Devils Tower in June – 22 years after the voluntary June closure started – What do people think now?

The number of guided climbers includes the guide as well. All of the guide services operate in June.

My goal with the post is 

1) to increase awareness about the issue

2) try to answer questions and provide education about the reasons for the closure

3) promote discussion

In 1990s, the issue of climbing at Devil's Tower, including placement bolt & piton placement for new routes, was of great concern to the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe & a few other tribes. There is a ban on new bolts that limits first ascent as a result of the Climbing Management Plan. A plan that included representatives of both Indian & climbing organizations. The plan included this voluntary closure for the month of June.

I am sure that some Indians tribes like the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe & their spiritual leaders still feeling strongly about the month of June. That said we should wonder if most Indians feel this way.  Given the current issues facing the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe & the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe of the Dakota Access Pipeline, I have to believe that climbing at Devil's Tower in June would be on the back burner. Trump has even threatened to privatize the Indian Reservations to make it easier to extract the natural resources. This isn't the 1990s, it's 2017 & the harmful effects Fracking have given cancer to many Indians near the Bakken Oil Shale in North Dakota.

I have respected the voluntary closure since 1995, but not climbing on DT in June doesn't bring any justice to the past / current issues indigenous people are facing. It may seem wonderful that the NPS is working to minimize climbers at DT in June.  Just 100 miles away we can see one very disgusting slap in the face to the Indians: Mt. Rushmore. I find an actrocity that after the US government took the Black Hills from the Indians that they carved the faces of 4 US Presidents in a beautiful rock face. Every fucking time I see it or think of it, I want to burn a god damned American flag. 

Lucas Barth wrote:

The number of guided climbers includes the guide as well. All of the guide services operate in June.

How many rock guiding concessionaires does the NPS permit in a given year?

Thanks for your post and your work as a Devils Tower climbing ranger, Lucas. It is nice to see up to date thoughts on the closure. I will continue to respect the June closure.

Wally

Stagg54 Taggart wrote:

Maybe I'm just stating the obvious, but

How can you have a voluntary ban and then tar and feather people for not volunteering?   At that point its kinda not voluntary anymore...

Maybe y'all need to check your dictionaries:

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/voluntary

If you want everyone to stay away then perhaps you should make it mandatory...

Otherwise stop busting everyone's balls...

I'm not trying to 'bust everyone's balls...' Maybe some people take the comments on here a little personally, or some people are a a little offensive in the way they state their beliefs. Others are quite defensive about them. It is a sensitive issue and one that people seem to be quite divided on. I'm just trying to promote some open conversation about it, with hopefully a positive effect.

James Schroeder wrote:

How many rock guiding concessionaires does the NPS permit in a given year?

It varies, but generally there around 4-6. This year there are 6.

Lucas Barth wrote:

• In short, the National Park Service and Devils Tower needs your help to keep things in balance. It is the climbing community’s responsibility to uphold their end of the agreement embodied in the CMP. You can help do this by talking to your friends about the issue, writing your thoughts, comments, and questions here on this forum, and most importantly not climbing in June and not encouraging others to climb in June.

  I am happy to answer any questions that you have about the reasons for the voluntary closure, and I encourage open discussion on the issue. You can also visit the NPS website for more information:

  https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/climbing.htm#CP_JUMP_5320589

  Lucas Barth

  Devils Tower Climbing Ranger

This thread has been fascinating to follow. I have learned alot about the issue and about some of the climbers that post on this forum. I appreciate the education and the respectful dialogue. This has been an excellent way to inform climbers who did not know the ban existed . It's also a gentle reminder to those of us who know about the ban, as June is quickly approaching. I appreciate all you have done, and continue to do, to allow everyone access to the Tower to pusue our individual beliefs and activities. 

Lots of interesting comments on the parallel thread on Supertopo.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2975165&tn=60

The one below caught my eye.  I imagine many of the posters here will think "Devils Tower is different."  I have not seen any evidence or reasonable argument suggesting that it is.

Please send me your favorite local crag (i.e. Yosemite, etc..)

I'm preparing a standard form letter to send to all tribes that me be interested in setting aside a month to ban climbing for rituals, ceremonies etc..(Very similar to Devils Tower)

I'd like to get local legislators on board with the possibility of favorable media coverage, etc..

I'm quite certain the local reservations/tribes that have valued these areas, would be in favor of such a recommendation. They probably didn't realize that a possible climbing ban existed!!

Please send me your lists and I'll get these standardized letters to forward along.

Lets make it happen!!!

Lucas Barth wrote:

I'm not trying to 'bust everyone's balls...' Maybe some people take the comments on here a little personally, or some people are a a little offensive in the way they state their beliefs. Others are quite defensive about them. It is a sensitive issue and one that people seem to be quite divided on. I'm just trying to promote some open conversation about it, with hopefully a positive effect.

