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Jplotz
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Apr 7, 2017
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Cashmere, WA
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 1,335
MorganH wrote:
I actually do usually climb at index. My vantage catch phrase is, "wow, this is terrifying. I would never lead on gear here. ROCK!! I'm never coming back." You forgot to add, "Then it rains the following weekend from Squamish to Yosemite, and you're right back at Vantage screaming ROCK!!"
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Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
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Apr 7, 2017
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Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 10
Lalp wrote:Stopped through there last weekend to check it out and was shocked at the amount of humans there. Is it always such a zoo? I thought its geography would save it as it's fairly displaced from any major urban area. Seemed like the ease of access and relatively low commitment required make it so popular. It's getting worse, fast. So is Index. Vantage used to be empty in the dead of winter and only crowded spring and fall. Luckily, it's all weekend warriors so weekdays are calm and if you can climb 5.10 on gear there are lots of good routes that are usually empty. I gripe a little about going out there too but always have a blast.
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Aaron Nash
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Apr 10, 2017
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North Bend, WA
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 212
slim wrote:ha ha so true. usually you hear that line right after listening to a long winded monologue about how they are leading ice climbing trips, and how they are famous for putting their first piece in really, really high, and how they are famous for having their pieces sooooo far apart, and how they are famous for only placing stoppers,...... .....and right before they place their first piece at chest level, make one step up, yell "TAAKKKEEE!!!!!!".. "oh god, i don't know why i am taking, this isn't even hard..."..... "TAAAKKKEEEE"........, ......., ........, .......... ....and after a long time when they get to the anchor they don't know how to use 2 quickdraws.... "well, it's just soooo much different than making an ice climbing anchor...." on a 5.8..... no joke - you will literally see this all day there. it is quite fascinating. For real. This shit cracks me up at that crag. Nothing says spring in the NW like the screeches of "TAAKKKEEE" bouncing around Echo Basin.
I always end up enjoying climbing at vantage; mostly for the sunshine and dry climbing mid-winter, but the the people watching is always fun/cringeworthy.
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Kyle Elliott
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Apr 16, 2017
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Granite falls
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 1,798
Jimmy Sledd wrote:I have a few Eastern Washington grumpy old man complaints. Between the hordes of climbers sporting brand-new 'draws and the concert crowds, Vantage really gets hammered. I feel like it's worse by the day--I haven't been out there since 2015 and I'm afraid of how crowded it'll be when I get back. At least DNR finally put in a toilet. Tieton has gotten "re-discovered" too, 5 years ago there was never anyone out there. Luckily I think the lack of bolts and abundance of rattlesnakes should keep the crowds down. This time of year Tieton is like a rattler petting zoo. In one afternoon a few years ago I had a snake set up residence in my rope bag and another curl up on top of a cam I'd placed as a directional. I drove highway 12 yesterday afternoon, royal columns and the bend were getting properly raped, vantage style. Moon rocks was deserted tho, probably from the almost compete lack of sub 5.10
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Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
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Apr 16, 2017
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Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 10
I drove highway 12 yesterday afternoon, royal columns and the bend were getting properly raped, vantage style. Moon rocks was deserted tho, probably from the almost compete lack of sub 5.10
The way things change... I spent a whole week out there in May 2014 and saw maybe a dozen people the whole time.
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Khoi
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Apr 17, 2017
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Kyle Elliott wrote:I drove highway 12 yesterday afternoon, royal columns and the bend were getting properly raped, vantage style. Moon rocks was deserted tho, probably from the almost compete lack of sub 5.10 Were you able to see if any of the campsites were open yet? Especially the Hause Creek camp site?
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Kyle Elliott
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Apr 17, 2017
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Granite falls
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 1,798
No sorry, I did not notice.
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Khoi
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Apr 18, 2017
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Kyle Elliott wrote:No sorry, I did not notice. Any chance you'll be driving down that highway again before the end of the month?
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Kyle Elliott
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Apr 18, 2017
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Granite falls
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 1,798
Khoi wrote:Any chance you'll be driving down that highway again before the end of the month? It's pretty unlikely, but if I do I'll try and scope the campgrounds out.
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Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
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Apr 18, 2017
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Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 10
Khoi wrote:Any chance you'll be driving down that highway again before the end of the month? Why don't you call the USFS or look at their website? Looks like Hause Creek has been having some sewer issues and is closed until "further notice." But it also says they will re-open in May. So who knows. Windy Point opens May 25.
