ACR Anchor Method?

Brian L. wrote:Haha, yeah I saw those posts and thought it was really interesting data, so copied it into Notepad. Have you done similar testing with different materials/included angle? Does it change the slip point?

The included angle of the belay will change the slip angle as the wrap angle around the karabiner increases or decreases but the friction in the material is probably more important and most important of all is if you introduce a complete wrap around the sliding element (karabiner or ring) where it all goes really wrong.
No, I didn´t bother to test it for other materials!

if you're bored one day and feel like doing more testing, i'd be interested to see how two things affect the sliding angle:
1 the removal of the wrap around the ring/biner as seen in a quad rather than sliding x or ACR

2 the slipperyness of the anchor material like dyneema instead of nylon or smaller diameter cord/webbing.

on a slight tangent, i'd also be interested to see how something with different material sheath and core like edelrids new webbing behaves

As I said I didn´t bother testing more. The combinations of material, karabiner wrap angle and belay included angle is almost limitless and except in fairly uncommon circumstances the load angle doesn´t in fact change as gravity only works downwards. If there is an intermediate protection point which alters the direction of pull from straight down the climber knows this and can adjust the belay themselves.
Tech Web is just nylon for our purposes, the Dyneema is inside the sheath.