All I'm saying is don't call it voluntary and then get pissed off when people don't volunteer.  

Jason Todd wrote:

It is up.  Already discussed above.

No wonder there is a communication issue.

Since 1995 the percentage of June climbers to annual is up, but since 2011 it is down or at least flat, based on OP's chart in his second post in this thread. OP said that "June climbing numbers continue to increase, proportionally," but that doesn't appear to be the case over the last few years. There was a big spike in 2011 and another in 2013, but 2012 and 2014 saw large drops. In 2014 the percentage of June climbers dropped to half of what it was in 2013. It was back up 2% in 2015 then down a percent in 2016. Each of the even-numbered years since 2011, including last year, would be considered "Successful (proportionally)" according to the climbing management plan. 

pfwein wrote:

Lots of interesting comments on the parallel thread on Supertopo.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2975165&tn=60

The one below caught my eye.  I imagine many of the posters here will think "Devils Tower is different."  I have not seen any evidence or reasonable argument suggesting that it is.

Interesting bit of satire...I hope!

I've climbed the tower twice and support the voluntary closure in June. It seems like a fair compromise to me.

One way to increase awareness might be to add more detail to the "June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure" message at the top of https://www.mountainproject.com/v/devils-tower/105714267 so that there is more information available to readers without them having to click the link.

Ken Johnson wrote:

Since 1995 the percentage of June climbers to annual is up, but since 2011 it is down or at least flat, based on OP's chart in his second post in this thread. OP said that "June climbing numbers continue to increase, proportionally," but that doesn't appear to be the case over the last few years. There was a big spike in 2011 and another in 2013, but 2012 and 2014 saw large drops. In 2014 the percentage of June climbers dropped to half of what it was in 2013. It was back up 2% in 2015 then down a percent in 2016. Each of the even-numbered years since 2011, including last year, would be considered "Successful (proportionally)" according to the climbing management plan. 

Yes, the numbers go up and down over the years. But overall the trend is an increase. Likely the big drop you see on the graph in 2014 is that the data we have for 2014 guiding is missing. 

Hobo Greg wrote:

Would you feel better if it were mandatory?

If you call it voluntary, then that means by default you are ok with some people not volunteering.  If you are not, then make it mandatory...

Stagg54 Taggart wrote:

If you call it voluntary, then that means by default you are ok with some people not volunteering.  If you are not, then make it mandatory...

There's a First Amendment issue re: favoring a religion that would likely get in the way of a mandatory ban. However, that doesn't mean it's right to do so. The first amendment protects all forms of vile behavior. You have the right to march in a Nazi parade, insult everyone you meet (as long as you don't threaten them), etc etc. That doesn't mean any of those are right. 

As noted, there are serious First Amendment (establishment clause) legal issues with making the "voluntary" closure a non-voluntary closure.  Lucas is either unaware or unwilling to acknowledge those issues.

In my view, there are also serious legal issues with the current "voluntary" closure, especially when it is coupled with a threat to punish the climbing community if virtually all climbers do not "voluntarily" accept the "voluntary closure."  If nothing else, there is a disturbingly Orwellian aspect to the use of the word "voluntary."

Anyone seriously interested in this issue would do well to take a few minutes to read the comments of "Dingus McGee" (Dennis Horning) on that corresponding Supertopo thread, http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2975165&tn=120

Dingus McGee has deep personal knowledge of the process led to the current "voluntary" closure and pioneered many classic routes at DT. 

Not sure if Lucas is still posting on the ST thread-- his "answers" (really non-answers) to my ("blahblah"'s) questions on that thread became increasingly evasive and defensive.   [Edit--Lucas did answer my post on the ST thread; I appreciate his comments, although I disagree with them.]

In brief summary, I am trying to determine, in general, on how many days in June there are Indian ceremonies, and in general when and where they are.  The purpose of my question is because I believe a reasonable "voluntary" action may be not to climb at DT when and where there are Indian ceremonies, which, I am quite sure, is a distinctly smaller time and place than the entire month of June.  In my view, it is not reasonable to ask people not to climb at DT on days and places where there are no Indian ceremonies.  Of course other people see it differently.

Lucas basically said the Indians do not want anyone to know that information.  I get the sense that his basic theme is that "we" (non-Indian climbers) should trust him and the NPS to serve as "honest brokers" in what he perceives to be a conflict between Indians (perhaps a vanishingly small number of Indians) and climbers.  Not sure I'm super interested in that.

Stagg54 Taggart wrote:

If you call it voluntary, then that means by default you are ok with some people not volunteering.  If you are not, then make it mandatory...

It seems to me that for a mandatory ban to not be categorized as a religious preference for one group, it would probably have to be a permanent ban on climbing DT (or going inside of the loop trail or whatever) -- not just one month out of the year.  My line of questioning above was to clarify exactly who was climbing in June, and also I was curious about the impact guide services were having on the numbers.  

