Abelman's Gorge - Management Plan Comments
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Hey everyone, we need your help!! Abelman's Gorge(Rock Springs) is currently under review in the Tier 3 Management Plan as part of the larger Master Planning process in the state of Wisconsin. As of right now Abelman's Gorge does not allow rock climbing of any type in accordance with State Natural Area guidelines. That said, Abelman's has a rich history of climbing in the past and is one of 7 SNA's that the WCA has identified as being worthy of an exception, similar to exceptions that are already in place at Devil's Lake and Rib Mountain. |
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Thanks for putting the word out Steve! Gonna jump right on this! |
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Sandwiched in between the quarries is some beautiful, darkly colored quartzite. The DLFA put up some routes there, and the CMC (including Pete C.) have been back there since the 1970s. At least two people have written mini-guides to its walls. |
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I posted a thread asking about developments in this area a few months ago. Confirming the "over 50 years of climbing" I can say that I was a member of 2 groups from the Hoofers who climbed in this area in the '60s after earlier 'reconnaissance'--my best memory is that these visits were in the spring of '67. We climbed routes on both sides of the road. We didn't see any signs of previous climbing activity but there is plenty of rock and we weren't looking too hard. Good place. |
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Found Al's comment from last October: |
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The "2 pitches" aspect. My memory---noting that it was 50 years ago--is that we traversed in from the left as the lower part of the line looked too hard for us, belayed at the end of the traverse, then headed up--and ropes were shorter--120', 11mm, Goldline during my years at Wisconsin. We were also training for a route on Devil's Tower, so likely the hanging belay was part of the 'deal'. Still my memory is that the wall was the tallest quartzite face we ran into in Wisconsin. I'd love to see copies of the mini-guides that you mentioned up thread. |
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I have "on the DL" the drytooling/mixed and ice guide to the Baraboo region, but noting on the actual rock climbing there. I didn't even know there was something written for the rock climbing there. I would love to see it. |
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Thanks for bringing our attention to this. In the email I wrote, I also made mention of the conservation work (graffiti/trash cleanups etc...) that climbers currently do at the lake. |
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Did my part for the folks back home. Keep us posted on how things develop! |
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Posted Chicagoland FB Group |
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facebook.com/events/8572073…
Boulders Climbing gym in Madison will be hosting a letter writing evening this wednesday 6-8pm. The WCA will be supplying postcards and stamps, all you have to do is come to the gym that night, get your climb on and in between pitches write a short message to the DNR on why you believe climbing should be legal again at the gorge. |
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That's fn dope^ I wish either adventure rocks would this especially with how many people climb at the Milwaukee location. My buddy showed me this last night. I'll send out something short and sweet!!! Doesn't hurt right |
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CRAG-list-KILLA wrote:That's fn dope^ I wish either adventure rocks would this especially with how many people climb at the Milwaukee location. My buddy showed me this last night. I'll send out something short and sweet!!! Doesn't hurt rightYou asked and you got your wish! We'll be doing a second letter writing night at the downtown Milwaukee Adventure Rock this coming Friday, March 17th. The WCA will be there from 6-8 with postcards so make sure you come by! facebook.com/events/1876804… |
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Awesome see you down there!! |
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The rock in this photo is where most of the rock climbing took place when it was legally open. The formation on the bottom right is called The Fin and an excellent landmark to grab your eye and then explore from there. South of this shot there is the remains of a quarry, long ago shut down. To the North, there really isn't any climbing as the rock is too short or broken. |
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Calling all AROCK MILWAUKEE CLIMBERS BE THERE OR BE SQUARE!!!!! |
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What's the word on this project? Any news?? |
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Well, we (the WCA) met with the DNR two weeks ago, in fact. Haven't gotten around to writing up notes yet. |
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I’d also like to thank everyone who took part in the letter/email campaign last year. You guys moved the needle, after 20 years of stasis. Should have said this a long time ago. |
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Cool. Thanks for the update! |
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Hey Doug! Thanks for the hard work. I would be forever stoked to go climbing at Gibraltar. Plenty of times on the drive up to DLSP I've taken a friend or two to gawk at the cliffs from County J |