Moving to southern NH, looking for rocks to climb.

Farley Area... and Rumney aren't too far

john strand wrote: You will run into a guy named Base at some point, everyone does.

Met a climber named Cord once... thought that one was an odd one, Base is up there too though.

"Base"=Paul Boissenault--long time New Hampshire climber--not as active these days, unfortunately.

To the OP--I'm a western Mass. local and will be glad to show you around Farley, Rose, and Mormon. There is a thread on here from a few months ago that discusses Monadnock climbing. There was (quite a few years ago) a one page 'guide' to Monadnock climbing that was available at the Park HQ--don't know if it is still available. As others have said don't expect the Cottonwood Canyons in southern New England but what we do have is often still very worthwhile.

Alan Rubin wrote:... but what we do have is often still very worthwhile.

Very true, Farley is a gem.

There isn't much climbing on Monadnock. The Black Precipice is the tallest cliff on the Mtn. The rest is really bouldering on ledges. I have found some nice climbs over the years but you need to know your way around. I live in the Keene area and would be willing to show you whats what.

Hello,
I have been climbing in the monadnock area since 1990 and yes, as Bill Stated, I have identified/climbed hundreds of routes in SW NH. I am always interested in sharing my knowledge as well as meeting new people to climb with. I live in Keene. two 0 nine - seven six 1 eight.

Hewe's Hill/Swanzey and Tippin Rock are one in the same. Not too many people go there despite a fair amount of decent climbing. So you would be unlikely to run into anyone. There are some bouldering problems there. You will have to hunt and peck a bit to find them. Look for cleaned swathes of rock, herd trails and maybe some trace of chalk. Most are not on the hiking trail. Or get lucky and run into Rob.

Years ago I scouted Monadnock pretty thoroughly for climbing. Didn't find much other than some scattered boulder problems that were a hump to get to. Rob claims there is some stuff there so it may be worth pursuing to see for yourself.

No after work scene at Crow Hill anymore. Blue Angel, Intertwine and Thin Line are all good for a top rope solo workout however. Lines just left of Blue Angel, just right of Intertwine and just right of Thin Line offer harder variations. You would have to redirect the ropes for the Thin Line variation.

I see that Rob has checked in. You are all set!

Geez Rob, been awhile. Git'n out much?

Alan Rubin wrote:"Base"=Paul Boissenault--long time New Hampshire climber--not as active these days, unfortunately.

Ah nick name...

When I first met the illustrious gentleman, he had already done an f/a on Mt hooker in the Winds as well as PO Wall on El Cap...that was a long time ago ! Close to 40 years now !

When I'm visiting my family in Jaffrey I usually head to Pway, it's a little far maybe for an after work session but on days off/weekends it's pretty primo. If you head into the EMS in Peterborough there are a few people who might know some good local stuff. Or even better the Monadnock Climbers Association.

According to Todd Swain's website the Southern NH ice guide is fall 2017, and rock is spring 2018. But who knows.

toddswain.com/index_Page601…

Worth mentioning is the guide AL Rubin wrote for Rose Ledge. As far as I know this is the only Western MA guide in print and you can. Probably still get a copy through the WMCC. Nice cliff. What it lacks in height it more than makes up in quality.

As others have mentioned Crow Hill, Farley and Hewe's Hill are all very good. I am local to Leominster and know a few other areas hidden around here. There is some stuff on private land in Ashby and Royalston MA too if you know where to look. Black Precipice and Billings Fold on Monadnock offer some short routes but your time.is much better spent seeking out Farley. On weekdays you are likely to run into some of the awesome locals who are great about showing you around. It's a bit of a shit show on the weekends though....