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North Carolina trad climbing in winter around Dec 27/28, crazy?

Original Post
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Probably a silly idea, but anyone potentially interested in a day of trad climbing around 12/27 or 12/28 if the weather looks semi-decent?

One intriguing option for me would be the Circus Wall at Moore's Wall, maybe try to do Zoo View (5.7), Air Show (5.8) and Break on Through (5.10a). But would consider other crags/areas too. Prefer not to bring my rack, but willing to do so and lead everything for experienced second who knows the area. I've never climbed south of West Virginia.

Climbed in the Gunks last Sunday in upper 30s/low 40s on a sunny day and it was really not that bad. And last year on 12/28 it looks like it got near 60 degrees over by Moore's!

I am staying with in-laws in Hartsville, South Carolina over the holidays as I do every year. 3 hour drive to Moore's but more than willing (after several days sitting around) even for a few really nice pitches over 6 hours of sun.

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 534

If I remember correctly, that area of the Moores is terribly frigid in the winter.

You're better off heading to Sauratown or Stone Mountain. Sauratown has some trad if you're itching to place gear, but it's mostly a sport crag. Stone is trad, but you won't be placing much gear there (unless you're on The Great Arch)!

Toad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

just keep an eye on wind speed.

Mike Byrnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5

Id go to the bald if I were you, great south facing cliff line with plenty of fantastic trad lines and should be warmer than some other areas. It's officially reopened as of today so don't worry about the fire. I would be more than happy to be your partner at the bald if I'm in town

Scott Phil · · NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 258

Rumbling Bald is your best bet. Stone Mountain is also great, but many people find it an acquired taste.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Moores, particularly that wall will be brutally cold then. All the other options here are much better choices. Crowders Mt. (Charlotte area) is also warm enough that time of year.

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Thanks all! OK, sounds like Moore's is out and Stone Mountain is a good option. Jake or anyone else - if you can take a weekday off the week after Christmas Day, let me know! Beer and/or dinner on me!

Or Bald. Will keep in touch with you Mike, thanks!

Kevin Shon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

Not crazy. Shortoff in the winter is great, so is Rumbling Bald - when the place isn't on fire...

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,598

Good suggestions thus far, but I'll add some detail on the styles:

Sauratown and Shortoff are both gunk-like in style, while Rumbling Bald is more technical granite-like (gneiss) climbing. Stone is as pure a slab as they come.

All are good in winter (along with a ton of stuff further west), but Shortoff can be pretty windy this time of year - so keep that in mind if you go there.

Alexander K · · The road · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 130

I'll be around then and likely itching to get out. 27th might work best. Let me know if you're interested and maybe we can work something out. Stone, Sauratown, Rumbling Bald are all appealing.

Looking forward to getting the good old NC smack down after a year in super-soft Colorado

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Thanks for the intel NBrown. Sounds like there are lots of good options.

Alexander K - Very interested in getting out and will check in with you the week before.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

Kind of shocking that no one mentioned the south face of Whitesides, which is basically a reflector oven and quite comfortable on sunny days even when the air temp is in the 20s. I've climbed there in a light fleece shirt while it was cold enough to freeze the beer in the truck in the parking lot on the north side. For that matter, sporty and I once climbed Starshine--Classic ice route on the north side--then ran around and climbed the OR on the south face in shirt sleeves for an interesting NC 'alpine' link up.

Kevin Shon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

If going to shortoff, I highly recommend Bumblebee Buttress,no matter what hard lines you'll put down, this is a full value 5.8. Mellow, but scenic and fun and near some more pressing routes of higher moderate grade - low 11s, some 10s and 9s.

Emil Briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 140
Kevin Shon wrote:If going to shortoff, I highly recommend Bumblebee Buttress,no matter what hard lines you'll put down, this is a full value 5.8. Mellow, but scenic and fun and near some more pressing routes of higher moderate grade - low 11s, some 10s and 9s.

Bumblebee Buttress is on the North Carolina Wall not Shortoff.

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

Agree with Kevin about route quality though bumblebee buttress is on the NC wall quite a hiking distance from Shortoff.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10
Kevin Shon wrote:If going to shortoff, I highly recommend Bumblebee Buttress,no matter what hard lines you'll put down, this is a full value 5.8. Mellow, but scenic and fun and near some more pressing routes of higher moderate grade - low 11s, some 10s and 9s.

One note - Bumblee Buttress is on the NC Wall and not Shortoff and has a different approach.

dave Hause · · carrboro, nc · Joined May 2013 · Points: 335

Fire Wall Moore's. I'll jug anyone's lead.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 447
"once climbed Starshine--Classic ice route on the north side--then ran around and climbed the OR on the south face in shirt sleeves for an interesting NC 'alpine' link up."

This is awesome!!

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5,925

I once ice climbed at Hogpen and then went over and bouldered at Yonah in a t-shirt.

Oh wait, that's not nearly as cool.....

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Anything south facing is gonna be good on a sunny day. Also, depending on where in SC you are, Chattanooga TN could be closer. T-wall is great around new years if it's sunny. Its warm enough to be good but cold enough to ward off the gumbies.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

All depends you could be fine outside in a t-shirt or you could be freezing cold.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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