How old are our boulderers?

Bouldering is great, but at pushing 50, my joints don't think that repeated grounders are so great anymore. I still boulder couple days a year, but my knees and ankles are pissed for days afterwards. 

I started at 29.  30 now.  My body has always been older than my age, though.  So I'll make the most of it while I can 

Ken Graf wrote:

While there may be SOME truth to this it is also mostly BS. Sure, as an older practitioner of the boulder-craft you can be more susceptible to injury but with a little bit of common sense you can partake without breaking yourself. I am sure you probably already apply the same common sense when you are trying routes. 

I am only 35 but I have enjoyed 17 years of uninterrupted rock-licking and while a majority of it has been of the pad-sniffing variety I do enjoy balancing it out with some of the clanky metal stuff too. I feel that they can compliment one another pretty well. My mentor is 56 now, he came up as a route climber but has been devotely climbing the pebbles for the past 20 years at a fairly high level. He is by no means injury free but I don't think it would have been any less if he continue climbing routes at a high level.

Well, let's see. Arthritis in left foot, right ankle, both knees and right hip. All from bouldering falls. At mid 30s, I was still bouldering regularly.  I don't think that the incompatibility between age and bouldering is all BS. 

I'm 48. When I boulder hard for a few weeks, my climbing improves, but my tendons start hurting. Mostly, I don't boulder much.

I'm 53 (about to be 54), I've considered buying a pad.................for naps in the shade....... ;)

The only time I boulder now is if it's necessary to access a climb. JB

Ken Graf wrote:

hoping to maintain an enjoyable climbing practice for as long as possible

That all depends on how you enjoy climbing and what you see in bouldering, I suppose.

As someone of your age and having been bouldering a lot more (indoor & outdoor) in the last few years, I can attest it is a lot easier to get hurt in (typically) non life-threatening ways while bouldering. As someone who is into the movement and self-improvement aspects of climbing, the trade-off is worth it to me. But I do try to stay off of highballs...

the schmuck wrote:

Well, let's see. Arthritis in left foot, right ankle, both knees and right hip. All from bouldering falls. At mid 30s, I was still bouldering regularly.  I don't think that the incompatibility between age and bouldering is all BS. 

Its ALL from bouldering falls? Sounds like you could some strength and mobility training. 

I didn't say it is ALL BS. Common sense applies to both bouldering and route climbing. Of course taking ground falls is not the most healthy activity but if you train for it the effects can be lessened. Just like how drop-knees or full crimps can be extremely unhealthy unless they are trained properly.

I did see an old head at the gym a few months ago. He was probably in his 70's and only really climbing onto the starts if a few slab problems of lower grades,  but he was there nonetheless. 

My issues with aging will all be medical.   Fusing of my lumbar vertebrae, probably being the most sever

Mike Brady wrote:

Its ALL from bouldering falls? Sounds like you could some strength and mobility training. 

I didn't say it is ALL BS. Common sense applies to both bouldering and route climbing. Of course taking ground falls is not the most healthy activity but if you train for it the effects can be lessened. Just like how drop-knees or full crimps can be extremely unhealthy unless they are trained properly.

Well, I did spend almost every winter weekend in Hueco before the new (1998) management plan went into effect. Most of this was also before the days of pads (had some foam with duct taped carpet), and the constant pounding as well as the occasional missed "pad" did its number. I don't think that mobility/strength training would have alleviated broken bones. 

the schmuck wrote:

Well, I did spend almost every winter weekend in Hueco before the new (1998) management plan went into effect. Most of this was also before the days of pads (had some foam with duct taped carpet), and the constant pounding as well as the occasional missed "pad" did its number. I don't think that mobility/strength training would have alleviated broken bones. 

Haha! Yeah broken bones are hard to remedy with lifting. You are making me feel very grateful that I have been able to avoid any acute lasting injuries!

Bill Shubert wrote:

I'm 48. When I boulder hard for a few weeks, my climbing improves, but my tendons start hurting. Mostly, I don't boulder much.

This. I'm 56 and I've found that a short period of hard bouldering can be beneficial but doing it for very long is a bad idea for me. This also extends to weight training which I've done pretty continuously since my early teens. When I was in my 20's I could thrive doing several hard workouts per week. If I try that now I just get hurt.

Have fun bouldering - it is a great workout - but only get on problems you think you can flash or the crux is right off the deck. Younger boulderers will peel with abandon and try problems past the limit of their ability. And they'll take lots and lots of falls. It's these repeated falls you're trying to avoid. Your body doesn't need the stress. That won't make you stronger. You can do 4 x 4 bouldering circuits and develop great power endurance without having to take tons of falls. I'm in the camp that believes you get stronger by pulling on holds, not falling off them. If you want to fall off hard V grades go sport climbing with a stretchy rope and light belayer -- that will be a softer landing and the difficulty is all there.

Bill Shubert wrote:

I'm 48. When I boulder hard for a few weeks, my climbing improves, but my tendons start hurting. Mostly, I don't boulder much.

I'm 35 and feel the same way. Though I long boarder through my youth and switched to short boarding later on. 

There is also Tim Fairfield. He's 48 or 49 and recently sent an unrepeated v15 at priest draw.   Ben Moon is in his 50s, has a colostomy bag, and climbs v14. 

the schmuck wrote:

There is also Tim Fairfield. He's 48 or 49 and recently sent an unrepeated v15 at priest draw. 

And Matt Birch, Jacky Godoffe, Tim Clifford, Chris Schulte, Fred Nicole, Klem Loskot, Rob Mulligan, Kevin Daniels......

Nice trailer.  I'm 53, If I can rid myself of forearm tendonitis in both arms (and keep my rotator cuff from acting up again) may be I can start a quest for bouldering greatness.    

Well, there you go...no reason for old farts to not send v double digits...unless you are a weak, fat, mentally derelict and broken down geezer (me). :-)

Is this a trick question?

I do need to mention that Loskot is 42 and Schulte is 38. I don't think they fit the old fart category.