Best Pack for Multi-pitch/What do you look for?

Hey,

I'm hoping to break in to multi-pitch and was wondering what pack everyone recommended for taking on those routes. Definitely want to be able to carry enough water, but I'm worried that my crag pack would be too much weight/bulk at 50L.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have an earlier version of this that always worked fine for me for the price. rei.com/product/892074/rei-… Comes in a 22 liter version too. If you think you'll be hauling the pack then the creek 20 is a good option. BD Bullet and Speed are options too. blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

Petzl "Bug" is comfortable, big enough for water, shoes, food and headlamps w/o being too big. It also has rope hauling loops as well as clip to loops for the cluster f/in a hurry pack and run.

If there's a considerable approach I use a compressible, strippable ~30L pack e.g. BD Speed 30, but still something with an actual frame. If it's basically multi-pitch cragging, I prefer to rack up at the car and just have the follower carry a ~15L pack with water/snacks/layers.

I fucked up a bunch of packs til I started using the metolius smaller size haul bag- it's actually called the express. Given, I've watched for deals, I know those packs there are a few different version on the theme, from a few companies But the Fish Atom Smasher deluxe is the most pack for the money. The stallion of the breed, among geldings, of copies, a pack that will out last you., have it as a base camp bag for crest climbs or three day assaults, use an ensolite pad, around the inside to protect from pointy things.it will be the best pack you ever owned. The addition of the top. Thus the Delux is critical, it allows for food water and under suff ing. When filled it's a mini pig the hood cover, - domes out- allowing for a rope & helmet You will get tired of its boring -indestructible- nature and move on, but it will be the best pack you ever owned.

Fish does make the best haul bag! But he asked for a muli-pitch bag. 1) That he would ask 2) Multi-pitch... I took that as maybe 9 pitches in Red Rock or some such. We need more detailed info. here. But you're right, that haul bag is the bomb!

It has become an obsession !
I owned one
But have gone with a Black Black Diamond, stone 45 "haul bag" the color is my fault,
the rest of the bag is their fault it is criminally weak in my independent 1st hand opinion.
I could blow through the thing in a weekend of scrambling in the gullies
of Arkansas & Kentucky.

It carries full weight well but that's with a ful frame.
The atom smasher is super versatile,
if you are thinking about the near water tight issues ?
Have 2 Orv3 grommets placed as "ports "

( fish is gonna scale me)
He may not do anything but - holes for drainage?,
ports system for drink/bladder ( a dream?)
Fish was overflowing ith scrap, might add a patch pocket? ,
(Removable bolt kit bag w/ sewn in 'tube' re-enforce'd to hold a hmR & tag line,)
(top left?)
(thats to much Dream on)

In a small pack that I'l be climbing with, I like a bunch of
organization options inside and out (key hook, pockets)

a small tear-drop shape, 20L seems to small?
But 23-6! & I always take to much !
"rides high "
but stiill has waist and sternum straps,
a place for stuff a ,nut pick, gear loops
A climbing with pack needs to be super burlly

Dashiell Hammett wrote:Hey, I'm hoping to break in to multi-pitch and was wondering what pack everyone recommended for taking on those routes. Definitely want to be able to carry enough water, but I'm worried that my crag pack would be too much weight/bulk at 50L.

50L is definitely too big. Even 40 e.g. the Fish Atom Smasher, is too big if you just need a few hours worth of supplies with you. Go 20L or less. Climbing mag did a semi-review of a few of these types of backs about a year ago IIRC.

Personally, I like something that rides high (doesn't black the chalk bag or rear gear loops) and it super light. Super burly bags are good if you're going to haul them, but a Bullet-type pack will stay on your back and you might forget it's there.

Thanks for all the info so far.

I'm looking at some of the moderate, entry multi-pitch climbs in Yosemite Valley this summer, Joshua Tree, and maybe Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks being my closest regular crags.

There's talk of attempting Royal Arches with my mentor, and he's brought up the prospect of Snake Dike as well, but we're early days in terms of planning.

I'm sure that I get the smal fast and light day out pack.
But
The 45-55 litre pack is a medium to large size, capable of carrying all your cragging gear, ropes, hardware, etc
(more if needed.)
The size is perfect where you might not be carrying all that much up the route,
but having a bit of room inside the pack makes it easier to find you spare jacket or whatever,
and you don't need to tie everything on to the outside on the approach, which is nice.
But given if that is over kill Lowe Alpine gear has always worked.
There's a few small companies custom stuff. Tufa,, , and Mystery ranch,
? I am forgetting them all because I was given Deuter Speed -lite 15 , they make a smaller 10L and a better 20L but I've been forced to get used to the minimal.

I don't like having stuff (shoes, water, jacket) hanging on my harness for longer climbs. Whether you climb with a small pack or not is personal preference. No right or wrong.

But if you're going to carry a pack, I agree with what John said, keep it at 20-22, max.

If I'm coming back to the base at the end of the climb, I'll carry everything to the base of the climb in a larger, 40L bag, and climb with the 20L.

Check out Tufa Climbing Mochilla Pack. It has been really good on multis for me when I want a pack.

Link to thread about pack

+1 for the BD Bullet
I have used and abused mine and it is holding up great, you can fit a surprising amount of stuff in that thing also! I can fit a light single rack inside the pack no problem.

