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Five Ten Quantum

Original Post
Snah Ntrm · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Anyone have the Five Ten quantum,  Blue version? what do you think of them? 

Xan Calonne · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 61
Snah Ntrm · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I have a pair. I have used them on hard for me (12+ 13- ) trad and sport. It's a  katana lace by five ten. Having had both shoes, I like the new quantum more. The toe box and tongue are excellent and there's more rubber/better rubber on the toes of the shoe. They are not overly sensitive. But you can still tell with great effect what you are standing on. They smear okay, but they are a shoe that excels at slightly overhung technical climbs. 

 I expect to get a good resole out of them. 

They are great hard granite and limestone shoes. They could be great mulitpicth trad shoes if you climb hard enough. If you want them for 10s and 11-s it's more shoe than you need. 

I recently switched entirely to 5.10 over scarpa or La sport. I wear a size ten in all of the shoes i have gotten from them and have been impressed and pleased with my new quiver. 

Shoes include 

Blanco, 

vertical and highly technical sport and hard trad on insecure features.

Pink, vertical  sport, finger cracks, general mulit

pitch up to mid 12, comfortable enough for 5.10 long routes. 

VCS, same as the pink i just enjoy the Velcro Worth it to me. 

Quantum, 10-15 degree overhanging limestone granite and sandstone faceclimbs. Good in finger cracks, good in off fingers, great for routes that mix technical face with hard cracks. A really stunning shoe. 

Hi angle. Steep caves, boulders, gym climbing. A sensitive sock that can really do a lot well. 

All fit perfectly in 10 consistently. 

That being said I do not have any drasticly downturned shoes from them.  I have had nothing but problems with shoes like that from 5.10. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, I tried Blackwings a half size down from my

street shoes...couldn't get the f'ing things on!

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Quantums are my favorite. I like them sized big for all day routes. I went street shoe size or 1/2 size up from that. Toes at the end with a slight curl, but comfortable. The downturn is very slight and does't feel like downturned while you're wearing them, but its nice when you have a slight overhang to get past. 

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

I wear them two full sizes down from my street shoe for sport and bouldering. They are great for incut holds on overhangs. Less good for slopey holds. No obvious points of failure, but I've only used them a dozen times. 

Eric Swen · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 26

100% agree with Rob. My foot fits most five ten lasts well - specifically the blackwings, dragons, and team shoes. I bought a pair of Miura VS's specifically for granite and limestone climbs since every other shoe I own is super soft and just dealt with the sub-par fit. I got absurdly excited when I tried these on - I no longer have any need to look at Sportiva shoes.

Snah Ntrm · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

With anyone who has the shoe, did they stretch at all? 

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Yes, they definitely stretch a quarter to a half size 

Joe Anderson 2 · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 30
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

It's a  katana lace by five ten. Having had both shoes, I like the new quantum more. The toe box and tongue are excellent and there's more rubber/better rubber on the toes of the shoe. They are not overly sensitive. But you can still tell with great effect what you are standing on. They smear okay, but they are a shoe that excels at slightly overhung technical climbs. 

 

Rob since you mention the Katana Lace and Quantum together, just curious if you feel they sizing is similar too? I own a pair of Katana Lace and 5.10 Verdon's in the exact same size (43.5 Katana, 10.5 Verdon) and feel they're almost identically sized.  just curious on the sizing similarities/differences between the Quantum and Katana lace.

David Park · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

If your feet sweat a lot, I would avoid all the neoprene Five Ten shoes (Quantum, Verdon lace and VCS).

Carl Wernhoff · · Oslo, NO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Hans Martin wrote:

Maybe some questions regarding the durability. Does anyone else have any issues with the shoes holding up? 

Mine cracked all the way in about an inch long crack after two and a half months use, climbing approx 3 times a week, inside and outside, trad and bouldering. I have sweaty feet after a couple pitches and start sliding inside the shoe sideways when trying to side step on small crimps, havent blown me off a foothold but definitley is not a good feeling. 

Except for the cracking open in the toe (just the left foot) and my sweaty feet sliding inside after a few pitches I love them. I use them for all types of climbing and definitley after having a pair of "arrowhead" five tens I now fully trust my feet, my favorite climbing has become small feet and balancing acts thanks to these shoes...

