Climbing with boot after injury
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I broke my tib/fib at the end of March, when I fell at a bouldering gym. I got a plate and 9 screws in my leg now and was just cleared to start weight bearing. My doctor said that I need to wear the boot for a week or two, as I get used to walking again, and then I can wear street shoes. Has anyone climbed with a boot on? Feel free to discourage me from doing it, I'm just looking for some people with experience. My doctor gives me nearly no information, he just said the bones healed perfectly. |
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I have climbed with one when I broke my ankle but, only on top rope. |
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I've climbed with a boot after two different injuries—once for a cracked tarsal in my left foot, and again after I broke my right ankle. Impacts are the main concern, so it was all roadside stuff on toprope or on overhanging sport routes where I wouldn't hit anything if I fell. It made for a funny challenge and I was forced to improve on techniques like flagging and balancing/standing up on one leg, etc. Good luck with the recovery! |
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I've climbed with a cam boot while my foot was still broken. There is no reason why you can't climb with just 3 limbs. But I'd get your regular walking strength without the boot before you use that foot for climbing. If you bones have heal fine then your progression back to full health should be fairly rapid. I've broken several bones nothing as bad as tib/fib but the principle remains the same. If the bones are heal then recovery is just getting your muscles back into shape because of the weeks/months they've been inactive. If you are young fit and healthy then you most likely can take the boot off now or very soon. Your muscles will have atrophied but the quicker you get them working again the quicker you recover. |
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I broke my right distal tib last year. I climbed with a boot in the gym( very lightly) or with one leg, on the non-broken one on top rope about a week after I was weight bearing. I had a clean non-displaced fracture so I didn't have too much trouble with pain until out of my boot. However, I had a lot of naysayers saying I would injure my rotater cuffs in my shoulders, climbing with one foot, with a boot etc. Stick to slightly overhanging routes and big jugs. (helps prevent errant bangs into the wall or holds with the boot. Which healed or not, hurt like a bitch) However, the time I spent climbing and strengthening my ankle and did pay dividends. I'm 11 months post break and I'm climbing harder and running further than before. It's all a matter or your end goal and making sure you work hard on your mobility. I will say, it took nearly a full 4-6 months to get 100% of my leg strength back and stop having tendon/ligament pain. Make sure with your climbing to hit the mobility, PT and stretching just as hard. Good luck! |
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One footed climbing is one of the best ways to improve. Super lowball traversing is good assuming a 1 foot fall isn't going to hurt. |
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Just wait............... |
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Don't risk it. |
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climbed in a boot after tearing a ligament in my ankle. Edges really well. Can't smear worth a damn. |
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John Barritt wrote: Wait for what?
Risk what? He is no longer 'injured'. I'm all for conservative treatment letting your body recover but the bones have already healed. Now is the stage where he needs to retrain and re strengthening is muscles/tendons etc. No different from regular training just starting from a lower base. And just like regular training rest is just as important as activity. But if he is capable and confident of walking without a boot then he should start as soon as possible. I've been there. My first proper walk (20mins on flat ground) was quite hard on my muscles but muscles repair and regrow quickly in response to use. |
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patto wrote: That's what I was thinking as well. I'm dealing with some pretty atrophied left leg muscles, worst of which is my heal. So my friend told me he'd belay me if I found some proof of people top roping in a boot and not further injuring themselves. I appreciate the insight! I'm a girl... the name throws everyone off. |
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Ease into it slowly... I have pretty much the exact same hardware in my left leg (from mid shin to my ankle). I honestly would take it easy on climbing for a while until you've re-built your tendons and muscles. My leg looked like a twig for months afterwards. It's not so much a problem with putting weight on your leg, but more of a problem the way your ankle gets torqued when climbing. Torquing and locking off your leg in certain situation will stress the hardware in your leg and cause some discomfort. The bone may be completely healed, but I would guarantee you it's not super hard just yet. With time the bone will grow around the hardware and it will be easier to manage and will get stronger. My injury was about 7yrs ago and after long, hard days or hiking 10miles or so a day on hard terrain the bottom of my ankle will be black and purple, I quit skateboarding completely (how I broke it), shock loading that leg doesn't feel right to this day. Doesn't really hurt anymore but it's definitely not the same, it probably won't ever be exactly the same so don't get too discouraged, it's a long, slow process. Personally, I would do plenty of walking and stretching, light leg workouts, etc for at least a month, probably more to be realistic, and then slowly get back into on top rope... I wouldn't climb in a boot at all honestly, I think that's way too early from my experience with the issue. I'm not saying NOT to do it all, but I would think long and hard about it and make an honest assessment for yourself. The absolute last thing you want to do is re-injure your leg and have them go back in there. I feel for you brother, I really do, but you gotta be smart... If you're still in a boot, I personally think it's too early. |