John Wilder wrote:If you're going to take a pack, it should be 20l tops, and should be as low profile as you can find and ride high enough so as not to hinder access to your harness. Few packs I've used accomplish this (the 20l Cilogear worksack and the BD Bullet are the two I use when I wear a pack). That said, anything under grade 4 (say at least 10-12 pitches)- it's better if you can just clip a water bottle and stuff a couple of bars in your pocket and climb faster. It's been my experience that if you can pack the kitchen sink, you will, and the more stuff you bring, the slower you go.

I agree with much of what John said, but I think 20L is a little strict depending on how long the hike is, how big your rack is, what season it is etc. For example, if I am doing a longish approach, and it might be cold, then I will pack a little bit of water, a shell, a nano, and the rack. All that in a pack usually requires something in the 20-30 liter category. With how light some of the packs are these days, getting a 28 L versus a 15 L pack doesn't really add up to much weight difference, and I'm willing to exchange the minor amount of extra weight/bulk so that I can carry the rack comfortably. That said, I still like a super light pack that is in the same class of pack as John mentioned, just a tiny bit bigger.

I like the Mtn. Hardwear Hueco 20 and 28. They are bare bones, but they nevertheless have some nice features (e.g. lightweight, stashable rope attachment system on the outside of the top of the pack). I tried on a BD Speed Zip 24 and it was pretty nice also, but the thing I like about the two Mtn. Hardwear packs is that they sit high on my back so the bottom of the pack doesn't interfere with me using my chalk bag in the normal position (high riding also lets me use my a$$ and lower back easier in chimneys etc.)

Another +1 for the BD bullet 16 and BD speed 24 zip. Both are great small packs, but have different applications.

Michael Schneider wrote:I'm sure that I get the smal fast and light day out pack. But The 45-55 litre pack is a medium to large size, capable of carrying all your cragging gear, ropes, hardware, etc (more if needed.) The size is perfect where you might not be carrying all that much up the route

Michael you have to start packing more efficiently or stop bringing so much crap. I use a speed 40 for routes with a bivy that take snow/ice gear in addition to the rack/rope. I never have shit dangling on the outside.

Climbing in a pack that big just sucks. I'll echo what others said, small is where it's at.

If it's a route I'll be walking/rappelling back to the base of I use a flash 18. Super light, very flexible, nearly disappears on you, and it's cheap. I throw it in the base of a bag with a real frame on the hike in.

If I'm not returning to the base of the route I'll use a speed 22. For summer alpine I can typically fit everything inside the pack still with care. On the north ridge of Stuart this year (grade IV climb, long approach/hike out) I managed to fit harness, 60m half rope, belay device etc, thin puffy wind shirt, water filter, water bottle, helmet, food, and the little misc stuff all in the pack. Had to strap crampons on the outside. An ever so slightly larger pack would be easier to pack.

http://www.patagonia.com/product/linked-pack-16-liters/48050.html

I have been very happy with my Patagonia Linked 16(linked above, ha...). The 16L size is more than sufficient for a full day on the rock (used it on a recent NIAD as our only pack), and after the climb is done I have always been able to stuff the rack and harness into the pack for the walk off. It rides high and out of the way of the harness, has burly fabric, and handles being overstuffed well. My favorite feature is probably the dual loops at the top of the pack; they make it easy to hang off the anchor at the belay, and inspire confidence when hauling the pack or dangling it off the harness in chimneys. The REI Flash is definitely lighter, and I used it as a follower pack for a long time, but the extra structure and durability of the Linked are worth the trade-off, IMO. Happy climbing!
Xan

+1 for the Patagonia Linked. I bought one recently (on the recommendation of someone on this site) and I love it.

It holds a 2.5L hydration system, single trad rack, sport rack, and harness in the main pocket. "Outer" pocket has first aid kit, windbreaker, headlamp. Has loops on the outside to clip shoes, helmet, and other ancillary stuff AND I strap my rope to the top of it.

Only taken it out 3 times so I can't speak to the durability, but it's a pretty damn great pack for 16L. Worth the extra money.

My only complaint is that the gear loops are just slightly too small for a wire biner to fit in and out of comfortably -- I ran some rings through those and now clip into the rings instead of the loop directly. Small workaround.

beau Griffith wrote:+1 for the Patagonia Linked. I bought one recently (on the recommendation of someone on this site) and I love it. It holds a 2.5L hydration system, single trad rack, sport rack, and harness in the main pocket. "Outer" pocket has first aid kit, windbreaker, headlamp. Has loops on the outside to clip shoes, helmet, and other ancillary stuff AND I strap my rope to the top of it. Only taken it out 3 times so I can't speak to the durability, but it's a pretty damn great pack for 16L. Worth the extra money. My only complaint is that the gear loops are just slightly too small for a wire biner to fit in and out of comfortably -- I ran some rings through those and now clip into the rings instead of the loop directly. Small workaround.

Love mine as well, this'll be my second season with mine.

The only thing I'll add to this is after jamming my full rack in there I seem to have worn out the fabric inside the pack between the front packet and the main compartment. I'm assuming a cam or something broke through. Not a big deal, I can tape it - but it's something that people might want to pay attention to.

speedzip 24.

. I love this thing. It rides nice and high,and has a bunch of nice features for multi-pitch.