Where do I get rubber sheets for rands?
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I found a supplier of soling sheets of vibram grip, xs grip, and xs edge, but only in 3.5+ mm thicknesses. I'm looking for ~2mm sheets of climbing rubber for some rand repair. Anyone know where I can get some in the USA? |
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I don't think that they need to be made out of climbing rubber, but they often are and it seems to be the best way to do it. The fiveten kits have rands that are C4. Asid, that's ridiculously expensive. I can buy a 25"x37" sheet of rand rubber for $60 (except that the supplier is out of stock). |
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Inner tube. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: seriously though |
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Mike, is shipping going to be painful, with it coming from Ireland? Inner tube is a good idea. I'll try that if I can't find the rand rubber. |
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You can get vibram 1.8mm rand rubber from most resolers. Try Rock and Resole. No, you won't regret xs edge. Unless you're a boulderer that likes to smear more than edge. You will regret not getting your shoes resoled professionally, unless you are a professional, or a mad scientist... |
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Ask Locker. |
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As someone interested in doing my own resoling, I've wondered this as well. |
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I'm an experienced maker of things and feel confident that I can slap some rubber on my old shoes. |
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Lucky me. I called to order and the salesperson said that they do have the 1.8mm grip and 4mm XS grip sheets in stock tomorrow. So if someone wants to go in on XS edge let me know, otherwise I'm ordering XS grip |
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Update. Got an email back from Five Ten. Their offerings were a lot cheaper so I ordered a 2.2mm rand sheet and 4.2mm stealth C4 from them. For the curious and posterity (because google-fu failed me in finding these answers), prices are obviously subject to change: southernleatherco.com Five Ten also recommended barge cement. If you can't get that easily you can get a quart of weld wood for $10 at most home improvement stores. Barge cement needs to be thinned before use and weld wood can be used straight. I'll keep you updated with my attempts. |
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Awesome. Thanks for the info. Not gonna order anything now but will in the future. |
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You may want to consider finding/making a last that will help retain the shape of the shoe while it cures. This is an important detail often overlooked. |
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Excellent use case of the 3d scanners and printers at work. Scan foot, print, profit? |
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Fortuna Wolf wrote: I'm jelly. |
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You don’t need a last to resole your own shoes. Especially a 3D scan of your foot. That is ridiculous, why use a cheap plastic replica when you have the real stinky thing. I will not mention the toe fungus. Just glue the rubber, put the shoes on and practice you standing calf rises exercised for a couple of mins. Contact cement does not need to be pressed for a long time. It need a good initial bound. Don’t climb on it for two days, I think that is how long it takes to cure enough to use. Renia, is German version option to barge cement. Some people says is better than Barge. http://www.renia.com/USA/techdata.html Resoleing your shoes will change in both how they feel and performance. Especially if you start messing with the rands. If you really want to to do a good you do need the original last but good luck with that. Also, rand rubber is not sole rubber, it is a lot more elastic and less viscous than sole rubber. Even that you can buy Vibram exgrip rand rubber, I don’t think there is one shoe company that use sole rubber for rands. Sole rubber is more expensive and it will not make a good rubber for rands. So go with the inner tube. Just make sure you clean ALL the white powder, use acetone further clean it and finally sand it. |