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There are so many people climbing at the BRC with boots, casts, splints etc that we've joked that they should lend them out at the front desk. Toproping for the most part. Seems like bouldering would be a bad idea. I did see a very strong female climber on the grey wall (overhanging) at Movement onsighting my projects while in an ortho walking boot. Edited to add- Turns out it was Courtney Sanders http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=REtTkCllKQw |
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patto wrote: Uhhh......to get the boot off. Girl climbs in boot......slips off hold and injures good ankle. Gets new boot for other leg. There's no patience anymore. JB
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I never regretted the exercise I got after breaking my tib/fib. I focused on bicycling and walking/hiking, but I can see the wish to climb. I'd ensure that you don't fall on the just-healed leg, so maybe top-roping would do. Along with the exercise routine of Courtney Sanders (awesome), you would have less time inactive and a quicker re-build. |
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What about if you’re not at the weight bearing part yet (even in a boot)? Just had Achilles surgery, sucks worse than ACL, mobility-wise (imo)...in a cast right now, but can’t bear weight for at least a few more months. Anybody tried tying your bad leg back (chicken wing...maybe an elastic band?) so that it’s not flailing around? Autobelay on descent probably a no-go, right? I can’t walk, run, or hike (my dog is very annoyed), so there’s gotta be something I can do or I will die |
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Quinn Bot wrote: What about if you’re not at the weight bearing part yet (even in a boot)? Just had Achilles surgery, sucks worse than ACL, mobility-wise (imo)...in a cast right now, but can’t bear weight for at least a few more months. Anybody tried tying your bad leg back (chicken wing...maybe an elastic band?) so that it’s not flailing around? Autobelay on descent probably a no-go, right? I can’t walk, run, or hike (my dog is very annoyed), so there’s gotta be something I can do or I will dieWhat type of dog? can it pull you? on street Skis or a Skateboard ? ("Big Fat" old school wheels only) |
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Caped Baldy wrote: Quinn, Wow. Thank you so much, this means alot. I can’t believe you went without a nerve block and pain meds!!! Ive been through 2 ACL replacements, so I guess I’m just a wuss haha, I definitely used pain regulation but I’m almost 2 weeks post, so none needed now. Tomorrow I either get out into a new cast or the boot (still non-weight bearing), can’t remember what they said. I have a hang board and some rock rings, but of course, they’re all mounted above door frames and require a stool to get to, kinda sketch. I should ask a friend to loosen the cords on the rock rings at least. As for climbing, after it was confirmed what had happened, I borrowed a neighbor’s air cast and climbed with a boot but didn’t put it on holds (my gym has rules against non climbing shoes on holds)...I had to go off route a bit to finish each route, but that’s good enough for now. I know you’re right, I shouldn’t climb...buuuuuut I’m trying to find a way anyway, for mental sanity. Climbing outside is out of the question until maaaaybe fall/winter shoulder season, and I kinda doubt that, too. Plastic pulling if anything. The funny part is that I only started climbing because I re-tore my ACL in 2017 and had to find something to replace OCRs. Climbed with an anal retentive belayer and I was that gumby yelling “take” any time I got nervous haha - but was climbing 11s as a beginner because of crutch grip! I’m currently using a knee scooter, and plan on getting the iWalk, too. I think if I just secure my bad foot towards my butt and use that same attentive belayer, it’s possible (off route stuff). But maaaaybe I will wait to climb 1 legged until i get the OK to slightly bear weight, just in case. Maybe. I’ve been doing door jam hangs and mantles and stuff, and last night I told myself today was the day I’d stop crying about it and finally go do stuff at the gym |
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Suburban Roadside wrote: What type of dog? can it pull you? on street Skis or a Skateboard ? ("Big Fat" old school wheels only) Haha yeah, she’s a cattledog. If you’re ever in salt lake and see a red heeler pulling a girl on a knee scooter with an alpine draw, that’s us! She’s being patient, as we’ve been through an ACL recovery before, but she misses our mountain hikes |
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Caped Baldy wrote: Quinn, Nice! I miss the Sierras - enjoy those climbs! And you’re right, a few months w/o climbing isn’t the worst thing ever, and that beast grip looks really helpful, great idea. Just got my cast off and sutures out today and am in my new best boot friend. Could be worse! Stupidest and most expensive birthday present ever, though |
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FYI, I feel pretty safe to hike and TR moderates with the iwalk2.0. Maybe the iclimb2.0 version could have a monopoint, though. |