New Area? Thacher State Park (Greater Albany)

Very close now, just waiting on one thing being done by a subcontractor that is a specialty task. The Gunks Apps is the place to get the route info once it's released. 

They just announced (by email newsletter) that climbing opens July 1.

You sign a waiver, pay $6 for parking, and squeeze down to the climbs.  Bring a helmet (there's choss, their words not mine).  Use your own gear to top rope.  All routes are bolted sport with anchors.  5.5 and up, about 50 routes developed thus far.

 I am just fascinated by this thing, referred to as a "squeeze box" on the Facebook page. Is the idea that there's a squeeze somewhere on the approach, and that if you can't get through the box, you can't make to the the climbs? I've been thinking about this for several minutes and that's my best guess. Fascinating!

nkane wrote:

 I am just fascinated by this thing, referred to as a "squeeze box" on the Facebook page. Is the idea that there's a squeeze somewhere on the approach, and that if you can't get through the box, you can't make to the the climbs? I've been thinking about this for several minutes and that's my best guess. Fascinating!

That is correct.  They explained it a bit more in the newsletter.

The Approach- Please Read

Climbing at Thacher is a bit unique in that you park at the top of the cliff and hike to the bottom. It is even more unique in that the descent involves a chimney that is very narrow (known as Fat Man's Misery or Helmus Crevice) and has exposure.The crevice is the ONLY way to access the cliff for climbing.This means that folks will need to be comfortable in small spaces and with moderate exposure to hike to the base of the cliff.At the Park's request, the TCC constructed a "squeeze box" that sits at the top of the crevice to simulate just how small the crevice gets. The idea is to practice and avoid anyone getting stuck. We've found that  folks can navigate the narrowest section by staying either  high or low since it's shaped like an hour-glass.It follows that  what is difficult to go down is also difficult to get up.So please,be safe.Even a minor injury is likely to become a long and difficult climb back to the car.

That box looks about 7 inches wide.  Surely not everyone can fit.  They should take a lesson from Smith Rock and install a via ferrata type ladder to facilitate up and down.  Rescue folks would surely appreciate something like that as well. (I suspect first responders would include some local FD volunteers who might be on the portly side.  No disrespect.)

'Nuther question - is there any sort of guide for folks w/o smartphones??

Gunkiemike wrote:

It should also be noted that this is only the first set of walls, there's likely many others they can develop once this works out.

Gunkiemike wrote:

'Nuther question - is there any sort of guide for folks w/o smartphones??

I'm not sure such folks exist.  If they do, maybe their climbing partner(s) have one.

Not being familiar with the area, what's the current black fly/mosquito/tick situation up there? As bad as the Whites/Dacks? Closer to the Gunks? None to speak of?

Chris Reyes wrote:

Not being familiar with the area, what's the current black fly/mosquito/tick situation up there? As bad as the Whites/Dacks? Closer to the Gunks? None to speak of?

Mostly mosquitoes now.  Only the more mountainous areas (higher elevations) have black flies at the moment.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:

I'm not sure such folks exist.  If they do, maybe their climbing partner(s) have one.

Oh you'd be surprised.

Hey Kevin, I agree with Gunkiemike. I for one don't use a smart phone other than a work one and am unable to bring it climbing (and wish others would also not bring them to the crag). So is there a paper or printable version of the guide?

Wow, so I guess in addition to squeezing in  you have to dump all your gear out and pass it through the chimney?

Alan Rubin wrote:

Hey Kevin, I agree with Gunkiemike. I for one don't use a smart phone other than a work one and am unable to bring it climbing (and wish others would also not bring them to the crag). So is there a paper or printable version of the guide?

You can't print from the app so no printable version.  At some point maybe someone will enter it on MP.

Being that the area hasn't even been opened yet to climbing, the fact there's ANY climbing guide is actually quite a feat!  [IMO]

Zach Swanson wrote:

Wow, so I guess in addition to squeezing in  you have to dump all your gear out and pass it through the chimney?

I'm wondering the logistics of this as well.  I planned on a smallish pack anyway, but when I add things up... heck, can most helmets even fit through there?  :p

[it looks like at the bottom there's enough room]

Gunkiemike wrote:

Where in Smith Rock is there such an installation???

I'm racking my brain trying to recall...

Has the fixed line on the backside of the Rope de Dope Block that goes from the trail to the top been replaced with a via ferrata ladder? 

Khoi wrote:

Where in Smith Rock is there such an installation???

I'm racking my brain trying to recall...

Has the fixed line on the backside of the Rope de Dope Block that goes from the trail to the top been replaced with a via ferrata ladder? 

Yes, it's the Rope-a-Dope scramble.  Pretty stainless steel rungs there now.

Ok, so it can't be only 7" wide in that case.

Late notice, but I'd like to climb here tomorrow (opening day!) and I'm looking for a partner. Let me know if anyone would like to team up.

Gunkiemike wrote:

'Nuther question - is there any sort of guide for folks w/o smartphones??

Us old codgers are the only primitive life forms that both climb and do NOT own smartphones.