From my post on the supertopo thread.

It would not be fair to say that I or the NPS serve as a spokesperson for Native Americans. When I said that Native Americans do not wish this information to be shared I was speaking based on the ethnographic study by Hanson and Chirinos, and information in the climbing management plan, as well as information passed on to me by other NPS employees that have had consultation with the tribes that hold the tower sacred. The NPS has and does consult with the tribes on these issues, though I have not personally been a part of that process. I am not saying that Native Americans all feel the same about this issue or that they all think alike. I would guess that the opinions would be as diverse among the Native American community as they are in the climbing community.

From the:

Ethnographic Overview and Assessment of Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming

"One of the major issues emerging from this project was that of a cultural paradox. That is, the National Park Service, in order to protect and manage personal ritual areas, needs data on the location of these sites. The Native Americans interviewed realized this, but also pointed out that, in many cases these locations are by religious custom not supposed to be revealed, and that Indian people would be acting in a culturally inappropriate manner by doing so. Thus, to provide needed data to the NPS to protect their religious interests they risk behaving counter to their religion"

"Devils Tower, which includes all areas between the Tower and the Tower trail, is eligible for listing on the National Register of Historic Places as a traditional cultural property. Tradition in this context refers to 'those beliefs, customs, and practices of a living community of people that have been passed down through the generations, usually orally or through practice.' The word culture in the National Register program is understood to mean "the traditions, beliefs, practices, lifeways, arts, crafts, and social institutions of any community, be it an Indian tribe, a local ethnic group, or the people of the nation as a whole." (Parker and King 1990)."

"A traditional cultural property is generally defined as one that is eligible for listing on the National Register because of its association with cultural practices or beliefs of a living community that (a) are rooted in that community's history and (b) are important in maintaining the continuing cultural identity of the community (Parker and King 1990). "The NPS treats all lands that are eligible to be listed as if they actually are.

As far as Dingus' claim that "The NPS land surrounding Devils Tower was/is for any measure devoid of any cultural artifacts. There are zero cultural artifacts on the sides or top of Devils Tower."

This is completely false. There are many documented artifacts and sites on the shoulders of the tower and near the tower within the monument. These are not advertised to the general public for the same reasons described above, and many of these sites were discovered after the climbing management plan was enacted.

I will again try to answer Blahblah's questions directly. I assure you I am not trying to be evasive or non-responsive. Let me again say though that the June closure is not tied to the visible presence of ceremonies. It is based off the cultural value of the tower as a sacred site to many tribes.

1) I don't know what dates there will be ceremonies this year.

2) It might be possible for me to find out the dates. Some require special use permits that the park issues, some do not. Again, this is not public information.

3) I don't know the earliest date in June that ceremonies take place, nor do I know the percentage of days in June that they take place, ceremonies can take place at all times of day, including night time, (not trying to be vague, just the truth). I don't know how long they usually last. Ceremonies take place at different locations around the tower. There are ceremonies that take place in other months of the year.

Is it hard to believe that Native Americans do not want this information shared? It seems pretty reasonable to me.

More evidence documented in the climbing management plan about the tower as a sacred site.

"Some American Indians perceive climbing on the tower and the proliferation of bolts, pitons, slings, and other climbing equipment on the tower as a desecration to their sacred site. It appears to many

American Indians that climbers do not respect their culture by the very act of climbing on the tower. Climbing during traditional ceremonies and prayer times is a sensitive issue as well. Elders have commented that the spirits do not inhabit the area anymore because of all the visitors and use of the tower, thus it is not a good place to worship as before."

"The Dakota, Nakota, and Lakota Nations held a meeting in June, 1993 and developed the Summit V Resolution No. 93-11. The purpose of the document was to 'support and demand tribal participation in the protection and decision making of sacred sites.'" From that document it states that Devils tower is a sacred site among others in the state and in South Dakota, and "Devils Tower has been subjected to similar damage from an onslaught of rock climbers...these sites and many others are vital to the continuation of our traditional beliefs and values... and it is our legacy to protect these sites for the future generations, so they too, may be able to enjoy these holy places for prayer and revitalization of Mother Earth."

Regardless of weather a mandatory ban would hold up in court, the NPS is still asking you to choose to not climb during June out of respect for the sacredness of Devils Tower to many tribes, which has been documented. If you choose to climb for whatever reason, that is your choice to make. The purpose of this thread was to open up discussion on it and thus increase awareness, not to pass judgement on those that climb in June. I value the comments by everyone here and it has been informative on all sides. Thank you.

pfwein wrote:

 If nothing else, there is a disturbingly Orwellian aspect to the use of the word "voluntary."

^^^ This ^^^