RACK ENVY

Yeah, Queen's is one of the few straight splitters at the Lake.  Of course, if you have a rack and your partner has a rack, you don't ever really NEED doubles...

Ted Pinson wrote:

Plenty.  Most routes CAN be safely led with just a set of nuts and Hexes, but having the option of doubles is definitely nice, especially if you're a scardy-cat who likes to sew things up.  Nothing worse than using up all your gear on the route and having nothing left for your anchor...

I wouldn't say I'm a scaredy-cat, necessarily, but I probably will sew it up anyway, if for no other reason than practicing placements on lead.

I also have 2 ropes, and kids that climb, so it's nice to have the option to set a TR anchor for the kids, and climb another line nearby, without making too big of a dent in my rack.

Ted Pinson wrote:

Yeah, Queen's is one of the few straight splitters at the Lake.  Of course, if you have a rack and your partner has a rack, you don't ever really NEED doubles...

My partner is my wife, so I guess you could say half of this is hers.   

Oh, no judgement.  This is coming from the guy who used up so much gear leading Double Overhang (5.4) he ended up having to do a hanging belay because he didn't have the gear to build above the ledge, lol.

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

My partner is my wife, so I guess you could say half of this is hers.   

^ same issue I have! I have single rack from .1 to 3 and make good use of nuts/tricams/hexes when climbing with wife. 

It is so nice when climb with others and combine gear for cam doubles. It is a luxury though, so yet to pull the trigger on more cams for myself...pull the trigger.. ba dum tss

Ted Pinson wrote:

Oh, no judgement.  This is coming from the guy who used up so much gear leading Double Overhang (5.4) he ended up having to do a hanging belay because he didn't have the gear to build above the ledge, lol.

We've all been there... We put up a lead, 60', I think 17 placements only took 2 and 1/2 hours.  We, because of the three lead changes.  I think most of the problem revolved around putting a cam into every good hand jam.  Forged friends didn't help much either.

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I've previously used trad gear for setting TR anchors at Devil's Lake, WI. Took an anchor building course, and have set ~20 trad anchors for TR. (Roughly 60+ pro placements, but never on lead.) Planning to transition to trad lead this year, and a few of the climbs I'm targeting need doubles on various sizes, so I got had a little fun when Backcountry had a sale on BD cams earlier this year.   

That's funny because I sold off my second set of cams for the single reason that most of the trad climbing I do is at the Lake.  I couldn't justify the double rack as a mediocre midwest climber.  I know I'll be kicking myself for it later now that I'm back out west but I wanted the cam/gas money to get out here!  Good on you for getting into leading at the Lake this season: it's an absolute blast once it stops being terrifying.  Best of luck!

This small New York apartment houses my moderate rack. Heading to Red Rock Canyon for the week! Snapped the gear spread while I was at it.

So I've noticed a lot of people lay out their racks on a tarp.  I've seen people do this in the parking lot, presumably divvying up what they need to bring up to the crag.  Any recommendations?  I've also considered using one in lieu of a rope bag, since I usually bring a pack big enough to fit it or strap it to the back anyways.

Ted Pinson wrote:

So I've noticed a lot of people lay out their racks on a tarp.  I've seen people do this in the parking lot, presumably divvying up what they need to bring up to the crag.  Any recommendations?  I've also considered using one in lieu of a rope bag, since I usually bring a pack big enough to fit it or strap it to the back anyways.

Are you just looking for rope tarp recommendations? I have a trango cord trapper that's cool; it's a large tarp that has a strap around it so you can burrito your rope into it and cinch it shut. (i.e. it can act as a compact no-frills rope bag, and packs well.)

The Petzl Kab is nice, it's burly, has a large removeable tarp, is stiff and can act like a rope bucket, and has gear loops if you want to use it as a light crag bag. (Messenger style, though, no backpack shoulder straps.) It's a bit bulky, though, if you want to stuff it into a different pack. (Which is why I like that the tarp is removeable.)

I also have the Metolius Ropemaster HC, which is a nice packable burrito bag with a large tarp, but the tarp is permanently attached.

Ted Pinson wrote:

So I've noticed a lot of people lay out their racks on a tarp.  I've seen people do this in the parking lot, presumably divvying up what they need to bring up to the crag.  Any recommendations?  I've also considered using one in lieu of a rope bag, since I usually bring a pack big enough to fit it or strap it to the back anyways.

I just use an old tent footprint. Super light and packable. Rolls up smaller than a water bottle. 

Trango tarp is bees knees for when you're sick of using your oversized tent footprint

So you're saying I should use the footprint first? ;)

Yeah, I'm just starting to get over rope-bags in general.  Useful for making other people carry your rope, but not for much else.  I'd rather trade the bag  attached to a tarp for more surface area.

edit: the Trango thing looks perfect!  Thanks guys!

apoet wrote:

Damn dude, that's a lot of screamers. You aid a lot of choss?

The left half of my gear ;)

And now the right....

couldnt resist :D

NorCalNomad wrote: This reminds me I need to update the pictures I keep of my rack for insurance purposes.

I post more back envy of myself.

So here's my collection. Most is from late 90s, early 2000s. Not nearly the camfest that a lot of you are displaying. Yes, I'm uber jealous of those massive sets. I'm especially jealous of the new cams. Note the stems on my camalots. Old school but still doing the job. Not displaying ropes, shoes, webbing, aid ladders, harnesses, atcs, etc. ran out of room on the bed. The mass of biners and tied short slings reflects my intro to aid that got sidetracked with my divorce and subsequent hiatus from climbing. Back now and getting stronger, but not richer. Saving my pennies for more toys...

For so long I had just enough of anything to be able to lead a multi-pitch route with built stances, that it took me a while to realize it was time to start selecting a subset for my outings. Last trip I took all my TCUs, about a third of my tri-cams, a set each of BD stoppers and DMM wall nuts plus a 'biner of tiny chalks and a single small that has served me very well over the years. I threw in three large hexes on cord just in case, but left them on the ground. After so long of scrounging, it is nice to have to be selective in consideration of weight.