Am I gunna die? Wear and tear on ATC

slevin wrote:

Actually, the wear to be most concerned about on any tubular belay device is on the inner surface of the rope slots. Look for sharp edges developing on the load strand side of the device i.e. towards the climber (when belaying/lowering) or anchor (when rappelling). This wear will occur faster on devices used exclusively in high friction mode, with the device oriented the same way each use. 

The first generation Petzl Reverso was notorious for developing a very sharp edge at the rope slots, although I have now retired several ATC Guide devices with the same issue. 

So many of these used equipment posts (ATC, Gri Gri, Old Rope, Harness, worn tie-in point, etc.) focus on the wear and tear of a device that's extremely unlikely, by itself, to fail and cause an accident. What's often ignored is that USER, despite perceived level of experience, will at some Crucial Point forget to properly focus on threading or attaching the device properly for a rappel, lower off, self belay, etc.

IMO the wear and tear displayed by any of the devices in the previous photos would not (in itself) fail and cause Death as the OP seeks opinions.

It's much more likely that the operator, after years and years of climbing with 100's of times threading the device properly when rapping or lowering, will become complacent and fail to properly set up, inspect, and test before weighting the device ...THAT ONE time... And it's not noticed that the device was incorrectly threaded/attached. Than yur gonna die. 

I am speaking from the perspective of recently using my Gri Gri improperly (self-induced) almost leading to my own NEAR Death/Grevious injury experience (narrowly avoided) from just such an incident. Always back up your safety system when possible and Be Careful out there !!

Round pen/pencil + fine sandpaper + 2 minutes = no more sharp edge on the ATC.

Good to know. I never use my ATC in high friction mode so I did not think of this but I can see the dangers of a sharp edge there. Any pictures of the retired gear with worn grooves?

Joe Garibay wrote:

Average wear down

Well worn

I'd say more like light and moderate. I've seen ATC-Guides worn down so much there are no teeth remaining at all and they still worked fine. It's really just a question of what you're comfortable with. I'd be perfectly fine with using either of the two in these photos, and the one on top looks like it’s seen less than a months use at the Creek.

20 kN wrote:

I'd say more like light and moderate. I've seen ATC-Guides worn down so much there are no teeth remaining at all and they still worked fine. It's really just a question of what you're comfortable with. I'd be perfectly fine with using either of the two in these photos, and the one on top looks like it’s seen less than a months use at the Creek.

I'd say you're almost spot on. I don't use my guide for much else than belaying the second. And I switch up from sport to Boulder to trad enough that wear and tear takes time. And the atc is about perfect now. I use a 9.8 and it slides great. Probably could use some sanding at this point though. 

slevin wrote:

Actually, the wear to be most concerned about on any tubular belay device is on the inner surface of the rope slots. Look for sharp edges developing on the load strand side of the device i.e. towards the climber (when belaying/lowering) or anchor (when rappelling). This wear will occur faster on devices used exclusively in high friction mode, with the device oriented the same way each use. 

The first generation Petzl Reverso was notorious for developing a very sharp edge at the rope slots, although I have now retired several ATC Guide devices with the same issue. 

This is a super helpful image.  I'll even edit my post so that when a newb (or overcautious person who things some of the scratches could cause wear and tear on the rope if it passes over an outside edge) finds this post, they'll see what wear pattern is actually a problem.  In retrospect, if the rope is dragging over crystaline rock, then it's more than capable of withstanding some rough aluminum.  I done goofed and asked a stupid question on the interwebs.  Mea culpa.

Joe Garibay wrote:

Average wear down

Well worn

Again, thanks for posting photos!

scienceguy288 wrote:

In retrospect, if the rope is dragging over crystaline rock, then it's more than capable of withstanding some rough aluminum.  I done goofed and asked a stupid question on the interwebs.  Mea culpa.

I wouldn't say rough aluminum. The grooves are as polished and smooth as a knife once worn through. IF the rope were to be damaged, it would be a clean cut rather than being roughed up. 

The traditional symptom of a worn belay device (or karabiner) which has sharp edges is you start getting covered in coloured dust as you slowly shred the rope sheath.