we suck at that). Typically climb in the 5.10 to 12+ range. In my mind September = hot and Arizona/N. Mexico = hot but guessing there are good options for shade/elevation. Easy car camping is also a big plus.

Thanks for the help

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Mt Lemmon has enough sport and hard trad for your range at the high elevations.  You can try Cochise if you like waking up at 2 am.

Kemper Brightman · · The Old Pueblo, AZ · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,971

yeah, I was going to recommend Lemmon as well. Certainly ticks all the boxes you mentioned. Let me know if you want recommendations for specific cliffs, good eats, etc. 

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Flagstaff will be nice enough then. Check out the Peaks area

Owen S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 3,363

Sitting Bull Falls. 1hr 15 mins away from Carlsbad. North facing, great in Sept. The 5.10s there are really good, and the 5.12s are mind blowing, among the best of the grade in the state. Have fun.

Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Also Last Chance and shady side of The Tunnel are good options. Lemmon is a haul from Carlsbad. 

Mr. Nick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

you also have granite mountain if you want some of the best climbing. 

Kemper Brightman · · The Old Pueblo, AZ · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,971
Owen Summerscales wrote:

Sitting Bull Falls. 1hr 15 mins away from Carlsbad. North facing, great in Sept. The 5.10s there are really good, and the 5.12s are mind blowing, among the best of the grade in the state. Have fun.

This place looks amazing. New Mexico really seems to be one of the most under-the-radar climbing destinations in the west.

Owen S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 3,363
Kemper Brightman wrote:

This place looks amazing. New Mexico really seems to be one of the most under-the-radar climbing destinations in the west.

Yeah, it's because no one lives here. If there was a big city within a day trip from Last Chance/Sitting Bull, this area would be world famous, I have no doubt.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

I have climbed in chochise in sept.. in the shade in the morning... still usually hot!!! Anything around flagstaff/ oak creek canyon will be good.. theirs a article in this months R&I about Taos 500+ routes from bolts to multi pitch looks very cool!!! 

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,867

World Famous...???  It's good, but...... 

Last Chance Canyon is really good.  No crowds either.  Depending on rain there will be cliffs you cannot access.

Good luck!

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

Thanks for all the recommendations!

Mark Dalen · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,002

Shoot over to the Organs for Tooth Fairy ... or N Face Sugarloaf for a real marathon day ...

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

Enchanted Tower looks good but guessing by the comments a Subaru wagon isn't gonna cut it to get in. I'll check out the others you mentioned, thanks!

Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

A Subaru will easily make it into the tower. The road is loose and steep, but really not that bad. I even saw a Yaris there (not recommended :-)). 

Dj telle · · Mexico City , Tucson, AZ · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 1,874

Abra on Rockfellow dome is a classic route/ gets lots of shade

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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