Mountain Project Logo

Leaving a fixed rope on route while being safe and courteous

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,850

I'll 2nd the idea to steak it out as a filming project.  For this short period and on a non classic, I'd think you would be fine.  I would add a set of leavers or better screw links for the pull line, so you don't block a leader lowering.  With a small laminated note attached explaining how the pull line was left to run ropes for rigging cameras.  If the pull path doesn't run over bad edges, using 100lb fishing line instead of twine.  No one would notice till they topped out.  Use brown or tan paper for the note.  Might even go so far as painting the leavers.

If you really wanted to make this a habit.  I have no idea the area, restrictions, so this might not be possible or advisable.  Consider adding a 2nd anchor above the regular one.  Paint the hardware, and rig it with fishing line or twine.  Do it right, no one would give it a 2nd thought.

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
Craig Childre wrote:

I'll 2nd the idea to steak it out as a filming project.  For this short period and on a non classic, I'd think you would be fine.  I would add a set of leavers or better screw links for the pull line, so you don't block a leader lowering.  With a small laminated note attached explaining how the pull line was left to run ropes for rigging cameras.  If the pull path doesn't run over bad edges, using 100lb fishing line instead of twine.  No one would notice till they topped out.  Use brown or tan paper for the note.  Might even go so far as painting the leavers.

If you really wanted to make this a habit.  I have no idea the area, restrictions, so this might not be possible or advisable.  Consider adding a 2nd anchor above the regular one.  Paint the hardware, and rig it with fishing line or twine.  Do it right, no one would give it a 2nd thought.

I thought the other guy suggesting a "filming project" was just joking (I have another thread here on MP where I posted a picture of a team staking out Outer Space for filming, which is also in Eldo and just across the creek from Blackwalk).  

That said, your suggestion is quite well-thought-out, and I agree that (if I fully implemented everything you said) 99% of people wouldn't care.  The Screw Links idea is also good.  But I definitely cannot add another anchor since the park requires a permit for placing bolts and the committee governing those decisions requires you have strong compelling reasons for placing a bolt.  This would not qualify.

Finally, you claim that "done right no one would give it a 2nd thought."  I used to think this way too, but I've been climbing 30 years now and I know there are climbers with very strong feelings about almost every issue regarding gear and style.

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 228

Have you considered rigging up a drone to place your fixed line?

This solution probably won't actually reduce the number of other climbers that are angry with you.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984
John RB wrote:

I thought the other guy suggesting a "filming project" was just joking 

I was

  

I know there are climbers with very strong feelings about almost every issue regarding gear and style.

Especially in Eldo. 

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,850
John RB wrote:

Agree...  I'm not all that familiar with Front Range ethics...  and I seem to recall hearing about a bolt chopping wars years back.  You're dealing with crowd volumes we never see down here.

Aaron Danforth · · Cody, WY · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BWr58LFZRXw

Skip to :42 seconds in for attaching your thin line to your rope.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
Mark E Dixon wrote:

Why don't you just put up a sign claiming to be shooting a film project?

lol... eldo?

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
timinthehouse wrote:

Aid Solo it dude.

I wish.

How do you aid run-out slab with marginal gear placements?

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908
John RB wrote:

I wish.

How do you aid run-out slab with marginal gear placements?

With big nuts.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
John RB wrote:

I wish.

How do you aid run-out slab with marginal gear placements?

Hooks.

Yoou may need a hammer and chisel. In which case you'd also need a flak jacket, if not full armor.

Mitchell E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 26

I have no opinion on leaving twine or monofilament through the chains. But I do have an opinion on top-roping through fixed gear.

If you do this, jug up to the chains and set up an anchor before you start climbing. If you want to jug on a single strand, you could set up a Reepschnur biner block when you pull your climbing rope through the chains.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Anybody who gets butthurt over somebody leaving a pull cord that is camoed and out of the way in a semi popular route is can just deal with it because that is ridiculous. And if they want to start some drama with you on they internet then I've got your back as well as a lot of other people. It seems you are doing everything in your power to avoid inconveniencing. 

Now if it's against the park rules to leave fixed ropes overnight, that's a different issue altogether. I highly suggest you contact the park to make sure this is okay with them before doing it

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
eli poss wrote:

Anybody who gets butthurt over somebody leaving a pull cord that is camoed and out of the way in a semi popular route is can just deal with it because that is ridiculous. And if they want to start some drama with you on they internet then I've got your back as well as a lot of other people. It seems you are doing everything in your power to avoid inconveniencing. 

Now if it's against the park rules to leave fixed ropes overnight, that's a different issue altogether. I highly suggest you contact the park to make sure this is okay with them before doing it

Ha. Too funny. That sounds like we're all going to get in a fight in The parking lot by the bike rack, but if it's against the rules then the OP was wrong in the first place, in which case you don't got his back. 

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
mediocre wrote:

Ha. Too funny. That sounds like we're all going to get in a fight in The parking lot by the bike rack, but if it's against the rules then the OP was wrong in the first place, in which case you don't got his back. 

I'm not going to get in a fight with anybody over climbing, that's just stupid and violence is bad. If I understood it correctly, he hasn't actually done anything yet, but it wouldn't be the first time my reading comprehension failed me. Obviously, if it's against the rules in the park then it's a no go, which is why I suggested he contact the eldo state park to see if they were okay with it. But if it's kosher with the park and some other climber gets butthurt about it, that's just ridiculous and I will support the OP. 

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
eli poss wrote:

I'm not going to get in a fight with anybody over climbing, that's just stupid and violence is bad. If I understood it correctly, he hasn't actually done anything yet, but it wouldn't be the first time my reading comprehension failed me. Obviously, if it's against the rules in the park then it's a no go, which is why I suggested he contact the eldo state park to see if they were okay with it. But if it's kosher with the park and some other climber gets butthurt about it, that's just ridiculous and I will support the OP. 

I asked the ranger yesterday about fixed lines in Eldo.  The answer was this:

You can't leave fixed ropes overnight in Eldorado Canyon.  Of course exceptions are made for emergencies (stuck rope, or maybe you bailed in a storm and are coming back to get your ropes tomorrow).

I didn't ask about fishing line instead of rope.  I've just abandoned the idea instead (and intend to just rap from above now). 

Morty Gwin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

The route is over your skill level. Work on your skills, not on the route. Your tat will be removed and rightly so.

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
Maureen Maguire wrote:

The route is over your skill level. Work on your skills, not on the route. Your tat will be removed and rightly so.

What an amazing contribution to the conversation.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Leaving a fixed rope on route while being safe…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.