Moving to southern NH, looking for rocks to climb.

So I'm moving to Peterborough/Jaffery area in southern New Hampshire in a few weeks. MP makes the climbing around there look a little scarce... I've heard rumor of some climbing right around Mt. Monadnock? Anyone have any leads on that? How about any other climbing in the immediate area (no matter how shitty)?

I know there is stuff in NY and northern NH but that doesn't do me a ton of good for an after-work jaunt.

1h from Farley, MA.

While I'm sure yer gonna get tightened up on local spots, northwest Mass is a bit of a near by gold mine. Check out west mass climbers coalition -
m.facebook.com/WesternMassC…

jdejace wrote:1h from Farley, MA.

And under 2 hours to Rumney. All things that one could easily figure out from Mountain Project and Google Maps.

Find some locals and go check out Rabbits Hollow in Swanzey I think... You'll need a local guide to find it, but it has some of the best single pitch granite climbing in the area.... No bolts, no anchors...

Also, need some more locals... but theres a good amount of bouldering scattered throughout the woods in that area.

Your best bet are gym sessions at Evo in Concord though...

Crow Hill in the Leominster State Forest for trad.

scott fuzz wrote:While I'm sure yer gonna get tightened up on local spots, northwest Mass is a bit of a near by gold mine. Check out west mass climbers coalition - m.facebook.com/WesternMassC…

I'll look into it. Gracias.

zswan wrote: And under 2 hours to Rumney. All things that one could easily figure out from Mountain Project and Google Maps.

Rumney is one of those ones that doesn't do me any good on a work day...

climberish wrote:Find some locals and go check out Rabbits Hollow in Swanzey I think... You'll need a local guide to find it, but it has some of the best single pitch granite climbing in the area.... No bolts, no anchors...

No bolts, no anchors doesn't bother me a bit :-). Just my style. Any suggestions on the right local to hit up?

climberish wrote:Also, need some more locals... but theres a good amount of bouldering scattered throughout the woods in that area.

Bouldering is less my style... But may have to become more my style.

climberish wrote:Your best bet are gym sessions at Evo in Concord though...

Little far for a gym session. Over an hour from where I'll be at.

Seamus Morgan wrote:Crow Hill in the Leominster State Forest for trad.

This looks perfect! Pretty close to where I'll be, pretty average-climber friendly grades, and mostly trad.

Thanks all! Keep it coming!

Maybe you can build a woody and invite all your new potential friends over.

climberish wrote:Find some locals and go check out Rabbits Hollow in Swanzey I think... You'll need a local guide to find it, but it has some of the best single pitch granite climbing in the area.... No bolts, no anchors...

Don't know about Rabbits Hollow but there is some really pretty decent climbing at Tippin Rock. Park at hay field across from Chebaco Kennel on Warmac Road. Hike out on the trail past Tippin Rock and you will find the climbing. You will also likely, if you go out a couple of times, run into Rob. He will show you every nook and cranny of the cliffs. Overall quality of the climbing may not be quite Crow Hill's but there is more of it.

Farley is likely to become your go-to spot. Loads of excellent climbing, sport and trad, with a great group of people. It is a crag with a really excellent vibe. On most days it usually has a decent group of after work/after class climbers.

Hewe's Hill / Swanzey
Marlow
N Pack Monadnock
Mt Monadnock
Keene Cut

First two require short hike (15 mins), second two longer (couple miles) and Keene Cut basically a few minutes.

Farley from a drive perspective / climb perspective is doable.

Mark NH wrote:Hewe's Hill / Swanzey Marlow N Pack Monadnock Mt Monadnock Keene Cut First two require short hike (15 mins), second two longer (couple miles) and Keene Cut basically a few minutes. Farley from a drive perspective / climb perspective is doable.

I'm really interested in the Monadnock stuff. Is it on MP and I'm just dumb and can't find it? Any info on it?

Mt. Monadnock is really close to where I'll be living (Rindge, right on hubbard pond, about half a mile from cathedral of the pines). Farley looks doable for an evening. Leominster looks great.

Any good guidebooks for Western Mass, Southern NH? I'm always happy to buy a good guidebook.

JK- wrote: Any good guidebooks for Western Mass

None exist.

Welcome to New England! We have tiny rocks and horrible weather, but also awesome fall foliage, quaint covered bridges, and we're friendlier than our reputation would suggest. Living here encourages you to branch out and try everything in climbing so that you can take advantage of whatever the weather offers.

Check out the Monadnock Climbers' Association page on Facebook - I'm sure you can find folks there to ask about climbing on Monadnock and other stuff in the area. I've heard the bouldering at Fall Mountain is pretty good.

I have heard Rock Rimmon in Manchester is surprisingly good.

Put Rose Ledge on your radar. It's comparable in quality to Crow Hill, has more routes, and I'd guess about the same distance from you. Someone already mentioned Farley - the routes there can't be published by request from private landowners, but friendly locals can always help you out. Mormon Hollow is another great gneiss crag in the same area to check out.

The Falcon guide Rock Climbing New England by Stewart Green is pretty incomplete but it would be a good start. It covers a few Southern NH areas, Crow, and Rose. A dedicated guide to Southern NH has supposedly been in the works for almost a decade by Todd Swain.

You guys have given me a ton of info to start looking with. Thank you. I'll probably be posting again looking for partners/someone to show me around the area again in a few weeks once I'm moved and settled.

Thank you all!

Depending on how far you're willing to drive, check out neclimbs.com for information about the climbing around Conway. Also, the New Hampshire Chapter of the AMC has a very active climbing group.

Gini Kramer wrote:Depending on how far you're willing to drive, check out neclimbs.com for information about the climbing around Conway. Also, the New Hampshire Chapter of the AMC has a very active climbing group.

On weekends/days off: very.
On workdays: less.

JK- wrote: On weekends/days off: very. On workdays: less.

I see you're coming from SLC, where you have those awesome canyons just outside of town. Nothing that good is located anywhere near the major population centers in the NE [Gunks would come closest, but Poughkeepsie isn't really a big city/area]. Expect to drive a bit for the best areas. Bouldering might be a better option for the weekdays?

Trail run, core exercises, and maybe some bouldering during the week.

Then go big on weekends.

You may be disappointed with the offerings right around you.

Contact Gunkswest through MP,, maybe his guidebook will be out some day. Marlow is Ok, hewe's pretty good,,,Monadnock does have climbing, black Cliff and a few others. Info is spotty at best.

is joe English still open ?

You will run into a guy named Base at some point, everyone does. he's a really good guy and knows SoNH really well.

If you get lucky, the old Saball (marie & Dave) guide is an asset and hard to come by