New Area? Thacher State Park (Greater Albany)

That explains why you never answer my texts Jay!!!!!

Forgot you were still using telegraph up there on the mountain!

Is there a photo of the actual squeeze pass? (not the demo thing on the top of the trail) Trying to show my wife and I can't find anything on google.

Zach Swanson wrote:

Is there a photo of the actual squeeze pass? (not the demo thing on the top of the trail) Trying to show my wife and I can't find anything on google.

My friend Mike trying to pull his pack through.

Zach Swanson wrote:

Is there a photo of the actual squeeze pass? (not the demo thing on the top of the trail) Trying to show my wife and I can't find anything on google.

Looking down into the slot

ScottL wrote:

Yeah, I mean I've never personally measured it but at its narrowest it's probably close to that.  

That being said, the chimney is hour glass shaped and so it may be 7" at the choke point but 18" above or below it.  So shuffling up or down will make it easier.

Honestly the first time I went down it I found it to be intimidating. It's somewhat steep, awkward, and polished.  But once you do it you'll realize it's not that bad.

It's hard to describe and something that kind of just needs to be experienced.

I am about 5'9" with an athletic build at 150 lbs +/- which includes a thick rib cage. I found it took some effort to find a spot that would allow me to pass through at the narrowest section.

This looks like the crux for the day.

At the squeeze point first put pack high, perpendicular to crack so it stays up there. Then go though low with two free hands. Then reach back and get it. always take harness off, gear loops and stuff catch.

losbill wrote:

That explains why you never answer my texts Jay!!!!!

yep, no smartphone. And bizarrely enough, I'm off the mountain quite a bit these days. I hope to remedy that this week, however. Feel free to call me after today; I'll be home. Just no texts! :)

Alex CV wrote:

Looking down into the slot

I feel my claustrophobia kicking in.

I was a little nervous about the squeeze box, but it wasn't that bad. Though I may be on the smaller side of average for most climbers, I didn't have to actually "squeeze" through, just a little shimmying. The narrowest part is right at the beginning and then it widens out. The hardest part was actually getting our packs back up on our way out. 

So does anyone care to share their experience with the actual climbing itself though? I'm more anxious to hear about that (I'm skinny so the approach isn't keeping me up at night)

I just found out about Thacher via good ol facebook.  I was wondering if this is a destination spot or more of a local crag?  im about 3 hours south of the Gunks and im up there maybe once a month and was curious if its worth the extra hour and a half to maybe squeeze both in on a long weekend?

Kurt G. wrote:

I just found out about Thacher via good ol facebook.  I was wondering if this is a destination spot or more of a local crag?  im about 3 hours south of the Gunks and im up there maybe once a month and was curious if its worth the extra hour and a half to maybe squeeze both in on a long weekend?

It really depends on how much you like sport climbing.  There's not many dedicated sport crags in the northeast.  That's Thatcher's greatest gift to the climbing world.  Otherwise, more rock and quality staying put in the Gunks.

Kurt G. wrote:

I just found out about Thacher via good ol facebook.  I was wondering if this is a destination spot or more of a local crag?  im about 3 hours south of the Gunks and im up there maybe once a month and was curious if its worth the extra hour and a half to maybe squeeze both in on a long weekend?

We spent the weekend there and had a lot of fun. There's a lot going for it even outside the climbing - good camping nearby, local brewery, etc. Might not become your regular "go-to" crag, but it's worth a visit.

Kurt G. wrote:

I just found out about Thacher via good ol facebook.  I was wondering if this is a destination spot or more of a local crag?  im about 3 hours south of the Gunks and im up there maybe once a month and was curious if its worth the extra hour and a half to maybe squeeze both in on a long weekend?

They are close enough it's worth exploring some limestone for a day. It has a unique feel and great views, even for the belayer at the Horsehoe North Cliff which has open ledges. A bunch of people did 2 day trips there last week. It would be good to get some feedback from them if its worth doing a multi-day. 56 routes sounds like a lot, but it depends on what grade you climb at. There is a lot of stuff in the 5.10 range, less for those on the top and bottom end of the spread. 

Later this year when I'm back in the Northeast and have the option to climb anywhere I'd do my 5 day distribution as 2 days in the Gunks, 1 day at Thacher, 1 day at Lake George, 1 day in the Keene Valley. That gives quite the variety of rock and views. Aesthetics and view are important personally, other people are different. 

How's it do in terms of rain? Does anything stay dry? Does it dry fast? Worth the trip with a chance of rain in the area this weekend?

Emmett Lyman wrote:

We spent the weekend there and had a lot of fun. There's a lot going for it even outside the climbing - good camping nearby, local brewery, etc. Might not become your regular "go-to" crag, but it's worth a visit.

Oooh what brewery?

Kurt G. wrote:

Oooh what brewery?

Indian Ladder

Chris Reyes wrote:

How's it do in terms of rain? Does anything stay dry? Does it dry fast? Worth the trip with a chance of rain in the area this weekend?

Not a good destination when wet... the limestone becomes slick as ice. And a local told us that if they get rain for a few days the climbs will seep badly for a few days afterward. But last weekend we got a fair bit of rain Saturday and by Sunday morning everything was nice and dry, so YMMV.