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Jplotz
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Apr 18, 2017
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Cashmere, WA
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 1,335
Jimmy Sledd wrote:Why don't you call the USFS or look at their website? Because that's a lot of work and it's so much easier to ask someone else to do it for you. The mindset also Applies to not bothering to bring a guidebook to the crag when you have so many other people there to take care of you. But I digress...
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BigNobody
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Apr 18, 2017
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all over, mostly Utah
· Joined Nov 2013
· Points: 10
Patrick Nygren wrote:Two weeks ago, I was climbing at Millennium Wall and had orange peels hit me in the face...when I got up a little higher I called them out and got this response "Oh sorry man, didn't know anyone was down there." First of all, what? Second, it's still garbage, whether or not it hits someone in the face. Same trip, I saw a rock the size of a laptop come down and hit a dog - luckily it bounced first, otherwise that dog would be dead. Unclear if the rock was "trundled" or just accidentally got dislodged. I would pay a few bucks to watch you get hit with orange peels in the face.
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Scott McMahon
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Apr 18, 2017
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
This is making it's rounds on the 14ers.com FB page. It's Pacific Peak's North Couloir. Apparently a well known guy for various reasons some obviously bad. Don't be a dick and endanger people.
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Khoi
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Apr 19, 2017
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Jimmy Sledd wrote:Why don't you call the USFS or look at their website? Looks like Hause Creek has been having some sewer issues and is closed until "further notice." But it also says they will re-open in May. So who knows. Windy Point opens May 25. I am aware of all that as I have been to their website: https://www.recreation.gov/camping/hause-creek-campground/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=74018 The reason why I am asking is that it has been my experience in the past that sometimes that campsite actually "opens" earlier than the stated date. In 2014 the Hause Creek campsite wasn't due to be open until May. But we were interested in climbing there on our way back from Indian Creek, so we dropped by on April 25. Fortunately for us, the couple who live in their RV and are in charge of that campsite just arrived that day and opened it! So I am hoping that we can get the same stroke of luck again since I am planning on being there May 1 - May 3.
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Ol Leatherhands
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Apr 19, 2017
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Olympia, WA
· Joined Feb 2017
· Points: 0
I counted the cars at vantage this past weekend and there were 114 friday night in case nobody got the memo.
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Jplotz
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Apr 19, 2017
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Cashmere, WA
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 1,335
GoatSlayer wrote:I counted the cars at vantage this past weekend and there were 114 friday night in case nobody got the memo. I wonder if that's about average for spring??
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Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
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Apr 19, 2017
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Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 10
There are some good free sites in the moon rocks area if you can find them.
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TravisJBurke
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Apr 19, 2017
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Beratzhausen, DEU
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 65
Nick Drake wrote:Knowing the OP, without even asking I am sure that a conversation occurred. While we are on the subject of stupid stuff at vantage, just because you see a crack around a hold doesn't mean you need to throw giant chalk Xs everywhere. Start of boschido was littered with them on holds that I couldn't get to budge with all my muscle. Same goes to writing the grade of a route on the rock with chalk. Don't shit at the base of chimneys either. God damnit get off my lawn. Hahaha! Isn't trundling at Vantage just basically climbing while waiting for the rock to just explode around you? Still doesn't beat the Vantage "serious" climber we met who nearly killed one of our party "new routing" in the choss...you missed that one!
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Nick Drake
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Apr 20, 2017
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
TravisJBurke wrote:Hahaha! Isn't trundling at Vantage just basically climbing while waiting for the rock to just explode around you? Still doesn't beat the Vantage "serious" climber we met who nearly killed one of our party "new routing" in the choss...you missed that one! I've been twice this year. Launched a baseball block I though was a hold at my belayer. Second trip I felt a foot was slippery.......no that was an edge blowing off under my foot. 2 for 2 on the climbing trundle! I'm still glad I missed that guy, cut the rope, no one will blame you!
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Oren Cowlishaw
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Apr 20, 2017
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WA
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 230
Hmm.. y'all love talking shit about the place but still make the few hours drive to climb there?? What would the Coulee' be like if nobody had ever decided to go "new routing" there? You probably wouldn't be climbing there then! Cut my rope, oh please. See you fuckers at the choss factory.
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