hypertrophy not important?

Hmm...the results don't seem to fit the conclusions, as the rock prodigy repeaters showed bigger gains than the max hang group (~32% vs ~28%).

Ted Pinson wrote:Hmm...the results don't seem to fit the conclusions, as the rock prodigy repeaters showed bigger gains than the max hang group (~32% vs ~28%).

No, those are two different studies, and they cannot be compared like that. The 32% in the RCTM "study" was self reported, and it included a broad swath of climbers at various abilities. It may include 5.9 climbers who saw 120% gains averaged with 5.13a climbers who saw 7% gains. It also includes other phases of the RCTM program. There is no way to know that same group wouldn't have gotten better results doing anything else.

The 28% max hang group can only be compared to the 13.9% sub-maximal repeater group in that study. That study was done in a more controlled manner and used three similar populations: 5.13a climbers. The sub-maximal group's protocol was somewhat similar to the RCTM Beginner protocol. The most interesting result to me was group 3: when they switched from max hangs to sub-max repeaters, they got weaker.

Ah, gotcha.