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,098

Might be my favorite shoe, have them sized 1/2 down from street. They're an awesome hard granite shoe and for me the perfect combo of sensitivity and stiffness. I've worn them on my hardest sport climbs (which aren't necessarily that hard, but..) and even on a couple all day alpine routes. I still prefer my TC Pros for all day wear, but on those climbs in particular I wanted a softer shoe for the crux pitches and I was really glad I had the quantum. Not a terrible crack shoe either.

Like the guy above me said, small feet and granite techno balancing acts are a dream with these shoes.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

For hard techy/ edgy climbs that are near vert. to a little past vert. they are FANTASTIC.

Also magazine reviews aren't worth the paper that they are printed on. 

Dr Williams · · AUSTIN, TX · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,123

When they first came out, everyone had them in the top 5 all around shoe.  Now they have dropped considerably.  I do not understand why.

I use them on granite and indoor climbing and I felt they were definitely a step up from my TC Pros.  I use the same size as my street shoes.  I climb 5.13 and boulder at V8 and they edge amazingly.  They are very comfortable.  I wear them with ultrathin socks and I do not have a problem with movement when sweating.  I have multple pairs of quantums and I bring an extra pair of socks and rotate socks and shoes after each pitch.  Though, if I am climbing multiple routes less than my limit, I will just leave them on for up to an hour or two at a time.  I feel they breath well and I do not have a problem with smell.

Rotating shoes has really helped me with longevity.  Especially when climbing in warmer weather and the hot summers in Texas (where I live).  I have resoled them several times with Flophouse as recommended by Five Ten and they come back almost the same as when they were new.  Usually I get 6 months of wear out of them before they need to be resoled.

I still use my TC Pros some on routes that I am not worried about sending but the Quantums always outperform them.  I feel I am a half a grade or a full grade better with the Quantums.

I own Genuses, Futuras, Katanas, TC Pros and Quantums fit me better and perform better on hard thin technical routes with small edges than all of them.  Durability is about the same as my TC Pros and Katanas and way better than the Genuses and Futuras.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Nice shoes. I bought 'em in my street shoes size. Comfortable (I have climbed several long trad routes in them without any need to unlace 'em when belaying). Precise (I have climbed up to 7b+ = 5.12c limestone sport wearing 'em). Heel is not the best, although I was able to put occasional heel hooks here and there.

Quantums are #1 "universal" shoes in my book. For hard sport I prefer Scarpa Instinct, for bouldering - Scarpa Stix, when travelling to climb both trad and sport - Quantums.

Ethan Ayer · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

I just got a pair of Quantums for the 5.10 sale in my street size shoe.  I tried them on and they still feel too tight for mutlipitch trad.  Do people size these up a 1/2 size?  I have the Anazasi VCS in Street size which fit fine but tight enough to take off after a half hour.  However, after a resole, they feel more broken in.

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle and Eastrevy · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 311

I feel the Quantums break in faster and get softer than the Anasazi VCS so street shoe may be the right size for you in the long run. I have two pairs of Quantums - in street shoe and 1/2 size down. I can wear the street shoe sized ones for about 3-4 pitches before wanting to take off. The eyelets are almost touching now in my street shoe sized pair, so I feel if I went another 1/2 up, they would be sloppy and not good for edging (but I have never tried a bigger size). My pair 1/2 down make a killer sport shoe even though I can barely get my feet into them at first.

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 45

I have a pair of Quantum lace, 1/2 down from street. Its a solid shoe and quite comfortable. Recently 5.10 had 50% off everything and I picked up a Quanyum VCS at 1 full size down from street. I had tried them on before at the same sizing as the lace and they felt larger and a bit sloppy. The VCS at 1 full size down feels appropriate. 

Ethan Ayer · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Doug Chism wrote: I have a pair of Quantum lace, 1/2 down from street. Its a solid shoe and quite comfortable. Recently 5.10 had 50% off everything and I picked up a Quanyum VCS at 1 full size down from street. I had tried them on before at the same sizing as the lace and they felt larger and a bit sloppy. The VCS at 1 full size down feels appropriate. 

I took advantage of the same sale.  I'm going half size up from street. Interested in the VCS someday for performance routes, but I can't cram my feet in shoes like other people.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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